vr1967

I am going to look at a few 2006 Megacab 2500s next week, and was wondering if anyone can give me pointers on problem areas to look for?

Both are 5.9/6spd trucks SLT 4wd, one with 115K and one with 80k.

I'm not familiar with this gen of truck and hope some of you will help a "newbie" to them.

Thanks,

Virgil

luke03cr

Seeing that there both close to 100k mark then thats about rite for injectors to need replacing, make sure it starts good when hot, as that is an injector going bad indicator. Check over ur interior good, i.e. hvac controls as almost ALL of them have issues with not blowing air out of certain vents. Check all window swithes as these are common. They may need ball joints by that time as well. Try and get a maintainence history report, and as soon as u take ownership change the oil and replace the fuel filter. Check for leaks around motor like water pump as these are common to leak but easy to change. Make sure the clutch grabs and holds well in a hard pull. Other then that keep up with the oil and fuel filter changes and enjoy ur new cummins for years to come.

banyon

I would go for the one with lower miles if you can because then you would have 20,000 miles of factory warranty on injectors. Luke03cr has some good points but I want to add the front hubs. Jack it up & check any slack in the hubs.

jhenson

Do the key trick and check for any codes. If any come up write them down and come back here to find out what they mean. The window switches was a good point, make sure the other 3 doors switches work as the master switch can prevent them from doing so. Long starts when warm was another key point. Other than that just check the fluids and make sure the front-end doesn't have any slop in it. Find a harsh road and get it up to speed and make sure the ever present "Death Wobble" doesn't rear it's ugly head.

Other than that.......enjoy your new to you truck!!!

vr1967

Thanks for the information. Sorry for the late reply as I have been travelling.
One question, what is the key trick? How do you do it to get the codes?

papaduck

The key trick is turn the key to on, do not start, then off, then on, then off, then on and leave it on (3 times on). The codes if any will show in the odometer. Any codes will start with a P and have 4 digits. They will only show for a few seconds so be prepared to write them down. It will say done if there are no codes and will say done at the end if any codes.

Also check the engine for blowby. With the engine idleing, take the oil fill cap off and place it upside down on the hole. If it blows off, (not vibrate off) walk away from the truck and do not look back. If there is any sign that a pressure box or retuner has been on the truck it could be haveing injector problems down the road. Injectors can last much longer than 100k miles if the truck has been maintained and has had very clean fuel, but a bad injector can destroy and do major damage if it fails open if not caught in time.

The first mod that you might consider is to add additional fuel filtration and water seperation. There is lots to read about this subject on this forum.

Grit Dog

I've got essentially the same truck with 95k mi on it.
The only issues I've had (bought it with 10k on it) were the clutch, but I knew that was goin to happen with a programmer on it. Those trucks should have a new clutch by now or they will need one soon.
Steering box got messed up, fluke I think, the shuttle valve went out, so only power in one direction ($100 part at Napa).
#4 injector line blew out, common problem, $50 or less part, easy fix.
I've been lucky with no HVAC blend door isuues or any other problems to speak of at all.
Oh and mine's needed new ball joints for the last 40k miles according to the mech that did an alignment. They are out of spec on caster, but the truck drives fine and doesn't chew up tires.
100k mi is about the time to think of U joints, unit bearings, front end parts like ball joints, tie rods, etc, but I don't feel like my truck has any immennet problems coming up at 100k.
While the lower miles is tempting, I'd go for the one that's been better cared for if there's a difference.

vr1967

Thanks for everyone's input. I ended up buying the one with higher miles. Owner seemed more honest (low miles owner's story changed a few times) I'm sure I will be aggravating everyone with questions as I fix the little stuff it needs.
Thanks again.

jhenson

Hopefully nothing will need fixing but if the need arises, that's what we're here for. Congrats on your "new to you "truck.

vr1967

Well, of courseI can't leave anything alone. Found some slack in front end, So ordered wheel hubs (ds has 1/4" of slack) and some slack in one tie rod, so order the 8.5 upgrade, as it looks like it has never been changed. Only Ball joints I can get local are Raybestos serrated ones. Not sure I want to use them or get Moog somewhere (I see they have mixed reviews) Also ordered a steering box brace. Seems like alot for a truck that drives straight and no death wobble, but when I have to go to work, I don't want to worry about it.
Anyone use the Raybestos ball joints? Opinions? I read alot on the Carli ones, but for an everyday driver, are they worth it? Plus they seem back ordered, and I would like to get it dependable this weekend.
Thanks
Virgil

jhenson

TireClub.com is a vendor here. They offer the XRF balljoints that many of us use and very few have had problems with. Myself, I like them quite well. Lots of folks bash the Moog balljoints but I got well over a 100k miles out of mine before they puked so it's personal preference on your part and how much you're willing to spend.