Well I towed a buddies trailer that had a short and now when connected to my trailer the right rear trailer brake/blinker does not work. What I know so far on the the truck and trailer.

Truck
All lights on the truck work.
No fuses blown in the TIPM.
No codes.
Voltage to pin on the 7 way connector to the right rear light tops out at 10.6 vdc
No grounds in the light circuit wires at the 7 way connector.

Trailer
All lights but the right rear brake and blinker work
No grounds.
All bulbs are good
Resistance from the 7 way connector on the trailer to ground is 1.3 to 1.6 ohms for each of the light circuits.

The question is. Can you reset the TIPM yourself or does it require a shop visit? I would hate to have to have it reset there and pay $80 or $90 for 2 minutes work.

 

Shop visit! They have to reset it with the star scan tool.

Tony

 

Hey Andy. Just install one of these. http://www.etrailer.com/p-119176.html

Trying to mess with the TIPM is a waste of time. Your truck will do this again and again. For 1/2 of the price of a dealer visit the problem can be fixed for good.

I put this on 2 years ago on my dually. Best fix ever. It even has its own solid state flasher built inside. The factory wiring is very lightweight and is borderline overloaded when towing a trailer. Its like 18 guage from the firewall back to the tail lights. Your trailer plug piggy backs off that. The factory wiring is just too lightweight and problems eventually arise from that.

Anyway the trailer lights will now be powered by a wire off of the fuse box with its own fuse. The box picks up the taillight signals and sends it to the trailer. The trailer lights will be brighter and have the correct amperage available to operate them.

If you put this lil dude in you will never have another trailer lighting problem again.

There are cheaper ones if you search around on etrailer. I just put this one in since Im commercial.

This page has all the different ones they offer.
http://accessories.etrailer.com/sear...ight+converter

Take Care
Carey

ps on second thought I put the bigger one on. http://www.etrailer.com/p-119190KIT.html Either will work though, and there are cheaper ones that will work just fine for private type use.

 

Carey, thanks, I really don't want to splice wire to put in one of those boxes. What I would like is to get the TIPM reset and then have a box the plugs into the existing 7-way plug with built in isolation that the trailer pig tail can then be plugged into. That way there would be no splices and the whole thing would be self contained.

I may end up with a converter but I will keep looking for a cleaner install that does not require scotch locks!

 

No scotch locks on mine. I used Napa 3 way connectors. After you crimp em you hit em with a small torch and they shrink down. They are covered in top quality clear shrink. I go thru loads and loads of salty roads. They look as good as new. I can see right thru them.

I used the same wire connectors that semis use. Its a super clean install and it will fix the problem for good.

Carey

 

Here is the plug and play version.

http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...2500_3500.html

Its not powered though.

Carey

 

On second thought, maybe it is. looks like it pulls power from someplace in the rear. Its nice to have a seperate fuse for the trailer on the others.

Anyway thats about all there is available.

We've had guys get there TIPMs tripped just from a bulb that burned out and shorted itself on its way out.

If you tow very long with a dodge, your gonna have the TIPM problem.

Carey

 

Is the hopkins plug and play version the same thing basically as the modulite. I wanna do this mod before my TIPM takes a dump. Should I just stick with a modulite. Thanks

HoTRod

 

I think with some creativity, one of the parts above, some wire, and the necessary replacement trailer plugs, you could build a 'plug and play' system without splicing into the truck lights. It would still require the heavy wire from a good 12 volt source to the back by the factory trailer plug, but very doable I think.

 

I have the same problem on the same corner. The dealer reflash did nothing. That means new fuse box but I'm not paying for it. On the dodge, the lower bulb is your brake, your upper is the turn signal. I chose to have turn signals over brake lights on that right side. My only trailer also runs LEDs. So my load is minimal. I tapped the turn signal and ran a standard auto relay available at autozone and ran power from the battery. I've fused it very low, but with the LEDs don't forsee a problem. I should be towing friday and will test it in towing use for the first time since my fix.

 

Was the attempt to flash it covered under warranty of any kind?

 

Absolutely not. I tried. And tried again. No dice.

 

I'm interested in answers to this also. I have the same issue right now.

How succesful have others been on doing the reflash at the dealer?

I'm with Andy, I really don't want to "splice" into my tail lights. But I don't want to spend a fortune on oem parts.

 

Ok for a non mechanical kinda guy who learns so much on here from some brilliant people what is a TIPM ?

Thanks

 

TIPM = Totally Integrated Power Module. Fancy wording for a way over sophisticated fuse box.