I was just about ready yo purchase a class V hitch on line when I read the fine print. It states the following, "NOTE: Cannot be installed on trucks that already have a factory installed hitch. The factory hitch is welded to the crossmember and cannot be removed.". Is this true, or am I going to have to have a hitch dealer install my hitch?

 

Mine isn't technically "factory", but when the dealer put my Class IV on it wasn't welded to the cross member. It was a bolt on application. However, they did have to raise the bed because the hitch sits on top of the frame like a saddle.

Climb under there and look. You should be able to tell if it's welded.

 

Hoss, I can't climb under there right now. That would require me to wrench the keys from my wifes hands. Have you ever tried to take something a woman loves from her?? Trust me it ain't easy.

 

Buy a new Porsche - - red convertible. Hand her the keys. Then, whichever set you get back - - who cares.

 

Yes the factory hitch is welded to the crossmember.
I have the Reese Titan class V and the factory hitch also. The Titan bolts under the factory hitch and you have both.
The only complaint I have is with a camper on the back of a 2wd the hitch is awful close to the ground. With a 4X4 you would should not have any such issues if you use the Titan.
Randy

 

Fiver, I like the way you think. The only issue with that is I'd have to give up all my toys. Come to think of it it I'd probably have to give up the house and food too.

Moss, I will look into the Reese hitch. I was sold on the Putnam due to what I read here on another post. I could probably just use the stock one for this toy hauler as it's supposed to be about 5500 pounds dry, but I wanted to err on the safe side. I'm just renting it for the weekend to try it out.

 

isn`t the stock class IV good for 10,000 lbs?

 

Hold on just a darn minute here. Now that I fully understand what you're talking about, the factory hitch IS the cross member. The factory hitch is welded to a piece of round tubing that sits on the frame like a saddle and is bolted. This tube also supports the rear bumper. However, it CAN be removed. It is not welded to the frame. You have to loosen the bolts in the bed, raise the bed, and then unbolt and remove the hitch/crossmember). I know this because they had to do the same process in reverse when they installed my hitch at the dealer.

 

Yes....maybe. According to the manual, the Class IV is rated for 10,000 pounds "depending on vehicle equipment". What "depending on vehicle equipment" means nobody really knows.

 

Well I'm guessing this trailer will get up to about 8500 pound at the most. I figure the tongue weight is going to be around 1200 pounds based on what I've read about some of these trailers being front heavy. I think this would be a problem in the future for the stock hitch.

 

Bikinaz: You're right about the tongue weight. Usually a class IV is only good for 10,000 lb trailer and 1000 lb on the hitch. I would go with the class V, one way or another. That way you won't be nervously glancing in the mirror every time you tow, to see if the trailer is still there.

 

My factory Class IV hitch is sitting on my garage floor. It unbolted really easily when I installed my Reunel bumper with integrated 20,000# hitch. Check out the bumper photo in my gallery.

100 Proof

 

Hoss,
Glad to see you figured out what you were describing in your post.
Is your hitch a class V? I would love to have a class V hitch with a 2 1/2" reciever replace my factory hitch. I would really like having the class V sit in the same place my factory hitch is. If you have that on your truck please let me know where you got it.
Thanks Randy