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Semi Truck Fuel tank in bed questions

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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #16  
haulin-rv's Avatar
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From: Illinois
Originally Posted by Bad Ramer Jamer
Ever heard of IFTA. Or are you licensed under 26,000. It doesn't save you any money if you have to pay IFTA in the state you didn't buy fuel. It's kinda of a wash IMO.

Speaking of IFTA,,,I'm getting ready to do mine right now. God I hate doing IFTA report's.
I run under so it saves me, even if I was over it still saves the time and hassle of multiple fill ups.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:30 PM
  #17  
P Kennedy's Avatar
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From: Ft. McMurray Alberta
Got to a truck wrecker and trade the tank you have for a 20" diameter tank 48-50" inches long with j brackets, these tanks are DOT approved and hold 75-85 gallons. Chech for DOT tab on tank with specs. PK
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:32 PM
  #18  
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From: Fl Keys
I live in the keys lots of aluminum fuel tanks ive ewelded on full tanks empty tanks small ones all the way up to the tankers runnin down the road. Its not that comlpicated can be nerve racking tho like somoenon here said dish soap and if you can smell it its there you can also perge it with inert gas like Argon or carbonmionoxide you cant have fire without oxygen. and make sure you clean atleast a few inches away from the weld real well ldont want any perocity. A welding shop should be able to ahndel it for you. Unless you tig easy way to check the weld is to use shop air to about 5psi and soapy water to find any leaks.

Also i used a 100.00 pump from northern tool and a 10micron inline filter for 29.00 from northern it works great added an extra fuel guage, i built custom stainless stell tanks i hold 100 gallons under my bed DOT dosnt notice it (check my pics in my profile)
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 06:33 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mwlu711
i dnt want to offend you by any means but i am going to give you sum advice that could save your life.
i assume this is a used tank.diesel vapor will blow up on you so your best bet is to use some plain old tide soap and water to wash the tank inside and out until you cannot smel diesel any more.be patient this will take a while.and then when you go to weld keep it purged with co2 in a well venalated area as long as your cover gas dont blow away just dont sufacate yourself.dad and i have used this method several times to modify diesel tanks after he had one blow up on him.good luck

I am not offend at all, I guess now that I read my post it seems that way. Thank you for the heads up dangers of working on the tank.
I do run IFTA but what I will do is when every I have to pull over at the state I am in all I will do is poor a few gallons and be on my way.
I am going to see if theres anybody that can trade me for a smaller one.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #20  
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From: Colorado
If you are hauling for a living, and probably have a business.... If you got in an accident, even if it wasn't your fault, but your tank leaked and started a fire.... I'd expect lawsuit heaven without that fancy little DOT stamp on the tank. Say goodbye to your business.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #21  
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From: Cape Cod Ma.
Fuel tanks are not difficult to weld-- As long as they dont blow up. Toremove the end of a tank, stand it on end, fill it as full of soapy water as you can, cut the end off with a sawzall. Use the water, a sawzall blade can shoot a spark just as easy as a torch. Leave it full as possible when welding the end back on. Water doesnt burn. the CO2 post is the BEST idea.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 11:05 PM
  #22  
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From: Killeen, Tx
Originally Posted by haulin-rv
Can not use it. The max allowed to carry in the bed is 115 gal by law. The saddle tanks guys have in the beds are the 100gallon tanks.
Where can I find this law? It certainly isn't in the FMC regs that I can find.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #23  
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I can't find ether. There are to many rules that my eyes have gone cross eyed.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:27 AM
  #24  
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From: St.Paul , MN
Wash as you want but if you are going to TIG weld you don't want to purge with CO2. Use Argon. I have a dual regulator specifically for this situation. Fuel tanks are a pain in the rear. It is next to impossible to get all the oil out. The welds may look good but I doubt they would pass a certified inspection. They may even hold for a while. I've done a bunch of fuel tanks most were ok. Be very very carefull pressure testing with air, even 5 psi in a 120 gallon tank can be fatal if it lets go.

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 11:13 AM
  #25  
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From: conroe tx
Originally Posted by GAmes
Where can I find this law? It certainly isn't in the FMC regs that I can find.
i've got a 50 from a reefer trailer,and dads has a 100 off a kw cabover.we've both been inspected in multiple states more times than i could count,and they have NEVER even looked towards our tanks or brackets or the stacks or the muffler delete.
i paid $100 for each tank w/mounts so unless u can weld the tank yourself i would sell it and buy a smaller unit
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #26  
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From: St.Paul , MN
I agree 100 %. I build a few custom tanks and I always tell guys to try and buy over the counter if possible. I can't even buy materials for what some of the tanks cost. It can take 8 hours or to fab a good tank for street rods.

I just finished a tank for my ****** and I had over $120 in materials alone in it not counting fittings and sender.

A nearly the same size tank at the local hotrod shop was $250 including the sender ($100)

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 11:55 AM
  #27  
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From: Sarasota, FL
Originally Posted by mwlu711
i dnt want to offend you by any means but i am going to give you sum advice that could save your life.
i assume this is a used tank.diesel vapor will blow up on you so your best bet is to use some plain old tide soap and water to wash the tank inside and out until you cannot smel diesel any more.be patient this will take a while.and then when you go to weld keep it purged with co2 in a well venalated area as long as your cover gas dont blow away just dont sufacate yourself.dad and i have used this method several times to modify diesel tanks after he had one blow up on him.good luck
OR....if unsure what the tank was used for fill it almost full of water when welding on it. Even after washed it can still have residual fumes, oil, etc that can explode.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 12:37 PM
  #28  
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From: St.Paul , MN
you got that right. Not a bad idea but you can still see the PIA it is to work on used tanks. Labor= many $$$$.

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 01:13 PM
  #29  
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From: Kerrville eastern new mexico, west texas
the main reg you will fall under is hazerdous placards anything over 115 or 118 gallons (not sure on the correct amount maybe 120) that is not manufactured by the maker like big rig fuel tanks. if its in the bed of the truck or trailer it is considered cargo theirfore requiring hazmat placards and endorsement. have them ask me all the time on the fuel tank capacity in my truck
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 01:19 PM
  #30  
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Well my friend and just forced the tank in the bed and I think I am going to leave it in as is. When I bought this tank it came with mounting brackets and sending unit for the fuel level. I need to figure out how to transfer the fuel from the semi truck tank to the main. I would like to put a fuel level gauge to monitor the level of the fuel and I would also like to find a gauge that can monitor how many miles are left. Is the one available? The most important to me is having a pump that I can flip a switch to fill the main tank. I was told from a guy in the Hot Shot business that we can't have a gravity feed with a check valve like the setup from Northern tools model #011025. Can you recommend the parts to make this happen.Thanks.
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