Lil Dog

Was wanting some confirmation on the collector flange before the turbo. I would like to drill there for the pyro and was getting some conflicting data. Some say there is still the divider web in the collector and other say its not. Before I get out the drill this weekend, could someone confirm for me? Any other favourite locations? I did the 97 about 5 years ago and it was simple..

rip 112

Well theoretically the hotter cylinders are the back ones so offsetting the tap towards the back of the collector instead of dead center would probably be wise anyways to get a more adequate reading. Just my .02.

Mike Holmen

So how did you make out Dog? So where did you put the pyro at?

Have you measured any stock running egt temps and temps after the mods.

Which gauges did you go with? I'm just going with the edge so I can make everything look stock when it goes in for repairs. My last truck was red flagged for gauges and a shinny exhaust tip

You do the exhaust fixes yet? You could just put in a 4in straight pipe and a bung for the ox sensor. Thats the cheapest home fix going.

Lil Dog

Gauges are in.. I should probably get the camera out.

Overhead mount, EV2 Gauges. Pyro in the manifold near cylinder #3 as that was the most direct drilling location.

EGT's are very reasonable loaded. Cruise at 800, WOT I get near 1200. REGEN 1350-1400.

Exhaust mods are in the works. Just talked to MDKRam last night on getting our parts together.

Mike Holmen

Couldn't you just cut a 3/8in plate (cut a hole in the middle) for the mount off the hot down pipe and put in a 4in straight piece. Weld in an O2 bung and you have a DPF delete pipe for around $30-40. Would you need the sims using the smarty or you can just leave them unplugged. I'm trying hard not to spend money on the new truck, but you know the bug, some days I want to go crazy but then I look at the lack of money in my bank account. 1200 deg's makes for a pretty driver.

I have a few extra 4/5in exhaust systems just laying around and I could almost just hack one together without any effort. The old used exhaust systems look awful, but once they are under the truck, so who gonna see it.

Lil Dog

Exactly... MDKram has access to shop equipment to make a good set of flanges that won't warp. Then we were going to get some 4" stick and some band clamps. Custom cut and weld to fit.

With the Smarty, unplug all the sensors and just leave them in the old pipe and tape up the connectors. I want to keep the stock appearance for giggles. The 97 is the mod truck.

Mike Holmen

Ya I want to do the <keep it simple stupid> for abit. I just want to get rid of that emission junk stuff. After that it would be a programmer and maybe some methanol spray. I just 550km on a tank of fuel pulling my RV this weekend. Man I, sold on it. I used to get 380-400km. The saving in fuel will pay for the mods. The warranty, is junk anyways, I've owned enough Dodgies to know that one. The only thing that I care about is the motor, the rest is pretty much throw away.

I even ran the truck on cruise control for most of the day towing my RV.

mega-engr

I'd like to see pictures of your gauges and mount as this is the set-up I'm looking to go with... I got my delete pipe still sitting in the garage ready to go in. Don't need the O2 bung though so I'll probably put a bolt in it and leave the sensor in the stock exhaust so it can just plug back in when needed.

4wheeler nut

I drilled the right side of the manifold for the Pyro that came with the Edge. Had to take off tire, and inner fender to get a direct on line up with the drill. I heared there was a diverter in the middle so I went with the right side. The EGR Cooler if I am not mistaken is in the way for any easy access.

Blake Clark

I put mine right where Edge recommended, right angle drill and a little patience and nothing was removed to drill it, However, it was a PITA....

Lil Dog

When I get a few minutes here I will get out the camera for you guys. I drilled the pyro more where it was recommended on the instructions at Genos.

Note to self... If doing it again, buy a throw-away right angle drill adapter. Saw them on sale today for like $35... Would have made the drilling alot easier.

Mike Holmen

Dog, we are gonna have to dyno the new ride? Maybe once I get my new ride, we have to line them up.

You remember anyone last year put up any big numbers with these new rides. I thought everyone was around the 300-350rwhp area at one of our local events. A wee bit slower than the old stuff.

Anybody have an idea how much ponies that a stock tranny is good for?

Lil Dog

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From what Marco says.. about 60hp/120ftlbs over stock. I have read of guys doing better than that with different tuners, but the S-67 is way more aggressive on the torque side and eats the TC... I am hoping for 350 at the wheels and then when the goodies become reasonably priced, upgrade.

Mike Holmen

I saw that there are a few vendors offering aftermarket TC and valve bodies for the RE68. ATS sells a performance built RE68, but no billet stuff yet. I can budget for that stuff down the road, once I have the truck paided for. At least thats the plan.

Do the 6.7L have low rail fuel pressure issue like the 5.9L?

4wheeler nut

Not if you have a MP-8. Love mine and in the process of getting a boost fooler to co-inside. Learing that the mp-8 affects the 5.9 different then the 6.7L. I didn't like drilling the hole for the Pyro but glad I did in the End.