I have a 2004 dodge CTD dually, auto & a 39ft 2011 Sierra 5th wheel weighing about 13,000 to 14,000 pounds . I am not very knowledgeable of working on the CTD or any engine for that matter . I can & have only done maintenance on my rides . Mine will stay stock mostly .
I am thinking of getting a smarty jr , what settings would be best for towing .
I have about 6 month experience in towing a 5th wheel , my previous trailer on weighed about 8,500 and I pulled it with a F250 V10 Gasser .


Thanks for the help ,
Bigdaddy51200

 

I am pretty sure that 5'ver is at or over the limit for an auto. I wouldn't do any engine mods until the trans was upgraded.

To really improve towing a step up to the 4500 would probably be best.

I am sure others will have more suggestions.

 

what kind of transmission mods ??

 

I'd start with making sure your not hauling anything you don't have to. I didn't know if your new to rv'ing or not, but newbies tend to over pack. My in laws carried a weed eater, several rakes and shovels, and enough pots and pans to run a full cafeteria. Then move to making sure your rig is in top shape. Repack the bearings, check the brakes, check tires and make sure they are at full inflation before every trip. They also got a 100 gallon water tank and he would fill up it to the cap before every trip, yet they never dry camped. That's well over 800 extra pounds right there. Simply put, a camper that rolls easier, is going to pull easier.

 

I am guessing at the weight . I won't have a accurate weight until I put it on a CAT scale . The dry weight is 11,118 pounds . I really think it will be under 13,000 easy .

 

Try this link to see what others are towing.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/20298675.cfm

I'm a single rear wheel and tow 13,500, weighed on a CAT scale. I'm over GCVW but under all axle weights. I drive conservatively with the right foot. Smarty SR, level 5. No problems with the manual clutch holding. My gut says you're probably OK with a dually and that weight 5er but I'd take it to some scales to see whats actually on each axle.


Lots of guys running the Smarty. You will want to be able to monitor your EGTs so you know what is going on with the motor.

 

I would get the SMJ and a set of gauges, keep the RPMs up if you get into the hills (not sure what gear you have). if the tranny starts running warm, you may have to upgrade. Compared to 2011 trucks the factory weights look low on an 04, but in that year that was the best towing truck you could buy.

 

To address the tranny mods, the first one would have to be a transmission fluid temp gauge, hands down. After that, the best would be a full built tranny from any one of DTT (http://dieseltrans.com), Goerend (http://www.goerend.com/), BD (http://www.dieselperformance.com/), or maybe ATS (http://www.atsdiesel.com/).

That would probably be around $5,000 or more though, so if you wanted to keep it more economical there seem to be a lot of guys who are happy with just a tighter aftermarket torque converter (Suncoast), and an aftermarket valve body.

Another easy mod would be a Mag Hytec aluminum tranny pan. That'll increase your fluid capacity and help cooling a bit.

 

I'd for sure start with tranny mods of some sort, but I'd especially add a pyrometer to the line going to the oil cooler.

 

I have basically the same setup, 2004.5 CTD 3500 SRW pulling a 39' Mountana Mountaineer which is around 12,800 dry weight. I will def tell you that a good tranny (converter and valve body atleast) makes a HUGH difference in how the truck pulls. I am getting about 1-1.5 mpg better pulling with my built tranny vs. stock. I would also suggest checking your lift pump. My factory pump was just barely enough and when I switched to a good aftermarket I could tell a difference in how well my truck did with a load. They are not cheap, but it is good insurance plus a supporting mod for any future improvements.

You have plenty of truck for the camper, but if you add a smarty or any other chip to it you need gauges and will very shortly need tranny work/improvements.

 

Thanks for the tips . I have no way of knowing if any of this has been done by the previous owners . I am number 4 . It had 170,000 miles on it when I purchased it a few weeks ago . I am just going to leave it alone until I see how it does this camping/Tailgating season. I will just change all the fluids and see what it does .

Bigdaddy51200

 

Look at my upgrades listed on my signature. I have towed my 14,000 Lb 5th wheel over 40K miles through montains, deserts from Puerto Vallarta Mexico to Washington state to Washington DC and back to Puerto Vallarta. My truck has never failed me. With the exception of wearing out brakes before adding the exhaust brake. On the road you'll see mostly Dodge rams pulling all sorts of heavy loads. Do the mods then pull like crazy.

Tony

 

Before you add a programmer, you need gauges. Trans Temp, Pryo, and boost is good to have. I also like to run a rear diff temp gauge.

As for your tranny, start off with a 30,000 GVCW cooler with and electric fan. If you want more fluid, get the pan as that's all they are really good for, holding more fluid.

Your truck will go forward just fine, stopping is the issue you want to think about with these rigs when you're towing.

You said you have 170,000 miles on your transmission? That's a lot of miles for a 48re. You may want to pull it and get clutches replaced. If you decided to get a torque converter, get one with a lower stall RPM, as it will help you towing. I'd stay away from billet and triple disc converters unless you go to an all billet transmission.

A TON of companies build great stuff for the 48re. Shop around.

I would not tow with any power added unless it's just timing, unless you upgrade your AIR, turbo, exhaust, and fuel.

Biggest thing is to make sure your truck sits level with the 5er hooked up. This may require add a leaf, air bags, or overload springs. Depending on your budget, this will determine what you will want to do.

After your truck sits level loaded, you're going to want to make sure your trailer is set up to sit level as well.

While towing keep your eyes glued on your Pryo (Ext temp) and trans temp. If your pyro climbs, down shift, and pull your foot off the fuel pedal until it falls back down to operating temps. Transmission fluid can last you 15k miles if you run it at 200+ degrees or it will last 60k miles if you never break 140 degrees.

We have an 01 3500 SRW dodge CTD with a 47 and have towed 30k+ through the mountians of Wyoming. We went through 3 transmissions in the first 20k miles. We got a 48 retrofitted in the truck in '04 and have abused it for the last 300k miles. We also plow snow in parking lots with the truck in the winter, which is harder on it than pulling the heavy weight.

 

If the filter is still clean and there are nothing on the magnet, just keep driving it. What gears you running in the truck? You'll be at the top end of the weight limit. You might want look into air bags if the pin weight is heavy. Have your brakes inspected and checked on both the trailer and truck.

Do you have towing mirrors on the truck? Check all the lights to make sure they work. Take your time when you tow, you don't have to do the speed limit. Watch the corners, that you are not turning too sharply.

How good are you at backing up?

I've towed that heavy with my 02, no issues, thru the mountains. If you ride your brakes lots, they will start to get hot, so think ahead.

 

I got 3.73 gears . The trailer is brand new , no worries there . I am pretty good at backing . I do have tow mirrors . I going to install Firestone air bags , change all fluids/filters , add a deep trans pan , and maybe a exhaust brake (boy that is expensive ) , new HD brake pads , new Bilstein HD shocks.