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Axle U-Joints

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Old 09-23-2005, 10:47 PM
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Axle U-Joints

Does any one know how to change the drover's side axle u-joint. Mine went on me and I heard that changing them is a real PITA. Any suggestions would really help me out. Thanks in advance.
Old 09-24-2005, 09:54 AM
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I have to do mine too. Picked up the u-joints yesterday. Only place I could find them was dealer @ $100.00 each. I have not done them before so I can not give you any advice. Yesterday I did spray penatrating oil on the back side of the hub. Reading the manual it sounds easy, I think the worst part is getting the hub out. There is another thread on 4x4 hub removal. If you need anything out of the manual I can get it for you.
Old 09-24-2005, 10:30 AM
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The hub bolts on the back side take a 9/16 twelve point wrench if I rememebr right. Don't back the calipers off any more than you have to when removing them. If the ball joints are worn, this is the time to do them also. Be careful not to damage the threads on the ball joints if you're not going to replace them. Be careful sliding the axles out of and into the axle housing so as not to cut the axle seals in the housing. They are the real pain if you damage one of those. Check the caliper sliding surfaces and clean them while you got them off too along with the caliper sliding pins. I would take the hub mounting bolts out one at a time once you get them back in and Loctite them too unless you replace them with new ones. We chose the new ones option on my sons 94 when we did it.
Above all, make sure you have the front axle very securely blocked and supported. I speak from experience when I say I know what it looks like when one of these falls down off the jack stands. I use blocks and wood.
Old 09-24-2005, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by doorguy
I have to do mine too. Picked up the u-joints yesterday. Only place I could find them was dealer @ $100.00 each. I have not done them before so I can not give you any advice. Yesterday I did spray penatrating oil on the back side of the hub. Reading the manual it sounds easy, I think the worst part is getting the hub out. There is another thread on 4x4 hub removal. If you need anything out of the manual I can get it for you.
They were $101 in Ottawa, but there was only one so I had to order the other. These things are not greased from the factory? Almost dry in there.
Old 09-24-2005, 07:29 PM
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its posable to remove the caliper then take the whole shaft/hub asy out as a unit....
kind of a pita, but its quick then you just pop'm in/out i use a large c clamp..
Old 09-24-2005, 11:31 PM
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You can get the Axle U joints from Rockauto.com for around $33 each.
The number is Precision #464 and are for all 9.25" AAM axles in the Dodge/Cummins App.

I have these installed in my truck. Perfect fit, no grinding.

Also, these are GREASABLE!!
Old 09-26-2005, 07:00 AM
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OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
Old 09-26-2005, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by redneck1
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
This may or may not help:
http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/3rd_gen_u-joint/
Old 09-27-2005, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by redneck1
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
If I read this correctly, you replaced the joint without removing the hub? I've never heard of that being done before, or thought of it.
Old 09-27-2005, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Wantdiesel?
If I read this correctly, you replaced the joint without removing the hub? I've never heard of that being done before, or thought of it.
Yeah. Once the tie rod end is out all that I did was remove the 4 clips from the Ujoint cups. Then I used a brass hammer to help the cups come out of their holes. Once the ujoint without the cups is left there is a position that the wheel can be turned to where the old ujoint will come out (without forcing it) and a new one will go in. It actually worked quite well. I was suprised at how mechanic friendly this vehicle really is.
Old 09-27-2005, 10:46 AM
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How many miles are on your trucks? Just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty still, under 70,000 miles. They also said that the ball joints were all bad, which I don't think they were. But hey I got all new ball joint and axles joints on both sides of the truck for the $100 deductable.
Old 09-27-2005, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder
How many miles are on your trucks? Just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty still, under 70,000 miles. They also said that the ball joints were all bad, which I don't think they were. But hey I got all new ball joint and axles joints on both sides of the truck for the $100 deductable.
Mine is 75,000 miles. I checked the ball joints and i figure I may get another 12,000 miles tops.
Old 09-27-2005, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder
How many miles are on your trucks? Just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty still, under 70,000 miles. They also said that the ball joints were all bad, which I don't think they were. But hey I got all new ball joint and axles joints on both sides of the truck for the $100 deductable.

You got a deal, the ball joints aren't covered under the powertrain warranty Unless you have a special extented warranty of course.
They just said they were bad, are you sure they changed them?
rob
Old 04-24-2009, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by redneck1
OK I changed the darn thing yeasterday. I did not have to remove anything. Just lifted the truck, lowered the steering linkage with the tierod end and the wheel can be turned in such a way that the U-joint will come out no problem. The old one was dead and very dry inside. But it is great to know that there are aftermarket U-joints available. At $100 a pop this could get expensive. Thanks again.
Bringing this back from the dead

Has anyone else tried this with out pulling the hub off??
Old 04-25-2009, 09:08 AM
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I didnt do mine that way I pulled the hub but I do remember someone else said they were able to do it with a ball joint/ ujoint press without removing the hub


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