Axle U-Joints
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Albertan
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Axle U-Joints
Does any one know how to change the drover's side axle u-joint. Mine went on me and I heard that changing them is a real PITA. Any suggestions would really help me out. Thanks in advance.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: saskatoon,sk
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have to do mine too. Picked up the u-joints yesterday. Only place I could find them was dealer @ $100.00 each. I have not done them before so I can not give you any advice. Yesterday I did spray penatrating oil on the back side of the hub. Reading the manual it sounds easy, I think the worst part is getting the hub out. There is another thread on 4x4 hub removal. If you need anything out of the manual I can get it for you.
#3
Administrator
The hub bolts on the back side take a 9/16 twelve point wrench if I rememebr right. Don't back the calipers off any more than you have to when removing them. If the ball joints are worn, this is the time to do them also. Be careful not to damage the threads on the ball joints if you're not going to replace them. Be careful sliding the axles out of and into the axle housing so as not to cut the axle seals in the housing. They are the real pain if you damage one of those. Check the caliper sliding surfaces and clean them while you got them off too along with the caliper sliding pins. I would take the hub mounting bolts out one at a time once you get them back in and Loctite them too unless you replace them with new ones. We chose the new ones option on my sons 94 when we did it.
Above all, make sure you have the front axle very securely blocked and supported. I speak from experience when I say I know what it looks like when one of these falls down off the jack stands. I use blocks and wood.
Above all, make sure you have the front axle very securely blocked and supported. I speak from experience when I say I know what it looks like when one of these falls down off the jack stands. I use blocks and wood.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Albertan
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by doorguy
I have to do mine too. Picked up the u-joints yesterday. Only place I could find them was dealer @ $100.00 each. I have not done them before so I can not give you any advice. Yesterday I did spray penatrating oil on the back side of the hub. Reading the manual it sounds easy, I think the worst part is getting the hub out. There is another thread on 4x4 hub removal. If you need anything out of the manual I can get it for you.
#5
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: pacific north wet
Posts: 758
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its posable to remove the caliper then take the whole shaft/hub asy out as a unit....
kind of a pita, but its quick then you just pop'm in/out i use a large c clamp..
kind of a pita, but its quick then you just pop'm in/out i use a large c clamp..
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Southern, Indiana
Posts: 5,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can get the Axle U joints from Rockauto.com for around $33 each.
The number is Precision #464 and are for all 9.25" AAM axles in the Dodge/Cummins App.
I have these installed in my truck. Perfect fit, no grinding.
Also, these are GREASABLE!!
The number is Precision #464 and are for all 9.25" AAM axles in the Dodge/Cummins App.
I have these installed in my truck. Perfect fit, no grinding.
Also, these are GREASABLE!!
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Albertan
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Central VT
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by redneck1
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/3rd_gen_u-joint/
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by redneck1
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Albertan
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Wantdiesel?
If I read this correctly, you replaced the joint without removing the hub? I've never heard of that being done before, or thought of it.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Rice Lake, WI
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How many miles are on your trucks? Just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty still, under 70,000 miles. They also said that the ball joints were all bad, which I don't think they were. But hey I got all new ball joint and axles joints on both sides of the truck for the $100 deductable.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Displaced Albertan
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder
How many miles are on your trucks? Just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty still, under 70,000 miles. They also said that the ball joints were all bad, which I don't think they were. But hey I got all new ball joint and axles joints on both sides of the truck for the $100 deductable.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ottawa ontario
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder
How many miles are on your trucks? Just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty still, under 70,000 miles. They also said that the ball joints were all bad, which I don't think they were. But hey I got all new ball joint and axles joints on both sides of the truck for the $100 deductable.
You got a deal, the ball joints aren't covered under the powertrain warranty Unless you have a special extented warranty of course.
They just said they were bad, are you sure they changed them?
rob
#14
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
Has anyone else tried this with out pulling the hub off??
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Modena,New York
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I didnt do mine that way I pulled the hub but I do remember someone else said they were able to do it with a ball joint/ ujoint press without removing the hub