Reasons to repack wheel bearings properly
07-16-2011, 03:43 PM
#16
Registered User
One thing I am good at is steering a topic off course.
Speaking of wheel bearings, who here is taking their front abs sensors out and shooting grease in there to give their unit bearings on their trucks a bit more longevity? I can start a new topic on this but since its kind of related, I thought I would ask.
Speaking of wheel bearings, who here is taking their front abs sensors out and shooting grease in there to give their unit bearings on their trucks a bit more longevity? I can start a new topic on this but since its kind of related, I thought I would ask.
I looked into this since other people where doing it. My main concern is the grease. Some greases are not compatible with others. Not knowing what the factory grease is adding grease that may not be compatible may cause more harm than good.
MikeyB
07-16-2011, 06:33 PM
#17
Old Mopar Aficionado Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North West Jorsey
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Valvolene Red Grease seems to be the best I have ever found. It's a high temp grease. But you're supposed to wash the bearings before repacking anyway
07-16-2011, 09:04 PM
#18
Top's Younger Twin
Several of the old RV haulers I know that have unit bearings in their trucks claim they use just plain old regular grease...I bet there are several plain old regular greases out there. I could see a reaction or separation of the greases if one was more heat resistant then the other.
I think I am leaning towards a free spin kit with servicable bearings on my truck when the time comes.
OK, back to topic. Sorry for the stray.
I think I am leaning towards a free spin kit with servicable bearings on my truck when the time comes.
OK, back to topic. Sorry for the stray.
07-16-2011, 09:14 PM
#19
Old Mopar Aficionado Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North West Jorsey
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Several of the old RV haulers I know that have unit bearings in their trucks claim they use just plain old regular grease...I bet there are several plain old regular greases out there. I could see a reaction or separation of the greases if one was more heat resistant then the other.
I think I am leaning towards a free spin kit with servicable bearings on my truck when the time comes.
OK, back to topic. Sorry for the stray.
I think I am leaning towards a free spin kit with servicable bearings on my truck when the time comes.
OK, back to topic. Sorry for the stray.
07-31-2011, 05:14 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you take one hub off to find the part number for the seals or are all trailer seals the same and parts store knew what you needed?
damman
07-31-2011, 05:56 PM
#21
With age comes the cage
I don't personally have them
I have a friend with a 26 foot boat. The trailer came with discs. I've rebuilt those axles several times in the last 2 years.
The calipers leak, the pads wear down fast, the rotors warp. Awful mess
The trailer stops OK, but the quality of the parts is the issue. These things don't have to even get wet to cause trouble. They seem ti be rated properly
Yes they are rated correctly. I think it has allot to do with the surge setup and we live in allot of rolling hills. But even so, I bought the best calipers i could ge and the seals were leaking before the end of the season. The dust boots were full of fluid. You would think they would be better. But my trailer is heavier under a load, I have way more miles on it with the original brakes. They's still 50%!
I have a friend with a 26 foot boat. The trailer came with discs. I've rebuilt those axles several times in the last 2 years.
The calipers leak, the pads wear down fast, the rotors warp. Awful mess
The trailer stops OK, but the quality of the parts is the issue. These things don't have to even get wet to cause trouble. They seem ti be rated properly
Yes they are rated correctly. I think it has allot to do with the surge setup and we live in allot of rolling hills. But even so, I bought the best calipers i could ge and the seals were leaking before the end of the season. The dust boots were full of fluid. You would think they would be better. But my trailer is heavier under a load, I have way more miles on it with the original brakes. They's still 50%!
08-03-2011, 01:17 AM
#22
Registered User
There are several seal sizes on trailer axles, but my local parts store stocks most of them so I can just pop in with an old one.
Alternately, there should be a tin tag on the axles that identifies them.
Both Al-KO and Dexter have well written service manuals on their web pages, and good parts manuals.
Alternately, there should be a tin tag on the axles that identifies them.
Both Al-KO and Dexter have well written service manuals on their web pages, and good parts manuals.
08-03-2011, 07:14 AM
#23
Old Mopar Aficionado Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North West Jorsey
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-03-2011, 07:16 AM
#24
Old Mopar Aficionado Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North West Jorsey
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-03-2011, 07:53 AM
#25
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
Posts: 2,187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One thing I am good at is steering a topic off course.
Speaking of wheel bearings, who here is taking their front abs sensors out and shooting grease in there to give their unit bearings on their trucks a bit more longevity? I can start a new topic on this but since its kind of related, I thought I would ask.
Speaking of wheel bearings, who here is taking their front abs sensors out and shooting grease in there to give their unit bearings on their trucks a bit more longevity? I can start a new topic on this but since its kind of related, I thought I would ask.
08-03-2011, 12:29 PM
#26
With age comes the cage
1. Yes the surge brake controller is the main problem.
2. Disc brakes are the best set-up out there (that's why they are on the corner of just about every vehicle made) Thank You! Preston Tucker..
3. D is for Dexter Axles w/Disc brakes
4. C is for Carlisle elc/hyd brake actuator
The pics says it all, start at post 22 here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t213006p2.html
08-03-2011, 04:14 PM
#27
Old Mopar Aficionado Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North West Jorsey
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If they made an electric Disc, I would have them
Nobody has that mastered yet. Like I mentioned, the start to leak on this guys trailer in one season. He's had a couple sieze too. The surge is an issue. But I've done OK with drums. 100,000 miles and still have 50% linings.
Nobody has that mastered yet. Like I mentioned, the start to leak on this guys trailer in one season. He's had a couple sieze too. The surge is an issue. But I've done OK with drums. 100,000 miles and still have 50% linings.
08-03-2011, 05:11 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are several seal sizes on trailer axles, but my local parts store stocks most of them so I can just pop in with an old one.
Alternately, there should be a tin tag on the axles that identifies them.
Both Al-KO and Dexter have well written service manuals on their web pages, and good parts manuals.
Alternately, there should be a tin tag on the axles that identifies them.
Both Al-KO and Dexter have well written service manuals on their web pages, and good parts manuals.
08-03-2011, 05:35 PM
#29
With age comes the cage
If they made an electric Disc, I would have them
Nobody has that mastered yet. Like I mentioned, the start to leak on this guys trailer in one season. He's had a couple sieze too. The surge is an issue. But I've done OK with drums. 100,000 miles and still have 50% linings.
Nobody has that mastered yet. Like I mentioned, the start to leak on this guys trailer in one season. He's had a couple sieze too. The surge is an issue. But I've done OK with drums. 100,000 miles and still have 50% linings.
What brand of axles / replacement parts is he using ? how often does he flush the fluids? There is way to many unanswered questions here (the main one is the surge brake controller, when was it serviced/rebuilt last? They have moving parts), that is why I shook my head..
How many 10K passes do you tow on? how many 30-45% grades do you drop off of with a load of pipe on behind you? Disc brakes are self adjusting, run / cool a lot quicker and are a lot easier to change out.. I don't see any truck manufactures that offer a retrofit kit for disc back to drum brakes..
08-03-2011, 06:31 PM
#30
Old Mopar Aficionado Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North West Jorsey
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh by no means am I arguing with you. His is a boat trailer. Mine is a 10,000 car trailer at 26 feet.
Not sure of the maker on the spindles. He gets the parts and i do the work. He's kind of stuck with what's under the trailer unless he goes to bigger TB's, obviously.
I flush the system every year. My mind is where yours is on that. . . . Using DOT4 fluid which seems to work a bit better than the OE stuff. (2). I also pressure bleed the system and blow 2 quarts doing it too. We atleast stopped the siezing.
I think his brakes are too small. The spindles are 5 lug so I am assuming they are 1300# spindles. His 26 footer is an older boat so I know it's heavy. He has torsion bar suspension. You can tell when the trailer is on the ground. Basically, the whole system is a POS.
My loads run about 9 to 10K aveage. The trailer is almost 4K bare. Throw a 4600 to 6600 pound car or truck on there and it's pretty heavy. I don't do the 45* ramps, heaven forbid with a rolling load. Once I relieve the binders, I could snap a cable and be chasing that thing for miles.
That's the good thing about the diesels, exhaust braking, compression braking, all comes in real handy. I'm not hard on brakes, but I take exceptional care of them. I inspect all 4 wheels every year, check and repack the wheel bearings every 2. My trailering days are coming to an end. Or i thought. . . Retiring, My wife and I are looking at a 24 foot travel trailer now. Bring the potty with me.
I want solid axles, not torsion bars.
I have to look into that manufacturer. Must be recent they came out with them. I'd do that with the travel trailer. They're like towing a parachute.
Not sure of the maker on the spindles. He gets the parts and i do the work. He's kind of stuck with what's under the trailer unless he goes to bigger TB's, obviously.
I flush the system every year. My mind is where yours is on that. . . . Using DOT4 fluid which seems to work a bit better than the OE stuff. (2). I also pressure bleed the system and blow 2 quarts doing it too. We atleast stopped the siezing.
I think his brakes are too small. The spindles are 5 lug so I am assuming they are 1300# spindles. His 26 footer is an older boat so I know it's heavy. He has torsion bar suspension. You can tell when the trailer is on the ground. Basically, the whole system is a POS.
My loads run about 9 to 10K aveage. The trailer is almost 4K bare. Throw a 4600 to 6600 pound car or truck on there and it's pretty heavy. I don't do the 45* ramps, heaven forbid with a rolling load.
Once I relieve the binders, I could snap a cable and be chasing that thing for miles.That's the good thing about the diesels, exhaust braking, compression braking, all comes in real handy. I'm not hard on brakes, but I take exceptional care of them. I inspect all 4 wheels every year, check and repack the wheel bearings every 2. My trailering days are coming to an end. Or i thought. . . Retiring, My wife and I are looking at a 24 foot travel trailer now. Bring the potty with me.
I want solid axles, not torsion bars.
I have to look into that manufacturer. Must be recent they came out with them. I'd do that with the travel trailer. They're like towing a parachute.