Most of my towing has been 5th wheels but I recently agreed to a favor where I move a trailer of sound equipment and stuff to/from storage. EZ, pick it up and drive it 4 miles at 40 mph, then drop it off - return to storage later that day.

The original trailer was 7000# rated and 35' and it hitched up and towed fine. But getting all the stuff into it was a jigsaw puzzle. So... they swapped for a 9500# rated 40' box and the SAME stuff now fits with room to spare. However when I hitched up it squatted my truck at least 5".

I had a receiver with less drop so I can get the box almost level. I also have airbags so I could reduce the squat more if needed. I was going to tell them to move weight behind the axle in the future... until I read here about the risk of too LITTLE weight on the hitch. I've had well over a ton on my FW pin and did not squat like this, AND it did not unweight my front axle so much either.

The trailer does pull fine but I suspect I'm over limits on the 2" receiver and for sure the drop that is stamped 500#/5000#.

What to do?

 

Install a class 5 hitch like the Reese Titian, mine is rated for 18,000lbs/2000lbs NON WD and 18,000lbs/2500lbs WD

 

If you're hooked up to a ball hitch trailer that causes the truck to squat excessively then you need a weight distribution hitch. Even if you run airbags or Timbrens with a class V receiver hitch the weight back behind the axle is dangerously high in relation to the weight on the front axle. This will cause braking and steering issues. And trying to relieve weight off the tongue will cause a "wag the dog" issue if the trailer weight is heavier than the percentage of weight sitting on the hitch. 40' of trailer wagging around behind you is never going to be a good thing.

 

I've already told the folks I'm helping that I'd never put this rig on a highway.
Maybe in a few months I'll be able to get the storage moved from 4 miles away to just over 1 mile and back roads... so now I'm pondering if I spend the $$'s to upgrade the truck and how.

If I go from the stock receiver to a class V I find kits to add it under the stock I guess that's the way to go? Prices were all over... what should I expect to pay?

 

Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924 has pretty much everything you'd need. But you can find deals all over the place.

 

Also wouldn't hurt to spend a day playing with the load in the trailer and bathroom scales. You want to be at a 60/40 split with the load, 60% on the tounge, 40% behind the axles. WD is going to help a lot especialy with a 2500 but the 60/40 split will help the most.

 

They guys who load the trailer did do a juggle. There are basically 3 really heavy items and the original load plan had two in front of the axle and 1 on the axle. They flipped it and the two heaviest items now sit over the axles. The squat on my truck went from 5 1/2" to 4" and there is no longer any noticeable unloading of the front axle.

I've pulled it twice like this and it seems OK. I still think I'm going to put a class IV or V receiver under my factory class III since I'd hate to bust a weld and drop it all one day.

This is a great forum - the pointers were just what I needed to figure this out I think.

 

2 in front and 1 on is a mistake and should not of happened.

If you have 3 really heavy items they need to be directly over the center of the axle wheelbase. Pack other stuff such as roadies in around it.

 

I think it's better to remove the existing hitch... The class 5 hitch uses the same mounting points as the factory hitch but also extends much further forward and needs another hole drilled through the frame for the forward mount bolt, with the existing hitch gone the new hitch would sit flat to the frame, if you go over the existing hitch the forward mount would have to be shimmed. Another reason is the less drop on the hitch the more rigid and stable the hitch will be, also less overall weight.

 

Might even see if they can trade to a gooseneck trailer. 40ft is a good deal of trailer on the back of a 2500.