Dangousity

So here I am .. 2 weeks before another trip. Poor 2002 Diesel
My front tires are worn from the inside ridge outwards. And I mean the inner 4 inches of tires are bald and the rest of the tread is alright. If you look down the truck line, you can see the tire squatting outwards like a old dunebuggy beetle.

If you lift the truck up, I can take the tire and press on 6 and 12 and move the tire a bit, maybe a ton, probably 1-3 inches without moving the suspension. Is this balljoints and hub bearings? Am I going to get a surprise when I go to replace the Ball joints?

For ball joints I have found the Moog,
Part # K7394
Frt Susp; Upper; 4WD; w/4500 lb. Dana 60 Axle
# K7397
Frt Susp; Lower; 4WD; w/4500 lb. Dana 60 Axle,

I understand I am going to need a OTC 8031
Jeep and Truck Ball Joint Remover/Installer Set
Order No. OTC8031 to remove the ball joints correctly.

Any other items/ parts I am going to need to replace when I start to dig in? Torquefan was discussing using a bolt is a secret to breaking those hubs loose. aka 3) purchase a bolt with the same threading as the hub bolts, but an inch or 2 longer.
Anyone happen to know what size bolt, TC and grade bolt I am going to need so I can order it now?

I have read over Mr. Gadget's write up, and going to print it out and try and use it to the best of my ability, I just hate surprises, (just like this **** trip) and don't have time or the nerves atm for failures, mine or my trucks.
Any helpful hints, or part numbers or anything I will need that I will not know about until I do it would be much appreicated!!

DieselNomad

i just had the same problam, i had ball joints layng around so i changed them out.it was the hub bearing.what great practice, at least it will be easier tear down for the bearing!!!!

Nick02Ram

If you have an advance auto, or auto zone... I beleive they rent out ball joint presses if you dont want to purchase one. I'm not sure on the OTC set, but my Snap-on set was like 600 bucks.

And it sounds to me more like ball joints. I would have someone else shake down the front end while you get under it and visibly look at what is loose, or else put your finger along the side of where the ball joint is and see if you can feel it shift (just not in a way that will get it pinched).

kbailey

O'Reilly Auto usually has a ball joint tool .... it isnt the correct one for the Dana 60 but it will work. When I did mine in December I found that a press, an impact gun and a torch to be essential to the process. The mechanic helping me said, "with the proper application of heat anything is possible" and sure enough ... the dana 44 ball joint tool pushed the old ball joints out once everything was good and warm.

justme-

If you can wiggle at 6 and 12 but not 3 and 9 it's likely ball joints not bearings, if it wiggles the same at both it's more likely bearings.
Keep in mind sloppy tie rods and/or track bar will also allow a little play in the 3/9 wiggle- watch the tire on the ground as you're wiggling to see if it moves too.
Inspection station failed me for bad bearings 2 years ago and had no clue what he was doing- only wiggles 3/9 and didn't bother to see the whole front steering moving as he wiggled. Bad track bar caused it, but a bad pitman arm would as well.

lovinCTD59

I wouldnt waste your time with a balljoint press from Harbor Freight. I bent 3 of them trying to get mine out. That was after I heated them up too!

Stormin_Norman

Get an OTC press and a 3/4" breaker bar and socket for it. You will also need a sledge-o-matic .. tighten press, beat on it, tighten some more. They were the worst ball joints I've ever replaced and mine were at 70k on my on 02.

I would use Spicer ball joints, the moog are tight and drive like crap for the first 5k miles. I ended replacing all my tie rods and track bar with moog, those are working great.

dodgeguy71

Ok amatuers, here's a helpful hint. The night before you do your ball joints stick them in the freezer. Leave them there while you disassemble, when it is time to physically put in the ball joint, everything is ready. Go get them one at a time and install it immediately. Should make life alot easier, did on the one I replaced.

If you have 4x4 leave the axle nut on, you can loosen it but tighten it by hand back down to where it touches. This will keep you from beating the hub and bearing apart while trying to get the hub off. The hub assembly and axle will be pulled out as one piece, then loosen the nut and you can seperate. If you completely take off the nut you can actually seperate the hub bearing.

totalloser

Porta power hydraulic unit (hand operated pressure unit) plus short ram and weld a square frame together. More force applied than a funky screw press could ever dream of. Even if assisted by a sledge, and a lot more controllable.

Brings the press to the axlehousing since the geniuses at Dodge in their infinite wisdom decided to mount the balljoints in the housing instead of the knuckle. Brilliant pain in the butt nearly as awesome as their steering designs.

rokcrawlr510

Unfortunately it was the geniuses at AAM and not Dodge but either way.

matthopp

I am debating about doing this (or having it done) as mine are begining to wear as well (215K), looking forward to hearing how you made out!

Nick02Ram

Excellent idea, never tried it on ball joints, but it worked quite well when I had to press an electric motor armature onto a shaft.