Has, or does anyone recaulk the roof of their rv's? And if so what kind of caulk do you use?

Thanks, Tony

 

If it is a rubber roof, you need Dicor self leveling sealant.....available at your local dealer. Ours has it for about $8 a tube.

 

Never, never use silicone.
Go to any RV dealer - they will know exactly what you need.

 

Thanks both of you...I was about to ask why not silicone.

 

I got a bucket of coating from a roofing supplier but they were out of caulk so they told me to go to a hw store and get any waterbase elastameric caulk. I even found one at true value that's ok'd for rubber roofs. They even had the self leveling stuff in buckets. Craig

 

x2. BUT order it off the internet. I don't remember where, but I found it for $3 a tube instead of about $8 a tube. Just watch the shipping charges.

 

M1 type on this link. If you want to have it delivered but ,as said, go to any RV shop to find also.

http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-stru...lant-1090.html

 

I haven't done it on my new 5er yet but will this summer. I am using Eternabond tape, it has to be done one time and then you are good to go except for inspections. With the caulk you are supposed to do it every year.

This is where I got it. I don't have any connection with this company but I like the product. http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx Read up and see if you want to try it. I have used the tape to repair edges and my neighbor has repaired tears in the roof. I had my edges on my last 5er not leak for at least 2 years after putting on the tape. I tried one of the elastomeric sealants on the edges and it didn't work very well for me. Maybe my prep wasn't good but I couldn't get it to fill in the gaps.

 

If you use a calking, I'd highly recommend Dicor brand self-leveling lap sealant.

Rubber RV roofs are an EDPM membrane, which can resist sun damage better than normal rubber (likely for the life of the trailer) but anything containing petrolium products can attack the membrane and ruin it.

If you go over to Dicor.com and click on Installation Information, they say that mineral spirits dampened on a cloth can be used to remove stubborn stains. (Also says DO NOT USE ACETONE).

I've found that wiping the area to be resealed with Mineral Spirits after carefully removing the old sealant seems to make the new sealant cling better. It seems to remove all traces of oil from your fingers or whatever, and it dries almost instantly.

 

Will the M1 work good for the sides of the RV? As in around all the screw strips, and around the window frames. It doesn't mention fiberglass among all the materials it's good for.

 

Unleaded gas works very good too but at the price of fuel these days who's gonna use it to clean

 

For Around Windows ,trim , Doors, Gutters Ect. My Rv Guy Sold Me A Product Called "plastec".

 

The M1 will work for the whole coach but several of the windows may have gaskets rather than caulk. My emergency exit window is a gasket so check real well. New gasket is the way to go there. Use mineral spirits for cleaning. Easy to get and won't hurt anything. Only way to do windows right is to get new caulk or gasket UNDER the edge of the window. This is a lot more trouble but it will hold much better as the coach flexes while being towed. Looks better too. Used to build these things in Florida and we did this for all leak repairs in order to not see the thing come back on us.

 

Winnebago uses manus bond theres a self leaving and a standard go to the manus web sight

 

There is one person I know, thats on this fourm that does this every year.

Send FiverBob a PM and ask him. I'm supprised he's not already responded to this.

Dave