Putting in gravel RV parking spot. Advice?
Putting in gravel RV parking spot. Advice?
As soon as I get a couple big elms removed, I'm going to put down some gravel in the yard where I park the 5th wheel (currently over dead grass).
What kind of under layer/barrier should I put down, what kind of rock would pack down well and look nice, and how much rock do I need per area of pad?
I've heard people talk about 3/4 minus, and 3/4 reject, but I don't know anything about this stuff, or what those terms mean...
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
What kind of under layer/barrier should I put down, what kind of rock would pack down well and look nice, and how much rock do I need per area of pad?
I've heard people talk about 3/4 minus, and 3/4 reject, but I don't know anything about this stuff, or what those terms mean...
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
If your going to move the 5er alot in winter you will want a min. of 4" of class 2 base rock (used under all road ways) then drive over it to help it compact or rent a small roller . if its just to park on and sit
you can just wheel roll it with your truck . but I recommend 4" any ways
you can just wheel roll it with your truck . but I recommend 4" any ways
It will probably sit in the winter, but I do have to turn hard to make it into my parking spot, and it is a triple axle.
What is class 2 base rock?
Can someone define 3/4 reject, 3/4 minus, and 3/4 fractured?
What are the differences in how they pack, and any idea on price?
What is class 2 base rock?
Can someone define 3/4 reject, 3/4 minus, and 3/4 fractured?
What are the differences in how they pack, and any idea on price?
Recycled asphalt in my parking area which is inside a pole barn but still, packs well and resistant to weeds, in fact my whole drive is this, it's great and fairly cheap depending on your area.
class 2 base ( sometimes called 3/4 minus)is washed then crushed and screened from 3/4" to minus
most of the dirt is removed in the process. almost every aggregate yard will have it . its also called base rock . 3/4"fractured is just that
all the fines are screened out .its very clean to walk on but will all ways move around (no minus to bind) 3/4 reject will work as it is out of spec. to meet GOV. standards for road way sub grades you can also get recycled base .made from old asphalt and concrete works good too. you want to stay with 3/4" any thing bigger will be hard on tires
most of the dirt is removed in the process. almost every aggregate yard will have it . its also called base rock . 3/4"fractured is just that
all the fines are screened out .its very clean to walk on but will all ways move around (no minus to bind) 3/4 reject will work as it is out of spec. to meet GOV. standards for road way sub grades you can also get recycled base .made from old asphalt and concrete works good too. you want to stay with 3/4" any thing bigger will be hard on tires
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I did this, this summer.
First I hit the entire area with Round up. Then I had 3-4" of dirt and grass removed. Next step was 4" of road grade gravel for it and the area for the concrete pad for the shop. Then I had 16 yards of crusher dust dumped and spread. Its very firm and well settled out there now.
I had to add another 10 yards of gravel for the shop pad and I now have MP50 6" concrete pad there. I went 8" thick around three sides of the pad too.
Just finishing up the bifold gates for the rv area.
Got the prefab shop coming in Nov. BRrrrrrR
First I hit the entire area with Round up. Then I had 3-4" of dirt and grass removed. Next step was 4" of road grade gravel for it and the area for the concrete pad for the shop. Then I had 16 yards of crusher dust dumped and spread. Its very firm and well settled out there now.
I had to add another 10 yards of gravel for the shop pad and I now have MP50 6" concrete pad there. I went 8" thick around three sides of the pad too.
Just finishing up the bifold gates for the rv area.

Got the prefab shop coming in Nov. BRrrrrrR
I would put down underlayment, it's a cloth you put under anywhere you put a road that has not been drivin on, it will keep your rock from sinking in the mud. it's not expensive and well worth it. my driveway is 1,500 ft long and you can tell by looking where i stoped using it. then i would make an edging using landscape timbers, railroad ties, landscaping rocks and fill it with 2 to 3 in rock. no little stuff, mud and leaf litter can clog up the small stuff and it will hold water not good. my .02
Dar
Dar
Someone told me about some sort of underlayment, but I wasn't sure what to use.
I know the local place has been crushing a bunch of highway barriers (believe it or not, the Columbia Gorge Scenic Act folks are making them put in shorter, tanish center barrier on parts of the freeway).
Maybe I should see about 3 inches of base rock, and a couple inches of the crushed concrete? Or would that be messy to walk on?
Anyway, thanks everyone for helping educate me a bit.
I know the local place has been crushing a bunch of highway barriers (believe it or not, the Columbia Gorge Scenic Act folks are making them put in shorter, tanish center barrier on parts of the freeway).
Maybe I should see about 3 inches of base rock, and a couple inches of the crushed concrete? Or would that be messy to walk on?
Anyway, thanks everyone for helping educate me a bit.
I used the thickest mat I could find, for a weed and grass blocker, built a boarder of treated wood, then put down a crushed shale, leveled and watered then got one of those rental packers you walk behind, it is like cement. Did my driveway this way also, shale will pack way better than gravel. and thats my .2c worth.
Our soil/gumbo here does not require the underlay. When the little bit of topsoil is gone and we are at the gumbo/clay, its ready for the gravel. Other areas, yes, underlay to hold the gravel from being absorbed as well as a deterrent to weeds and grass.
What would you use, and where would you buy it?
Someone suggested a mat used in road building, but a buddy of mine in that field suggested not to use that because it is so stiff, and apparently is intended for use under pavement where it ends up like 9" or more under the surface?
Someone suggested a mat used in road building, but a buddy of mine in that field suggested not to use that because it is so stiff, and apparently is intended for use under pavement where it ends up like 9" or more under the surface?



