Last year I backed my truck into a low-lying concrete block and bent up the little box that held the 7-pin trailer connector (OOPS). Needless to say the connector was broken.

Anyway, I got a new 7-pin connector (also has a 4-pin connector beside it that draws from the same wiring, thought that was kinda cool) and I need to wire it up. I couldn't find a harness to connect to the 4-pin and 3-pin connectors under the bed so I cut them off.

I've heard some different opinions reguarding soldering vs. crimping, but it sounds like soldering and then heat shrinking around the connection is the way to go.

Anyway, any tips for soldering under the truck? The limited space and lack of excess wire to move around is gonna make it a pain... I have a soldering torch (butane, not electric), so I think it should do a good job as long as I can find enough room to work.

Thanks.

Dennis

 

The best advice I can give you is use a soldering gun, not a torch. If it is a pencil tip torch, you might be ok. I have both and prefer the gun. Be sure to use rosin core solder. Use long shrink wrap and seal the ends with silicone when done. There are crimp connections designed for underground usage. They are used by such as telephone and cable people. Hard to find and some take specialized crimping tools.

 

I agree with Fiverbob
Crimping/cold solder is the best if you have the proper press, if not twist them together and solder with a iron/gun then heat shrink tube to seal/isolate. You can buy heat shrink tube with the sealant already inside so as you heat and shrink the tube the sealant squishes out and forms a water proof seal.

 

If you use a pencil torch >>> Make sure you have room to separate the wires out so you don't burn them all up and burn yourself in the process.
I only use a torch for large wires... 10 Gauge and bigger when you have multiple wires connecting and the soldering gun takes way too long to heat them up enough to take the solder.
I like to use a solder gun on smaller wires like the ones you are talking about >>with a trigger with and rosin core solder... I also use the paste flux and brush a little on the wires to be soldered. I first melt the solder on the gun and then take it to the wires they just suck up the solder really nicely.

Also >> Make sure your heat shrink is not too close or the end will shrink down and make it irritating and difficult to slide over the exposed wires.

Good Luck.

OG

 

Thanks for the tips, we'll see how it goes. I should have been more specific, I have a soldering iron that is powered by a small butane torch, it has adjustable temperature.

Dennis

 

you can also get heat shrink type butt connectors. they work well in tight spaces. i would use a heat gun to shrink them instead of open flame. just another option.

 

I would use a good weather proof heat shrink butt connector & a heat gun. You can buy special crimping tools but you don't need them. This is what I used to put the 7 way plug in my bed 5 years ago. I'm in rain snow salted roads mud without one problem. They used soler b4 they had good connectors. Dodge Freightliner Caterpiller Ranger on & on use weather proof connections with good results. Almost bet a solered joint in the field will fail.IMO Check out some good stuff @ www.waytekwire.com

 

If you haven't already done it I would get one from the dealer, they just plug in. I've broken a few with gravel spraying off the tires on gravel roads.

 

If you do decide to solder it up, as said use the environment proof heat shrink and make sure you use alcohol and acid brush to get ALL the flux out of the soldered joint, before you seal it up. The flux used in cored solders is corrosive and will weaken the joint eventually.

 

Of Course, there are different fluxes. Acid Core and Rosin Core.

# Although solder is also sold in a solid bar, core-type solder is most commonly used. One type of solder has a rosin core while the other has an acid core.

# Always use a rosin-core solder (this has a rosin flux in the center) for soldering electrical wiring and metals like tin and copper.

# Use an acid-core solder (this has an acid flux in the center) for soldering more difficult metals, such as galvanized iron. When you use an acid-core solder, the surface to which the solder is applied should be washed after each soldering to remove the corrosive effect of the acid.


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