Mechanos

I'm quite certain that the huge rocks, etc. that I drag my trail truck over and through are going to do MUCH more damage to the axle tubes than the chains on the trailer will. My vote is on urban legend.

Haulin_in_Dixie

Yes you are 100% right. That said, it is easy to bend parts on these light weight Jap cars. Some of the more expensive European cars do not have a good place to tie them down other than wheel straps. A Chev Caviler also comes to mind. Hard to tie the rear of them down with chains. Many cars have only light tin where the chain slots are. The rear suspension parts are easily bent. Some of these cars are made like temporary toys.

displacedtexan

I had kinda assumed that it was not very likely, except on those motorized tin cans that people drive to save a tree...

Figuerd I would bring it up and see what yall had to say, as I respect the opinions I get on here.

Haulin_in_Dixie

I might also add, on the subject of this thread. The Caviler and Sunfire type bodies come with two tie down anchor points only for chains. An anchor point under the engine on the passenger side and an R hook slot on the drivers side rear. If you hook to the other sides, you would have to go to suspension parts on the front and sheetmetal on the rear.

I went to all wheel strap use mainly because I was gettin dozens of cars with ripped sheet metal under that a previous hauler had done. I now use straps and do not have to worry that a customer will try to charge me for damage. I have seen the chain slot ripped six inches long on some.

Since I went to straps, I use two, one on opposite corners, I have never had a car creep as the strap nails the tire down to the trailer. With chains on very rough roads, especially the rear car, the car will creep around on the trailer. Chains also like to come unhooked and lost at times leaving the car just sitting there with a loose front chain. Straps eliminate this problem.

Patrick Campbell

Good info for someone who is thinking of getting into car hauling Tire straps seem pretty quick and easy.

Dieseldude4x4

I bought a bunch of different tie down attachments from www.awdirect.com so I can tie down just about anything that I can get on the trailer. Here is how I tie down my tractors. I have been laughed at when putting this many chains on but I have never lost a load and don't intend to either. I use only DOT approved gear.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=3

There is four chains and two binders on each tractor.

Bad Ramer Jamer

I agree with the tire strap's. I haul 3 car's at the same time. I have found through expieriance that a stick shift car may want to creep a little if the e-brake doesn't hold well. That scares the hell out of me,(especially on a brand new Vette) so I also put a strap from the front and rear. Also, a front wheel drive car that is very light in the rear end(not having one) will tend to jump on really bad bump's if it's the last car on the trailer. It cause's the rear strap's to rotate. So I also put a strap from the rear down in that cituation.

For some reason my link to webshot's isn't working. I'm waiting photo approval on this sight, then I'll show you the pic here.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...31274500jxfzlm

2500CTD

I thought those straps would put undo stress on the front bushings and such?? i usually use axel straps in the rear, and sometimes to the frame in the front or to the lower controll arm. Never ripped a frame because I loop around them. Only to my own cars which are all older Mopars. However I do like that strap method. I'm making another trip to FL and towing our Newport back on our open trailer, and really thinking of trying those straps out.

Haulin_in_Dixie

A commercial can only use the factory anchor points or the wheels. Older cars are not so hard anyway, you could not tear those frames. A taurus is real bad to tear the front anchor points. Some forign cars like a Volvo do not have american type anchors and are very difficult to tie down. Wheel straps cure all that.

4x4not

For loading my Jeep I'm thinking to make things easier, I'm gonna weld some mounts to the axle itself so that I can get myself some chains at a preset length, then pull the Jeep on the trailer, hook the chains up, pull forward until I stop, then use the load binders up front. Anyone see a problem with this?

Eskimo

old u-bolts work very well for this...tack the bolt to the housing with a few inches of bolt protruding forward, and then using a BFH, pound the u-bolt down to the axle tube, while welding it.. Gives you a HUGE amount of surface area to weld.

I use axle straps around my rear axle and hook the chains (also at a preset length) to them. I usually pull up till they are tight, and then spin the tires a little... it centers the rear of the rig on the trailer. (I always seem to be a little to one side or the other). After that, I leave it in gear, hook up the front straps, pull them snug, take the trans out of gear, really pull the front tight, then put the trans in park, 4-low.

Pulling it out of gear makes sure you're not trying to pull the front against the park pawl.

Bonshawman

I, on occasion, haul one of my collector cars or one of my collector military vehicles. I use axle straps to chains with binders, and cross them. I also have heavy duty ratchet straps, which I sometimes use instead of the chains/binders and also cross. One my former trailer, I have d rings welded on the trailer, or I use stake pockets. When I use the ratchet straps or binders for anything other than a short trip, I use a tie-wrap to secure the binder or ratchet handle down, to prevent it from accidently openning. Also, after load up, about ten miles or so, re-check all chains/straps. Check again when you fuel up, and all should be fine. I don't like to chain to frame, but have now and then gone over a spring. Of course, you apply the parking brake on the trailered vehicle if operational, and I have also used a chock block to further prevent motion, so long as the block can be secured not to wander on the trailer bed. Also critical, of course, is the positioning of the vehicle on the trailer to properly balance the load on the trailer axles and to consider tongue weight. Inside my enclose Peterbilt hauler, I do use my 8500 lbs winch as a forward secure point, but I have strap tie downs for the rear and an additional from the front, and my 8,000 armored car just sits there and enjoys the ride. Good luck !
Steve in Miami

Patrick Campbell

How do the big car haulers tie down the little cars? They seem to all use chains.

I am (MORE) happy to use straps but I have been told some company's will require chains.

My truck has a perforated deck so I could use the take 3 style straps. And it has chains/ratchets too.

RickCJ

The big car carriers use the chains at the factory anchor points. Lot of the car dealers, wedge trailers, and rolbacks use wheel straps or chains. I also prefer the wheel straps, they are lighter and easier to use. and cheaper! I've never had anyone at a dealership even look to see how I tie them down! They just hand me the keys and point me in the general direction. Never lost a load yet!

Patrick Campbell

Confused as to what you mean by you also put a strap from the rear down Are you saying in addition to chains?