Don't know where you can get fleas from, but I know where you can pick up a few chiggers

~Rob

 

I can spare a few flea's....well cat and dog ones at least...

I was talking about my T-case seal at a local shop here and he suggested replacing a bushing at the same time as he said that is some of the reasons the seal starts to leak...said it was not hard....I got to do mine...so ill report back when i do it.....

 

surprised no elction talk popped up here, several obama supporters here in NM

 

Yep, your new state helped give him the keys to the whitehouse.


I can't keep up with all the threads in the political forum......much less talk (cry) about it here...

..

 

All the fun you can imagian here:

http://www.all-politics.net/

EDIT: What the Deuce? I guess they changed it to an all gun site....nevermind....haha.....

 

We're trying not to get kicked off the site for being rude.

 

Either i had bad batts or these Optima Yellow tops i just put in are freaking awesome! I started my truck for the first time after putting them in (Wife been driving the rig as of late) and it was like it was almost ticked off i tured the key...i mean it JUMPED to life! I guess 1400 CCA's make a big differance...i was honestly suprised! I highly recomend......

 

I had a 91 Cummins that you couldn't get off the starter soon enough. And that was with just one battery. One of the many advantages of a VE pump.

 

You think maybe they were tired??
Didn't you tell me you were still running your factory batteries...... after 6 years??

RJ

 

Well went out to do a long awaited retorque on the head today...
First bolt... was crazy hard to break free! whole stud came out with the nut... Bottom of the stud was nasty rusty.. all wiped off easily so the rust is in the block not the stud.

I put of engine assembly graphite/moly lube on the stud ran it down the hole a couple of times and cleaned it out some, lubed it up again and torqued it down.

Pulled another stud and while not as bad same thing... Needless to say running out of day light quick, will try again when I have an afternoon to devote, going to pick up a bottom tap and run it down each hole a couple times with some lube and clean them out really good.

Trying to think how water ended up in these holes.. I know when I pulled the head water went all over and filled the holes up, I thought I got it all out but I guess not. (vac out with straw and then compressed air sat for a week)

Oh well not worried just a PITA! a 2 hour stud retorque is going to take quite a bit longer now...

 

Interesting! My nuts came off fairly easily, after 5 yrs. Getting studs out was the hard part!
You said "sat for a week".... so maybe just condensation? I remember you bottom tapped....creating heat ... resulting in condensation also, maybe???
I watched Bobby put my studs in.... used a lot more lube than I would have. Don't know if that's good or bad but he has a lot more experience so...?
Just random thoughts.

Did you check to see if holding at 125 ft-lbs first?

RJ

 

Who know what the deal was... condensation is definitely possible given the time of year when I did it...

I checked one and it broke at about 130# but static pressure is always going to be harder to break

Not concerned just going to take longer to clean it all out! May actually find some ARP lube instead of my assembly lube... eh maybe not!

 

If they all break at 130.... why not just leave them?? I would, but you tend to be more OC than I. (which I thought was not possible)

RJ

 

Because breaking at 130# really means nothing. It takes a considerable greater pressure to overcome the static load on the stud especially dry no lube..

So just because it breaks at 130# dry doesn't really mean the stud is torqued to 130# maybe 100# maybe 90#... who knows

 

I understand it does not mean 130#...but if all are same (break at 130) and were set originally at 125#....says to me they are holding and have not loosened or streched. No?

RJ