Towing 22K what would you do?
#16
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#17
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I put a manual lock-up switch on mine and it'll lock in all forward gears except 1st. You might have to get a built valve body but that can be had for under $500 and the benefits are great. I just got back from the Ozarks pulling my TT and was very impressed with the switch. Pulling 7% 1 mile grades at 25mph, my temps never went 190* plus it did help some on downhill braking. When unloaded and going downhill, I use it like an exhuaust brake and it will maintain my speed keeping me from riding my brakes. I only wish I had done this when I first got my truck because I probably wouldn't have trashed my original tranny.
I don't know if it's possible to do a 48RE but if you can, DO IT but use it wisely and conservatively.
Here's a link to the "mystery switch" I used:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=200326
#18
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Here is my experience towing long distance.
Trip to Moab UT (1200 miles one way) with my 30' goose pulled by my 2003 3500 srw with the HO engine with aProdigy Brake controller, and Everything stock.
22740 Gross
5060 Steering
6300 Drive
11300 Trailer.
I had no issues and it pulled very well. On the way back I shifted the cherokee farther back to get some load off the truck.
Trip to Moab UT (1200 miles one way) with my 30' goose pulled by my 2003 3500 srw with the HO engine with aProdigy Brake controller, and Everything stock.
22740 Gross
5060 Steering
6300 Drive
11300 Trailer.
I had no issues and it pulled very well. On the way back I shifted the cherokee farther back to get some load off the truck.
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If I was pulling all the time, with a load like that, I would have a dually w/410 gears. That is what they are made for. How many of you have been pulling heavy loads, and had a blowout on a rear tire? When you do, you will be doing one of 2 things: wishing you had bought a dually, or thinking how glad you are that have a dually.
I've got a 3500 DRW, and a 2500 SRW, so I can pick my battles. Not everyone has that luxury though.
later later.
Phillip
I've got a 3500 DRW, and a 2500 SRW, so I can pick my battles. Not everyone has that luxury though.
later later.
Phillip
#20
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This thought has crossed my mind already... it does seem compelling.
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Looks like your experience shows the SRW can handle the weight. I'm thinking some of my TC issues are coming from the frontal area I've got now. It's very clear when you see the FW's side by side.
What tires are you running under the 6300# rear axle?
This is my old and new pic btw
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Yep I already found links to a switch for the 48RE here. It seems a bit like dominos falling though. The switch just makes sure the truck is not unlocking the TC on purpose but if the TC is slipping under the load? Then I guess the VB is the next step? What would cause you to go to a new TC then? And after a VB and TC... well why not just get a full re-build... Then if you are doing that how about billet shafts... it seems to go from 500 to 5000 to 7500 pretty quick
#23
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The 06 48RE has an actual tow haul mode, not just an overdrive lock out. My tranny temps stay 160-170* towing while in lock up, and when not in lock up the temp will rise to 190-200*. The tow haul mode on my tranny keeps the torque converter locked most of the time. If for some reason it needs to downshift it will come out of lock up and downshift to 3rd then relock the T/Q immediately, then on up shift it will unlock, shift firmly then relock almost instantaneously while upshifting. It will even lock the T/Q in second gear if you shift it there manually. I have had no problems with it.
Tim
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Cool..
Looks like your experience shows the SRW can handle the weight. I'm thinking some of my TC issues are coming from the frontal area I've got now. It's very clear when you see the FW's side by side.
What tires are you running under the 6300# rear axle?
This is my old and new pic btw
Looks like your experience shows the SRW can handle the weight. I'm thinking some of my TC issues are coming from the frontal area I've got now. It's very clear when you see the FW's side by side.
What tires are you running under the 6300# rear axle?
This is my old and new pic btw
265 70R17
3195 rating at 80 psi. so I was right there on weight rating. They will be replaced this fall before winter sets in. They are pretty well worn down.
#25
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Dave,
Here is a couple of random thoughts I had about your situation. You already have air bags and the frame on your truck is the same strength as a SRW 3500 or Dually........minus the overload springs (which aren't a concern with the airbags). So your only real weak point in my mind is your tires.
I'd keep your truck and buy a set of Rickson 19.5 wheels/Tires and be done with it. http://www.ricksontruck.com/ Here is a link to a bunch of pics with the Rickson wheels on SRW Dodge trucks. http://www.ricksontruck.com/customers_dodge_srw.html
Other than that you might consider upgrading your transmission's valve body and torque converter.......and maybe add an exhaust brake. Smarty JR is always a nice option too which will also cool down your EGTs.
That said....IF you think you really want a dually you could always convert your truck to a dually like member "budsowner" https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...er.php?u=30905
His truck started life as a 2500 and he converted it to a dually...pics here. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=30905
I think you are going to take a financial bath to trade out of your truck. If I were in your shoes, I'd get the Rickson's, trans upgrades, PRXB, Smarty and hit the road!
..
Here is a couple of random thoughts I had about your situation. You already have air bags and the frame on your truck is the same strength as a SRW 3500 or Dually........minus the overload springs (which aren't a concern with the airbags). So your only real weak point in my mind is your tires.
I'd keep your truck and buy a set of Rickson 19.5 wheels/Tires and be done with it. http://www.ricksontruck.com/ Here is a link to a bunch of pics with the Rickson wheels on SRW Dodge trucks. http://www.ricksontruck.com/customers_dodge_srw.html
Other than that you might consider upgrading your transmission's valve body and torque converter.......and maybe add an exhaust brake. Smarty JR is always a nice option too which will also cool down your EGTs.
That said....IF you think you really want a dually you could always convert your truck to a dually like member "budsowner" https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...er.php?u=30905
His truck started life as a 2500 and he converted it to a dually...pics here. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=30905
I think you are going to take a financial bath to trade out of your truck. If I were in your shoes, I'd get the Rickson's, trans upgrades, PRXB, Smarty and hit the road!
..
#26
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...you might consider upgrading your transmission's valve body and torque converter.......and maybe add an exhaust brake. Smarty JR is always a nice option too which will also cool down your EGTs.
I think you are going to take a financial bath to trade out of your truck. If I were in your shoes, I'd get the Rickson's, trans upgrades, PRXB, Smarty and hit the road!
I was hoping there was a middle ground on tires. I swore someone around here said they have 4000# tires on aftermarket rims but I can't find a source/price for that. I've got a friend in the tire business and he's searching for something like that for me.
I'm going to stop by a Dodge dealer asap and pick up the brochures on the 2008 CTD. I agree I may take a bath, but until I actually push a few dealers for a price and trade-in value I won't know how bad the bath would be. I'm a bit strung out here because I still own both FW's but hopefully I'll get the old one sold this season and be able to use that cash for whatever I decide to do.
Keep the advice, facts and opinions coming! It does help me think this through.
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FYI, not sure about things in Jersey, but I got a flier in the mail from Port Lavaca Dodge (Port Lavaca, TX), and they where offering to withold the charge for the diesel option, rebates, and 25k miles worth of diesel fuel. Seems they cant give these trucks aways down here.
Me...I stick with my paid for 12valve.....
later.
Me...I stick with my paid for 12valve.....
later.
#29
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Yeah I'd go with the toyos in the sizes mentioned above or 285/75/17, a valvebody and a smarty jr.
If you pull all the time I'd get a DRW... Or the ricksons if you pull a lot of the time if the toyos won't get you there.
If you pull all the time I'd get a DRW... Or the ricksons if you pull a lot of the time if the toyos won't get you there.
#30
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FYI, not sure about things in Jersey, but I got a flier in the mail from Port Lavaca Dodge (Port Lavaca, TX), and they where offering to withold the charge for the diesel option, rebates, and 25k miles worth of diesel fuel. Seems they cant give these trucks aways down here.
Maybe for a Megacab without the gizmos... but 13K does seem like a real beating on the trade.