Where to check for level...
Where to check for level...
What place on or in the trailer is the most accurate for determining level when setting up the trailer? I go around mine with a 10" torpedo and it is all over the place. I grew up framing houses, so don't second guess my level reading
. Perhaps I should haul around a four-foot level? What is most important about a level trailer? Is it gas flow, water drain or creature comfort?
I'll be looking for replies tomorrow in my email but I can't access the site from work. FOUO!
. Perhaps I should haul around a four-foot level? What is most important about a level trailer? Is it gas flow, water drain or creature comfort? I'll be looking for replies tomorrow in my email but I can't access the site from work. FOUO!
I'll be watching this post for replies, too. Should be interesteing. This is what I did in my fiver in order to install the level on the pin box: I DID use 3 foot level. For the side to side level, I placed the level on the floor in the rear of the fiver (mine is a rear kitchen with the refrig across the back so side to side is important for my frig). For fore and aft, I placed level on the center of the bed frame box (non bedroom slide). That way, I could be sure the head of the bed is not lower than the foot. The pin box level is adjusted and set accordingly and has worked great. God luck. PCM
For me, the most important thing about getting our toy hauler level is: if it ain't level the Misses can tell and she won't be able to sleep!
Is she can't sleep, well I'm sure you can tell where this is going...... 
I use a 3 ft level inside on the floor (close to the bed).
Is she can't sleep, well I'm sure you can tell where this is going...... 
I use a 3 ft level inside on the floor (close to the bed).
I have leveled all my trailers for the level of the metal evap tray in the refrigerator. I want that level and working properly then when level I put a large /very large level on the front left of the trailer so I can use it to help hit level when backing into the campsite. Ed
As Ed indicated, the most critical spot for level is the refrigerator. That's because the evaporator pan should never be allowed to go dry. That said, modern frig's are much less sensitive to level conditions than the older ones were. Level your frig both ways, then find a convenient spot on the rig to attach a Hoppy or similar stick on level to use the rest of the time. My Dad RVed for 40 years and he always said "if you don't fall out of bed, it's level enough". I try to get it a little closer than that but don't obsess over it. As long as it feels comfortable and the doors don't swing open or closed on their own it's good enough.
Dan
Dan
Trending Topics
Good stuff there.. thanxs. I figured either the fridge or the shower would be the "tilting" point.
I think my biggest issue is that my trailer sits with the curbside about an 1" or 1 1/4" lower than the road side when it's on the axles.
I have a hard time believing the springs on the right side of the trailer are weaker than the ones on the left. Guess I had better tag along some 2x6's to park the right wheels on..
I think my biggest issue is that my trailer sits with the curbside about an 1" or 1 1/4" lower than the road side when it's on the axles.
I have a hard time believing the springs on the right side of the trailer are weaker than the ones on the left. Guess I had better tag along some 2x6's to park the right wheels on..
I had a 28' Komfort pull trailer that was always a couple of inches low on the street side. I weighed each side and found that side was over 1K heavier (on a 8K trailer) because of the slide and most appliances on that side. I bought stronger springs to install on that side but when I pulled it I found the factory had already put stronger springs, just on the wrong sides. I swapped them and it leveled out nicely.
It's not uncommon for rigs to be heavier on one side than the other.
Dan
It's not uncommon for rigs to be heavier on one side than the other.
Dan
the places i check on 5th wheel trailer for level is inside the fridge and on the flood in the kitchen the reason you need it to be fairly level is for the fridge to work right it don't have to be dead on level but fairly close
Another post for the fridge... seems right i guess.
Thanx Dana for the idea of weighing the rig. Luckily we have four calibrated scales at work that are made for rolling stock.
Now I just need to find a way to borrow them properly
FOUO!
Thanx Dana for the idea of weighing the rig. Luckily we have four calibrated scales at work that are made for rolling stock.
Now I just need to find a way to borrow them properly

FOUO!
I also positioned mine so that the fridge was level, and I found the floor was generally extremely close.
Then, while I had it level, I put a stick on level near the landing jack switch, and one for side by side on the front of the trailer.
I can back or pull forward until it is level side to side, then easily use the jack to get it level front to back.
Then, while I had it level, I put a stick on level near the landing jack switch, and one for side by side on the front of the trailer.
I can back or pull forward until it is level side to side, then easily use the jack to get it level front to back.
I found the factory had already put stronger springs,
Seems logical I guess..
My trailer is a pull behind 26' toyhauler, and I level it on the tonge in the front. Then one method I also use is I get it close then I open the bathroom door, to see which way it swings, you can also do this with the fridge, and side door. If I open any door and it stays put that good enough for me!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jmccart
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
7
Jun 14, 2008 10:29 AM
jmccart
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
4
Feb 18, 2008 10:27 AM
jmccart
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
4
Dec 21, 2007 06:00 PM




