Towing 32' 12k 5th wheel with a 1993 w250
07-19-2014, 10:24 PM
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Towing 32' 12k 5th wheel with a 1993 w250
I towed my new trailer for the first time last weekend for a 6hr drive. I've got the mods in my signature, as well as onboard air and air bags. Truck also has an ove- under warm winch on the big front bumper, with KC lites and license plate mounted up top in front of the grill as well. IT RAN SO **** HOT. pinned on the H nearly the whole way. I felt bad doin that to my truck, but I had to get to where I was going for work. What do I need to do to the truck to get it to run cooler? Is it just delete all the big stuff up front blocking air flow? Bigger radiator? Clutch fan works. I want to truck to last me I'll do what needs to be done to make it a good rig for pulling this trailer. 12k dry.
Advice?
Sean
Advice?
Sean
07-20-2014, 08:35 AM
#2
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Mishimoto High Performance Aluminum Radiator.
My stock radiator was fully clean and functional, but would heat up some on a hard pull. It developed a leak, so I put this one in. Next day I pulled a 38' durned heavy camper for a friend down the freeway, against a 20 - 25 mph headwind at 60 to 70 mph, hot day with air running. Water temp stayed on the T-stat mark. Other temps stayed lower also. Tranny < 200°, EGT at 1100, 15 lbs boost for long periods of time.
It's one beautiful radiator for sure.
Engine cooling is the factor that takes down the factory towing rating for an automatic transmission. The transmission super-cooler isn't to take transmission temps down as much as it is to help keep the engine cool. It adds a considerable amount to the factory rating. With this radiator, I think it would do full throttle full time without overheating.
If you didn't lose any coolant, your engine loves you. They're made to work hard. A little heat, as long as it's under control is no big deal.
My stock radiator was fully clean and functional, but would heat up some on a hard pull. It developed a leak, so I put this one in. Next day I pulled a 38' durned heavy camper for a friend down the freeway, against a 20 - 25 mph headwind at 60 to 70 mph, hot day with air running. Water temp stayed on the T-stat mark. Other temps stayed lower also. Tranny < 200°, EGT at 1100, 15 lbs boost for long periods of time.
It's one beautiful radiator for sure.
Engine cooling is the factor that takes down the factory towing rating for an automatic transmission. The transmission super-cooler isn't to take transmission temps down as much as it is to help keep the engine cool. It adds a considerable amount to the factory rating. With this radiator, I think it would do full throttle full time without overheating.
If you didn't lose any coolant, your engine loves you. They're made to work hard. A little heat, as long as it's under control is no big deal.
07-20-2014, 08:35 AM
#3
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Hmmm, you sure you dont have other problems? Airflow could be one.
I pull the picture setup every summer (~12k) and have no heating issues even with the grill guard bumper up front.
I pull the picture setup every summer (~12k) and have no heating issues even with the grill guard bumper up front.
07-20-2014, 08:46 AM
#4
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In my post, hard pull is defined as heavy load and wind resistance, and long mountain grades or extreme speed on flat land, as in 65 mph or more.
Flat land at 55-60, the stock setup would stay cool all day long.
Flat land at 55-60, the stock setup would stay cool all day long.
07-20-2014, 10:03 AM
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Hard pulls up hills it was BOILING
flat land after comin down a hill, it would still read just below the "H"
So maybe there is another issue?
flat land after comin down a hill, it would still read just below the "H"
So maybe there is another issue?
07-20-2014, 11:07 AM
#6
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I run mostly flatland but we do have hills (contrary to popular belief of the prairies, lol).
I can pull that setup at 70mph on flat easily without going over 1/2 on the temp gauge (15psi+ boost).
I also pull hills (4th gear or less) and have never seen it go over 2/3rds temp gauge reading (full throttle=40psi boost).
Have you checked your t-stat lately?
Might be stuck closed.
I can pull that setup at 70mph on flat easily without going over 1/2 on the temp gauge (15psi+ boost).
I also pull hills (4th gear or less) and have never seen it go over 2/3rds temp gauge reading (full throttle=40psi boost).
Have you checked your t-stat lately?
Might be stuck closed.
07-20-2014, 12:04 PM
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I run mostly flatland but we do have hills (contrary to popular belief of the prairies, lol).
I can pull that setup at 70mph on flat easily without going over 1/2 on the temp gauge (15psi+ boost).
I also pull hills (4th gear or less) and have never seen it go over 2/3rds temp gauge reading (full throttle=40psi boost).
Have you checked your t-stat lately?
Might be stuck closed.
I can pull that setup at 70mph on flat easily without going over 1/2 on the temp gauge (15psi+ boost).
I also pull hills (4th gear or less) and have never seen it go over 2/3rds temp gauge reading (full throttle=40psi boost).
Have you checked your t-stat lately?
Might be stuck closed.
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07-20-2014, 12:26 PM
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Mishimoto High Performance Aluminum Radiator.
My stock radiator was fully clean and functional, but would heat up some on a hard pull. It developed a leak, so I put this one in. Next day I pulled a 38' durned heavy camper for a friend down the freeway, against a 20 - 25 mph headwind at 60 to 70 mph, hot day with air running. Water temp stayed on the T-stat mark. Other temps stayed lower also. Tranny < 200°, EGT at 1100, 15 lbs boost for long periods of time.
It's one beautiful radiator for sure.
Engine cooling is the factor that takes down the factory towing rating for an automatic transmission. The transmission super-cooler isn't to take transmission temps down as much as it is to help keep the engine cool. It adds a considerable amount to the factory rating. With this radiator, I think it would do full throttle full time without overheating.
If you didn't lose any coolant, your engine loves you. They're made to work hard. A little heat, as long as it's under control is no big deal.
My stock radiator was fully clean and functional, but would heat up some on a hard pull. It developed a leak, so I put this one in. Next day I pulled a 38' durned heavy camper for a friend down the freeway, against a 20 - 25 mph headwind at 60 to 70 mph, hot day with air running. Water temp stayed on the T-stat mark. Other temps stayed lower also. Tranny < 200°, EGT at 1100, 15 lbs boost for long periods of time.
It's one beautiful radiator for sure.
Engine cooling is the factor that takes down the factory towing rating for an automatic transmission. The transmission super-cooler isn't to take transmission temps down as much as it is to help keep the engine cool. It adds a considerable amount to the factory rating. With this radiator, I think it would do full throttle full time without overheating.
If you didn't lose any coolant, your engine loves you. They're made to work hard. A little heat, as long as it's under control is no big deal.
07-20-2014, 02:01 PM
#9
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An "oem spec" radiator is 2/3 of that. It actually (usually) costs less when you buy it cash and carry from a radiator shop. It also has a lifetime warranty, and I plan to run this truck a very long time.
I had to straighten a minor distortion in the radiator frame, probably caused by a penetrating deer head judging from the fact that the condensor and intercooler looked like new. The stock radiator clears by about an inch. This one clears by about 1/4 inch. In other words, in addition to being a high performance brazed unit, it uses every cubic inch of available space. It's thicker than stock, and the tanks are aluminum, and therefore radiate heat. It also has a lifetime warranty, and I plan to run this truck a very long time.
There are 3 layers of bug catchers in front of your fan. You might have to disassemble the whole thing and clean em all out. If the condenser has ever leaked, you can bet on them all being plugged up with oil and dust.
I had to straighten a minor distortion in the radiator frame, probably caused by a penetrating deer head judging from the fact that the condensor and intercooler looked like new. The stock radiator clears by about an inch. This one clears by about 1/4 inch. In other words, in addition to being a high performance brazed unit, it uses every cubic inch of available space. It's thicker than stock, and the tanks are aluminum, and therefore radiate heat. It also has a lifetime warranty, and I plan to run this truck a very long time.
There are 3 layers of bug catchers in front of your fan. You might have to disassemble the whole thing and clean em all out. If the condenser has ever leaked, you can bet on them all being plugged up with oil and dust.
07-20-2014, 04:03 PM
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An "oem spec" radiator is 2/3 of that. It actually (usually) costs less when you buy it cash and carry from a radiator shop. It also has a lifetime warranty, and I plan to run this truck a very long time.
I had to straighten a minor distortion in the radiator frame, probably caused by a penetrating deer head judging from the fact that the condensor and intercooler looked like new. The stock radiator clears by about an inch. This one clears by about 1/4 inch. In other words, in addition to being a high performance brazed unit, it uses every cubic inch of available space. It's thicker than stock, and the tanks are aluminum, and therefore radiate heat. It also has a lifetime warranty, and I plan to run this truck a very long time.
There are 3 layers of bug catchers in front of your fan. You might have to disassemble the whole thing and clean em all out. If the condenser has ever leaked, you can bet on them all being plugged up with oil and dust.
I had to straighten a minor distortion in the radiator frame, probably caused by a penetrating deer head judging from the fact that the condensor and intercooler looked like new. The stock radiator clears by about an inch. This one clears by about 1/4 inch. In other words, in addition to being a high performance brazed unit, it uses every cubic inch of available space. It's thicker than stock, and the tanks are aluminum, and therefore radiate heat. It also has a lifetime warranty, and I plan to run this truck a very long time.
There are 3 layers of bug catchers in front of your fan. You might have to disassemble the whole thing and clean em all out. If the condenser has ever leaked, you can bet on them all being plugged up with oil and dust.
If I did kooler tubz and an intercooler, would this maybe help too?
07-20-2014, 06:13 PM
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07-21-2014, 05:03 AM
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All items have 1 year warranty
On the plus side, the toughest part to getting these things out of the truck is getting the hoses off. The rest of the job is literally 3 minutes.
07-21-2014, 05:29 AM
#14
I have to agree with everyone else; a new radiator will probably solve most of your issues.
My folks used to own/run their own industrial equipment brokerage, and one of the local guys we used for radiator repair used to push rods down each tube in the core.
You wouldn't believe how much gunk came out of a radiator. After watching that, I figured it would be cheaper to replace one versus all the manual labor needed to "fix" a radiator.
-Kris
My folks used to own/run their own industrial equipment brokerage, and one of the local guys we used for radiator repair used to push rods down each tube in the core.
You wouldn't believe how much gunk came out of a radiator. After watching that, I figured it would be cheaper to replace one versus all the manual labor needed to "fix" a radiator.
-Kris
07-22-2014, 07:36 AM
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Hey guys. Gonna order a radiator this weekend, pusher intercooler
Tubes, and a cold air intake this coming weekend. Hopefully have it by the following weekend and out it all in. I'm working on the road though so it will be kin dba pain with limited tools. Not sure what cold air intake to go with though. Was gonna do the BHAF deal but I dot have time or tools to make a custom air box for it. Looking at ASA and icebox, are there Any others?
Tubes, and a cold air intake this coming weekend. Hopefully have it by the following weekend and out it all in. I'm working on the road though so it will be kin dba pain with limited tools. Not sure what cold air intake to go with though. Was gonna do the BHAF deal but I dot have time or tools to make a custom air box for it. Looking at ASA and icebox, are there Any others?
