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Lift Kit on top of Leveling Kit

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Old 05-30-2012, 11:40 PM
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Lift Kit on top of Leveling Kit

So,
This is my first post on these forums, so I'm a little embarrassed to say that I know little to nothing about diesels or their upgrades. I've always owned a Jeep, so adding to my vehicles has always been something that I do. To make a change, I just got back from my second tour in Iraq and as soon as I got home I bought myself a 2006 Dodge 2500. It really is true when they say "Once you've bought a diesel, you will never buy anything else." I love this truck. However, I'm in the middle of spending wads of cash adding to it, and I bought wheels and tires just a little too big for the truck. I get rubbing (especially when I make right hand turns.) I've already installed the leveling kit for the front, so I'm wondering, if I buy a lift kit, do I need to buy a large enough one to compensate for the loss of the leveling kit, OR can I keep the leveling kit on there and just add a lift to it? I don't want much of a lift(I've always had horrible mileage on my Jeep cause of the lift on that thing, so I want something I can drive around without burning my wallet.) just enough to stop the rubbing so my tires will last longer. Thank you in advance for the help!
Old 05-31-2012, 07:13 AM
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Hi and welcome,
You have several options. Most folks find that they can fit 35's with just a leveling kit. There are companies with pretty much any size spring spacer you would like. If you're only getting a little tire rub, you could always try spacers that are 1" taller. To answer your question - yes. If the lift kit lifts the front end with new springs, then you can put the spacer on top of the new spring for the extra height. However, lift companies sell their kits with "built in" leveling. Typically the front gets lifted 2" higher than the rear. If you order a 4" kit, you'll typically get 4" over stock coils for the front and 2" blocks for the rear. If you want to stack your 2" spacers with a 4" kit, then I would talk to the company and ask them to sell you blocks in the back that are 2" taller than what is originally included in the kit. I hope I'm making sense!! Basically, just keep in mind that you need to coordinate how much lift you do in the front with how much lift you do in the back. The only issue I can think of would be steering and suspension geometry. I wouldn't go over 4" total up front with the factory control arms, and that is already pushing it in my opinion. Your axle will be "tilted" too far forward, giving you an undesirable caster angle. Not to mention it will bring your front axle farther back which doesn't help your rubbing issue. If you go over 4", then I would recommend checking into some adjustable control arms so you can re-center your axle and keep your steering geometry at good angles. I hope this helps!
Old 05-31-2012, 10:20 AM
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That makes perfect sense. I wasn't going to go 4" unless I had to remove the leveling kit. If I can just snag a 1" to get the rubbing to stop, then that was my plan! Thank you very much for the help.
Old 05-31-2012, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sgtdiesel
That makes perfect sense. I wasn't going to go 4" unless I had to remove the leveling kit. If I can just snag a 1" to get the rubbing to stop, then that was my plan! Thank you very much for the help.
As you lift the truck, the front axle begins to move to one side because of the track bar. The track bar runs paralell to the axle. One end attaches to the axle housing and the other to the frame.
Chances are, lifting the truck 1 more inch with a leveling kit will make it rub even worse. A well designed lift will have a different or adjustable track bar.
I have a leveling kit on mine with 315/70/17s on stock wheels. Mine rubs slightly with the steering wheel at full lock, so I just try to avoid that.
Make sure the wheels you bought have the proper backspacing if yours rubs worse that a little.
Old 05-31-2012, 10:23 PM
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So, would getting a 1 inch lift kit hurt me in the long run? I'm running 305 x 65 x 18 and my tires do have an offset, which I assume contributes to the rubbing. The rubbing sounds worse than "just a little" which is why I want to get it fixed. I had the wheels professionally installed, so I "assume" they were put on properly. I'd rather lift it less, than more, so I'm just looking into my options. I don't want a 1 inch kit to hurt me later on. So, I turn to you guys for help.
Old 06-01-2012, 08:15 AM
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What size leveling kit do you have? In my experience, 2" usually clears up to 35's on these trucks. You can't really just add a 1" spacer to an existing leveling kit - you would have to remove your current spacers and install some that are 1" taller. Snodog also makes a good point about the track bar. All the links in the steering and suspension are set to locate your axle in a certain position at stock height. As you lift the truck, the track bar pulls the axle to the left. Also, the control arms pull the axle rearward. There are plenty of aftermarket solutions for re-centering the axle, but that starts to get really pricey. An adjustable track bar is a great upgrade for your suspension, though. There are also adjustable control arms that allow you to locate your axle further forward. With all this in considerations, including your budget, you have to decide what route you want to take. I know it's not the "right" way to do it, but it's very very common to just throw in a 2-3" leveling kit and be done with it!
Old 06-01-2012, 08:47 AM
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First off where is it rubbing? I assume on the back of the fender maybe?
Old 06-01-2012, 11:10 AM
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get some thuren control arms they say u can clear 37's with them
Old 06-01-2012, 03:27 PM
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I have a 2" leveling kit on my truck and i run 315s with eagle alloys with no problem at all. A $50 set of 2" spacers will do u just fine with those 305s
Old 06-01-2012, 11:14 PM
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So the 2 inch spacers would solve it? I have SpyderTrax spacers on my Jeep and I like them a lot. But, the wheels on my truck already have an offset. I don't want my truck to look like a vato machine with the wheels half a mile outside the frame.
Old 06-01-2012, 11:18 PM
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Well, I was just looking at those control arms... If I got them, are they stand-alone? Something that "should" solve the issue without me having to get anything else along with it? I eventually will buy all the upgrades I possibly can, but for now I just want to get rid of the rubbing.
Old 06-02-2012, 07:05 AM
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Where do the tires rub?

If they are rubbing the control arms when turning sharp, lifting it another inch will only make it worse.
Unless you lift it with a complete lift kit including a new track bar and track bar or track bar mount.
Old 06-04-2012, 08:37 PM
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The tires are rubbing on the plastic underneath the wheel well that protects the undercarriage from the debris from the tires. I want to install Bushwacker pocket flares, but I don't want to do so until I can rid the truck of this rubbing.
Old 06-05-2012, 09:44 AM
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I have the same pocket flares on mine. 2'' or 3'' in spacers should do you fine. u should measure the fender to tire distace of the rear on each side, and then measure the front. Then that will tell you how much your front is sagging then u can get the right size spacer to level it out and help fix the rub. And the way those perticuler fender flares stick out on the bottom you will get a little more rubbing then you do now.
Old 06-05-2012, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by luke03cr
I have the same pocket flares on mine. 2'' or 3'' in spacers should do you fine.
Could you post a picture of your truck now with the flares and spacers so I can see what it looks like?


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