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bio # designation?

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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 12:54 AM
  #1  
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From: socal
bio # designation?

i keep reading these posts about biodiesel with reference to things like "B20" "B100" "B99" and so on. what is the significance of these numbers?
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 01:58 AM
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I believe that is the percentage of biodiesel mixed with regular # 2 diesel. so probably for B20 it would be 20% bio and 80% #2 diesel and so on.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 03:36 AM
  #3  
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From: League City, TX
Originally Posted by LanceD
I believe that is the percentage of biodiesel mixed with regular # 2 diesel. so probably for B20 it would be 20% bio and 80% #2 diesel and so on.
Ding Ding Ding !!! We have a winner!

LanceD is correct. B20 is 20% bio-diesel mixed with 80% regular petro diesel. B100 is 100% bio-diesel, no petro diesel mixed in at all. Every other number (B1-B99) though is the ratio of bio-diesel to petro diesel.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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From: socal
that makes sense.

now for round 2.

i've been told that in order to run %100 bio it is required that you change your injector timing, is this true?
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 10:01 AM
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From: St Paul , MN.
I am not going to claim a lot of knowlage here but the centane is higher , around 50 as compaired to 40-45 for dyno oil, and I've heard that the molicues are larger for bio [ maybe larger or more holes] , so it seems to me just like racing & reloading tune for conditions.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 11:15 AM
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by jeepsuck
that makes sense.

now for round 2.

i've been told that in order to run %100 bio it is required that you change your injector timing, is this true?
No need to change the timing but if you run B100 you will have less power and won't get as good of mpgs.
Depending on the price difference between BD and #2 it may be more economical to run more of a blend. That's much of the reason B5 and B20 is more available than B100.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 11:31 AM
  #7  
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From: Montana City, Montana
Question Bio in the cold

Originally Posted by infidel
No need to change the timing but if you run B100 you will have less power and won't get as good of mpgs.
Depending on the price difference between BD and #2 it may be more economical to run more of a blend. That's much of the reason B5 and B20 is more available than B100.
The blends are also needed to run bio-diesel in the cold. Otherwise one would have to heat the Bio-d to get it flowing. To what degree do the Diesel Anti-gels work with Bio-diesel?
Ken
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 04:10 PM
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From: socal
the reason i ask about is because if I were to make bio at home it would be awesome to give big oil the shaft and run 100% BD. but if i had to run a mix it would still save me money, which is #1... right after shafting big oil
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 04:56 PM
  #9  
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From: Montana City, Montana
Thumbs up Wvo

Originally Posted by jeepsuck
the reason i ask about is because if I were to make bio at home it would be awesome to give big oil the shaft and run 100% BD. but if i had to run a mix it would still save me money, which is #1... right after shafting big oil
Jeepsuck ... Have you looked into converting to WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil)? If you are interested you can find lots of info on using it at;
http://www.frybrid.com/test.htm
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb....51&f=159605551
If you are a chemist you will enjoy Bio-diesel, I'm more mechanically minded and use WVO. Each seem to work OK, each have their draw backs. Both are worth looking into. However a word to the wise about using WVO; Filter well, de-water, and never burn cold oil, easy to do. Feel free to drop me a PM or e-mail. E-address - akghound{at}onewest.net
Ken
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