Anyone know a good site for electric trailer brake info and schematics?

 

the only good, safe and true proportion trailer brake controllers were maxbrake and smartbrake. both recently went out of business, probably because of the high cost of the unit. until a china made one comes out your stuck with some cheap unsafe junk like the p3. one of my smartbrake's just failed after 8 years, I am going to make a replacement but can not believe the cost of the American parts, the Fairchild 3,000 psi sending unit is $147. your best source is etrailer.com

 

http://www.etrailer.com/

 

Thanks!

 

A link from that sites "Help Info" tab:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Keep in mind not all mfrs subscribe to that color code scheme.

These are hand around the project as well:

http://www.delcity.net/store/Trailer...Testers/p_9035

When was the last time you adjusted your brakes?

 

I'm thinkin they are out of adjustment! Getting a hook up light on my controller but not any brakes....

The controller is a tekonsha, older one....

 

Trailer brakes for the most part are not self adjusting until you get into the 8K+ category. I would start there then put put an amp meter over the wires at each of the wheels.

 

Best prices on brakes. https://www.easternmarine.com and you can buy self adjusting in just about every weight rating.

 

The self adjusting brakes on the smaller axles did not hit the market till 2010 or 2011 as I recall. so If the trailer was built prior to that it probably has non self adjusting brakes unless if your running disc's

 

No, its a 1977 Gold Star....

I cleaned up the brake components and got the adjustment done...the forward axle seems to do all the work, I'm thinking the rears are a little tired....

 

Probably so if you can round up an amp-meter, have someone engage the controller and check each line going in brakes. It is best to replace the magnets as a set,

 

^^^I'll do that! Thanks.

 

I adjust mine every year, I keep a brake spoon in the travel trailer because it's the only thing that has drum brakes on it. My flatbed has brakes on 1 axle only, I'll put the 2nd set on soon, found out it's an inexpensive upgrade. And another thumbs up for etrailer.com. As for the brake controller, my P2 has been working well since 2005.

 

You should be pulling 2.5 - 3 amp per puck - - 4 wheels, somewhere around 11 to 11.5a. As stated, checking each wheel for current pull is important after adjusting them. I certainly would be extremely critical of the electrical connections at each wheel. Amazing how much they can deteriorate with corrosion after a few years. The ammeter will help you nail down any connection problems. Also check wiring where it goes thru the backplate - - many times it will wear and start to short out.

Bob