Rookie to Towing! Have questions, help!
04-05-2007, 10:05 PM
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Rookie to Towing! Have questions, help!
Hello Everyone,
As you can see I purchased my 97 over 1 month ago, and just bought a 7000 GVW car trailer today as I am going to be periodically towing some classic cars. This weekend will be my maiden voyage, and I have never towed anything in my life!!!!
Some questions:
I decided to purchase a trailer brake for my truck, my friend has been debating this with me all week because he swears up and down that you don't need one. I however, felt I would be in a much safer position with one as the cars from the 50's and 60's are heavy. Is he right? Could I have gotten by without a trailer brake?
Secondly, I have an automatic trans, with a full load, what is the best way for me to be towing, should I start the vehicle in low gear, take it up to a certain RPM's, then shift into the next gear etc?? What about when I am approaching an incline/grade, am I going to have to down shift? I would hate to down shift and rev the engine to high etc.
Finally, Gas mileage? I have only driven the truck about 300-350 miles so far and it seems to be getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 17 MPG not towing. What do you think one would expect to get gas mileage wise if you are pulling a fully loaded 7000 GVW trailer??
Thanks for taking the time to read my post and answer some questions,
Regards,
Steve
As you can see I purchased my 97 over 1 month ago, and just bought a 7000 GVW car trailer today as I am going to be periodically towing some classic cars. This weekend will be my maiden voyage, and I have never towed anything in my life!!!!
Some questions:
I decided to purchase a trailer brake for my truck, my friend has been debating this with me all week because he swears up and down that you don't need one. I however, felt I would be in a much safer position with one as the cars from the 50's and 60's are heavy. Is he right? Could I have gotten by without a trailer brake?
Secondly, I have an automatic trans, with a full load, what is the best way for me to be towing, should I start the vehicle in low gear, take it up to a certain RPM's, then shift into the next gear etc?? What about when I am approaching an incline/grade, am I going to have to down shift? I would hate to down shift and rev the engine to high etc.
Finally, Gas mileage? I have only driven the truck about 300-350 miles so far and it seems to be getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 17 MPG not towing. What do you think one would expect to get gas mileage wise if you are pulling a fully loaded 7000 GVW trailer??
Thanks for taking the time to read my post and answer some questions,
Regards,
Steve
04-05-2007, 10:50 PM
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Steve-
Having towed a '63 Impala and '70 Chevelle with both half and three quarter ton trucks I would say you might need one if you plan to tow on a regular basis - it will increase your comfort level. Your auto transmission will be fine in D off the line and will downshift when it needs to on inclines. Your mileage will depend on your speed and how many inclines you have to climb.
Having towed a '63 Impala and '70 Chevelle with both half and three quarter ton trucks I would say you might need one if you plan to tow on a regular basis - it will increase your comfort level. Your auto transmission will be fine in D off the line and will downshift when it needs to on inclines. Your mileage will depend on your speed and how many inclines you have to climb.
04-05-2007, 10:56 PM
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Quick Right on. Thanks. Into Chevys eh? That is cool. I am towing a 67 Cadillac this weekend and then next weekend a 65 Impala 4 door hard top.
That is good to know in regards to the tranny.
I should be traveling 55-65 MPH, no faster then that, and the route is fairly straight/level, not too many inclines.
To be honest, my mileage in the city has not seemed to be all that great. I was expecting 19-22 MPG. I had the fuel filters changed and everything but, still not seeming to get much better then 17.
Thanks,
That is good to know in regards to the tranny.
I should be traveling 55-65 MPH, no faster then that, and the route is fairly straight/level, not too many inclines.
To be honest, my mileage in the city has not seemed to be all that great. I was expecting 19-22 MPG. I had the fuel filters changed and everything but, still not seeming to get much better then 17.
Thanks,
04-05-2007, 11:46 PM
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If I was in your shoes, I would definetly want the trailer brakes with that setup. I haul an overhead camper and a 20ft heavy bass boat with out trailer brakes and there are times I wish I had them, but have done fine with out them, then again my truck is a 1ton with upgraded brakes and I have logged alot of miles towing heavy both in my personal vehicals and when I use to drive a wrecker for a living. So tht being said I think you made a good decision geting the trailer brakes.
For mpg, you can probably expect to see about a 2-4 mpg drop in milage depending on how heavy, hills, wind, speed, ect.... To get your best milage out of it try to drive with the converter locked and as close to the peak torque of the motor as much as possible (1600rpm) and watch ahead for red lights and stuff. When you see one let off the gas and coast as much as possible, try to maintain as much momentum as possible so you don't have to accelerate back up to speed as much.
And for which gear to tow in, others would be better to answer than me as I own a manual, and have only owned one auto in my life and that was only for 9months.
hope this helps....Josh
For mpg, you can probably expect to see about a 2-4 mpg drop in milage depending on how heavy, hills, wind, speed, ect.... To get your best milage out of it try to drive with the converter locked and as close to the peak torque of the motor as much as possible (1600rpm) and watch ahead for red lights and stuff. When you see one let off the gas and coast as much as possible, try to maintain as much momentum as possible so you don't have to accelerate back up to speed as much.
And for which gear to tow in, others would be better to answer than me as I own a manual, and have only owned one auto in my life and that was only for 9months.
hope this helps....Josh
04-05-2007, 11:47 PM
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I sure wouldn't want to be towing anything over a few thousand lbs. without brakes. It shouldn't take much longer to stop the truck/trailer combination than it would to stop the truck alone.
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04-06-2007, 12:15 AM
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If I was in your shoes, I would definetly want the trailer brakes with that setup. I haul an overhead camper and a 20ft heavy bass boat with out trailer brakes and there are times I wish I had them, but have done fine with out them, then again my truck is a 1ton with upgraded brakes and I have logged alot of miles towing heavy both in my personal vehicals and when I use to drive a wrecker for a living. So tht being said I think you made a good decision geting the trailer brakes.
For mpg, you can probably expect to see about a 2-4 mpg drop in milage depending on how heavy, hills, wind, speed, ect.... To get your best milage out of it try to drive with the converter locked and as close to the peak torque of the motor as much as possible (1600rpm) and watch ahead for red lights and stuff. When you see one let off the gas and coast as much as possible, try to maintain as much momentum as possible so you don't have to accelerate back up to speed as much.
And for which gear to tow in, others would be better to answer than me as I own a manual, and have only owned one auto in my life and that was only for 9months.
hope this helps....Josh
For mpg, you can probably expect to see about a 2-4 mpg drop in milage depending on how heavy, hills, wind, speed, ect.... To get your best milage out of it try to drive with the converter locked and as close to the peak torque of the motor as much as possible (1600rpm) and watch ahead for red lights and stuff. When you see one let off the gas and coast as much as possible, try to maintain as much momentum as possible so you don't have to accelerate back up to speed as much.
And for which gear to tow in, others would be better to answer than me as I own a manual, and have only owned one auto in my life and that was only for 9months.
hope this helps....Josh
Thanks for the info, it is much appreciated. I agree with you in regards to the Trailer Brake, I paid 180.00 installed which seemed fair, to me it was the safest thing to do especially with no experience.
I must say that I am a bit nervous about towing but, as long as I am catious, and very proactive, I think I should be o.k. I will just take it REAL easy, and try to be super catious.
04-06-2007, 12:16 AM
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04-06-2007, 02:32 AM
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Your welcome. As long as your careful you shouldn't run into many troubles.
A couple things I just thought of.....
1. One of your biggest things for trailer performance once you get a car on the trailer is tongue weight. How the car is positioned on the trailer can drastically affect this. Meaning car facing forward or backward and how far you pull it up on the trailer. Generally you want to have 10% of your total load in tongue weight. You'll have to play around with this until you get used to how your particular trailer handles. To get you started not enough tongue weight will cause the trailer to "sway" behind the truck. To much will cause the front of the truck to feel light, be harder to steer, and the back to dive when hiting bumps and braking.
2. Your going to want to invest in some good tie downs. Usually I recomend using 2 good quality ratchet staps on the front and 2 Grade 70 or better chains to "dead man" the back. Plus a chain backup on the front. You always want a non mechanical of some form on both ends, thats why I say ratchet front with chain backup, and chain on the back. Here is a good place to get these things http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=index
Let me know if you have any questions. PM me if needed, we can even exchange #'s and chat over the phone
TTYL....Josh
A couple things I just thought of.....
1. One of your biggest things for trailer performance once you get a car on the trailer is tongue weight. How the car is positioned on the trailer can drastically affect this. Meaning car facing forward or backward and how far you pull it up on the trailer. Generally you want to have 10% of your total load in tongue weight. You'll have to play around with this until you get used to how your particular trailer handles. To get you started not enough tongue weight will cause the trailer to "sway" behind the truck. To much will cause the front of the truck to feel light, be harder to steer, and the back to dive when hiting bumps and braking.
2. Your going to want to invest in some good tie downs. Usually I recomend using 2 good quality ratchet staps on the front and 2 Grade 70 or better chains to "dead man" the back. Plus a chain backup on the front. You always want a non mechanical of some form on both ends, thats why I say ratchet front with chain backup, and chain on the back. Here is a good place to get these things http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=index
Let me know if you have any questions. PM me if needed, we can even exchange #'s and chat over the phone
TTYL....Josh
04-06-2007, 03:27 AM
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Electric brakes: Good choice. The only reasonable choice that wasn't bad.
I don't care how good of a driver anyone is. With one or more axles not contributing to braking, you stop less quickly than with all axles braking. Electric brakes are marginal at best - air brakes are about 100x better. So make sure to keep all your contacts (trailer plug and socket) clean. Make sure your trailer brakes can hold their own.
Remember that handling with a trailer (especially bumper pull) is different. Properly rigged and loaded, she should handle well, though. If you feel sway (trailer "tail wagging" the truck), your weight distribution is probably incorrect.
I can't emphasize enough the importance of understanding the hitch up proceedure and following it carefully. Make sure the tongue is clamped around the ball, and secured properly. Cross safety chains under the hitch. Pull test with the trailer brakes engaged, and check all lamps. Kick the trailer tires (check air pressure). Feel hubs at stops for excess heat (failing bearings).
Other than that, tak'er easy, and you should be fine.
I don't care how good of a driver anyone is. With one or more axles not contributing to braking, you stop less quickly than with all axles braking. Electric brakes are marginal at best - air brakes are about 100x better. So make sure to keep all your contacts (trailer plug and socket) clean. Make sure your trailer brakes can hold their own.
Remember that handling with a trailer (especially bumper pull) is different. Properly rigged and loaded, she should handle well, though. If you feel sway (trailer "tail wagging" the truck), your weight distribution is probably incorrect.
I can't emphasize enough the importance of understanding the hitch up proceedure and following it carefully. Make sure the tongue is clamped around the ball, and secured properly. Cross safety chains under the hitch. Pull test with the trailer brakes engaged, and check all lamps. Kick the trailer tires (check air pressure). Feel hubs at stops for excess heat (failing bearings).
Other than that, tak'er easy, and you should be fine.
04-06-2007, 06:52 AM
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ScottN is correct.
You DO need brakes on trailer, you will not be able to stop the whole rig in an emergency, your truck weights 6500lbs, trailer 2000lbs, car 5000lbs....you are doubling the weight to be stopped, so your friend was wrong, you did fine.
Always give more weight in front of the axles, not viceversa or you will experiment what's called "fishtail", which is your trailer end swinging left and right, very dangerous, load your vehicle with engine end facing front of trailer, than back it off to unload.
Be aware of DOT Patrols, you should not transport for hire or you will need to be legal with DOT number, MC number, insurance, log books, etc. which is very expensive.
If you don't charge anything and just do it for the fun with your vehicles it should be no problem, be sure you have everything working on trailer (lights, brakes, emergency switch, etc.) because you will get pulled over and these Patrols are NOT cheap.
You DO need brakes on trailer, you will not be able to stop the whole rig in an emergency, your truck weights 6500lbs, trailer 2000lbs, car 5000lbs....you are doubling the weight to be stopped, so your friend was wrong, you did fine.
Always give more weight in front of the axles, not viceversa or you will experiment what's called "fishtail", which is your trailer end swinging left and right, very dangerous, load your vehicle with engine end facing front of trailer, than back it off to unload.
Be aware of DOT Patrols, you should not transport for hire or you will need to be legal with DOT number, MC number, insurance, log books, etc. which is very expensive.
If you don't charge anything and just do it for the fun with your vehicles it should be no problem, be sure you have everything working on trailer (lights, brakes, emergency switch, etc.) because you will get pulled over and these Patrols are NOT cheap.
04-06-2007, 07:55 AM
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The other thing, when you sart getting upwards of 7000 pounds my 47RE has a hard time from a dead stop going up a hill. These stock transmissions have no lockup in 2nd. So, you may find it difficult when you have to stop at a light or stopsign then have to climb a steep grade. With the OD off, you have to get the truck moving to 37mph before she will shift into 3rd.
The engine has the power to pull it, but an unlocked TQ will prevent you from accelerating like you want to.
You will see what I talking about when you try it.
I'm working on a temporary fix by a cheap mod to my stock valve body to lock it in 2nd.
Next winter I'm going for either a goerend auto or a 5 speed conversion.
The engine has the power to pull it, but an unlocked TQ will prevent you from accelerating like you want to.
You will see what I talking about when you try it.
I'm working on a temporary fix by a cheap mod to my stock valve body to lock it in 2nd.
Next winter I'm going for either a goerend auto or a 5 speed conversion.
04-06-2007, 01:36 PM
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Hello Everyone,
As you can see I purchased my 97 over 1 month ago, and just bought a 7000 GVW car trailer today as I am going to be periodically towing some classic cars. This weekend will be my maiden voyage, and I have never towed anything in my life!!!!
Some questions:
I decided to purchase a trailer brake for my truck, my friend has been debating this with me all week because he swears up and down that you don't need one. I however, felt I would be in a much safer position with one as the cars from the 50's and 60's are heavy. Is he right? Could I have gotten by without a trailer brake?
Secondly, I have an automatic trans, with a full load, what is the best way for me to be towing, should I start the vehicle in low gear, take it up to a certain RPM's, then shift into the next gear etc?? What about when I am approaching an incline/grade, am I going to have to down shift? I would hate to down shift and rev the engine to high etc.
Finally, Gas mileage? I have only driven the truck about 300-350 miles so far and it seems to be getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 17 MPG not towing. What do you think one would expect to get gas mileage wise if you are pulling a fully loaded 7000 GVW trailer??
Thanks for taking the time to read my post and answer some questions,
Regards,
Steve
As you can see I purchased my 97 over 1 month ago, and just bought a 7000 GVW car trailer today as I am going to be periodically towing some classic cars. This weekend will be my maiden voyage, and I have never towed anything in my life!!!!
Some questions:
I decided to purchase a trailer brake for my truck, my friend has been debating this with me all week because he swears up and down that you don't need one. I however, felt I would be in a much safer position with one as the cars from the 50's and 60's are heavy. Is he right? Could I have gotten by without a trailer brake?
Secondly, I have an automatic trans, with a full load, what is the best way for me to be towing, should I start the vehicle in low gear, take it up to a certain RPM's, then shift into the next gear etc?? What about when I am approaching an incline/grade, am I going to have to down shift? I would hate to down shift and rev the engine to high etc.
Finally, Gas mileage? I have only driven the truck about 300-350 miles so far and it seems to be getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 17 MPG not towing. What do you think one would expect to get gas mileage wise if you are pulling a fully loaded 7000 GVW trailer??
Thanks for taking the time to read my post and answer some questions,
Regards,
Steve
Second. Let the tranny do the shifting the only thing I advise here is if your truck has an on/off switch for over drive shut the over drive off while towing, especially a heavy load. With an empty trailer the OD on should be OK.
The mileage you get will depend on a aweful lot of variables driving style, terrain, load, weather. So it's really hard to say what you'll get.
