TXDTR #8 Forum for the Texas chapter #8

April Meet at The Ranch

Old Jun 10, 2010 | 08:00 AM
  #256  
AggieJustin's Avatar
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From: Celina, TX
The track bar is the only thing I can think of that would shift it right if it's set up just a little too long. And for as long as the bar sat in my garage, I honestly can't tell you if I had center cuts or offsets in there. I thought I went with centers since I wasn't planning on a leveling kit.

Or is it possible that the 3rd gen bars may be the same length, but the mounting points are slightly different? I defer to the experts on this one.

EDIT: Just put the tape measure and level on it. The widest part of the sidewall on the driver's tire, is directly below the lip of the fender. The widest part of the passenger sidewall is 1" outside the lip of the fender. Just enough that you can see the difference when looking down the side of the truck.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 08:06 AM
  #257  
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For as long as that bar sat in your garage... maybe it grew some!
(see my EDIT on spacers?)

1" seems ALOT! I don't remember my 2" front lift moving the body that much? Maybe. Using Mike's frame bracket?
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 09:01 AM
  #258  
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From: Celina, TX
Originally Posted by RowJ
For as long as that bar sat in your garage... maybe it grew some!
(see my EDIT on spacers?)

RJ
That's what I get for leaning it up against my bags of lawn fertilizer.

I was thinking spacers when I saw that the left front was under the fender while the rear was out just a bit. Then I walked to the passenger side and saw the difference.

And let me just say how much I hate dealer markup on parts.

Trying to get the new bumper fascia to replace my torn up one. I checked online and found the following:

Upper cover - MSRP $96.50 - My price $73.53
Lower cover - MSRP $137.00 - My price $104.01
Wheel well liner - MSRP $105.00 - My price $79.76

Total $257.30 + taxes and shipping

So I called McKinney Dodge to see what their prices were if I could avoid shipping charges.

Upper cover - $118
Lower cover - $167.90
Wheel well liner - $131.80

Total $417.70 + taxes

$160 difference? And their prices are even higher than what the website shows as MSRP.

The only good part was that they had them in stock (which was really surprising). But at the rate my projects move, I can wait on shipping for a $100+ difference.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #259  
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Additional subject! - Anyone know a good reason not to buy a good, low mileage, 2000 Jeep 4x4 Wrangler??
Never off roaded and driven les that 10,000 miles a yr.
Got a friend that wants to sell one and it seems in good shape!

RJ
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #260  
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From: Sedalia, Texas
Originally Posted by RowJ
Anyone know a good reason not to buy a 2000 Jeep 4x4 Wrangler??
Got a friend that wants to sell one and it's in good shape!

RJ
I do! If I can't have one, I don't want you to have one!
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:24 PM
  #261  
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Umm... Ur tall?? Don't remember ever fitting well in one!

Fun little suckers though!
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:25 PM
  #262  
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Originally Posted by RowJ
Sorry Justin... no trailer here!

I forgot to share my "Remote Starter" learning experience on way home from Mike's.... Sunday AM.

I woke up, as usual, with the sun...... and with the Turkeys in the East 40 (not usual). Was short on sleep and less than my usual wide awake self.
When I decided to leave I hit the remote start and began loading up 'stuff' from Charlies camper. First trip to the CTD I stuck the keys in the ignition.
A few minutes from Mikes house, going 70 mph down FM 17??, my truck dies while going around a bend in the road.
Lost power steering and brakes (after one application). No one coming in either direction and was able to glid to a safe stop in my own lane.
The good news is.... I was now fully wide awake and more than able to stay that way till I got home!

Turns out my DMI, Valet, Remote Start/Turbo Timer unit shuts down 15 min after you push the button (already knew this fact).......
and will run for that 15 min, even if you put it in gear!!! I did not know this fact.

When I had inserted the key into the ignition I did not turn the key on. After 15 min operating time... she died. Interesting scenario.... no?
Not sure that's the way it's designed to work, since mine unit does have a few other oddities - flashers don't blink when I turn it on, and I can put my truck in gear without stepping on brake pedal!
Had to splice in new section of main wiring harness (behind radiator) two yrs ago, which may have been less than a perfect install?

RJ

Umm brake should kill motor... I know cause I often forget to put key in ignition and second I hit the brake she dead...

Brake doesn't kill your truck?
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #263  
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Wow.. 1" is a big difference... I should check mine. In theory mine should be 'off' with leveling kit and no offset to the track bar
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:37 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by bnold
Umm brake should kill motor... I know cause I often forget to put key in ignition and second I hit the brake she dead...

Brake doesn't kill your truck?
If I don't put the key in the ignition...it does. Apparently key in...but not on... works fine?? (makes no sense)
It was early and I was driving slowly (tired and warming up the motor)....maybe I never hit the brakes leaving Mike's??

On the Jeep, I owned a CJ-4 for several yrs in the 70's. Loved it. Lots of head room and enough leg room to shift. Not as limber as I use to be so I better drive it around some (it's a manual). One thing I see I don't like is a SkyJacker 2" lift.
But I suspect they may work better on less than 4 ton vehicles!

RJ
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #265  
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Originally Posted by crobtex
I do! If I can't have one, I don't want you to have one!
Asked for GOOD reasons!
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #266  
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From: Red Dirt territory of TEXAS
I bled my brakes today.... so while monkeying around under that I had a look around. It appears I have a read main seal leaking.. Not dripping to the ground at this point but nice spatter on the under site of truck.... which means good rust inhibitor for my possible move up north. I am not looking forward to this one. I do not think I can tackle it. no tools, no shop.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by 03RAMBUNCTIOUS
.... which means good rust inhibitor for my possible move up north.
Memphis may seem like the north pole (to a Texas red neck) but I'm pretty sure it's still in the south!

RJ
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:51 PM
  #268  
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From: living in hotels like an underpaid rockstar!
Originally Posted by RowJ
Can't believe you converted a "grail" truck to a shortbed!
Different strokes for different folks... I guess!
No rightside pics! Where is the tailpipe?

Does look sharp...

HP/TQ ??

RJ
How many short bed 2wd Grail trucks do you know of? Only one that comes to mind is fulmer. The original long bed had a nasty dent on the passenger side so I figured that to be the perfect opportunity.

Stock hp/tq.

Only other plans are a sport bumper grille and maybe bump the timing and 3kgsk and some afc stuff. Not roughing the plate because I've already paid for one billet trans, don't feel like paying for another! Oh I do have a 5 inch exhaust laying in the bed.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by bnold
Wow.. 1" is a big difference... I should check mine. In theory mine should be 'off' with leveling kit and no offset to the track bar
After I put the left front on, I was surprised that it didn't come out from the wheel well. Then when I did the left rear, I saw it was out slightly. Didn't realize it was a full inch till I pulled out the tape and level this morning to get a measurement off the fender. If I get it centered back up, I shouldn't have any problems with rubbing as right now it only hits on a full lock left turn.

I am surprised in how much better these 305/65/17 Load Range Es ride compared to the 285/75/16 Load Range Ds I had on there. I figured it would be a little harsher since I had a shorter sidewall and stepped up in load range. But in reality, they ride a lot better than my BFGs did. Less skip over the bumps and I'm running 70 front/55 rear in them.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by AggieJustin
... I'm running 70 front/55 rear in them.
Do the chaulk test before you wear down the middle of the tread!
I may be wrong but my 315x12.5x17's won't ride flat with more than about 42psi on an empty truck. Maybe the stiffer E's will sit flatter..... but on an 8" wheel I would not think so.

And less bounce over bumps, due to less sidewall, and stiffer sidewall, makes sense. JMO

RJ
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