Protecting Radiators from Gravel & Bugs
I just bought a Dodge 2500 Ram Cummins 6 Diesel Quad Cab to haul my trailer up the Alaska Highway next June. While camping locally (So. Calif.) last weekend another truck owner told me I needed to protect my radiators from bugs and gravel. He suggested I put 1/4" hardware wire inside my hood grill. Another camper suggested I get a metal pipe grill guard with headlight protection and put the 1/4" hardware wire behind the grill guard.
QUESTIONS:
1. Should I be concerned about the possible restriction of airflow by using the 1/4" hardware wire?
2. What would you do to deal with the bugs and gravel?
3. Also, have you heard of 3-M film to protect headlights? Does it work?
4. I'm confused about how long to idle the diesel engine before I turn it off. Are there any guidelines you can offer? (Also, how long should I idle before driving?)
I know these are quite a few questions, but I am a new diesel owner and need some help. Thanks in advance.
QUESTIONS:
1. Should I be concerned about the possible restriction of airflow by using the 1/4" hardware wire?
2. What would you do to deal with the bugs and gravel?
3. Also, have you heard of 3-M film to protect headlights? Does it work?
4. I'm confused about how long to idle the diesel engine before I turn it off. Are there any guidelines you can offer? (Also, how long should I idle before driving?)
I know these are quite a few questions, but I am a new diesel owner and need some help. Thanks in advance.
Welcome to the DTR - the best group of like-minded truck owners to be found.
Answers:
1) The radiator is overkill - hardware cloth will not affect the cooling except under extreme temperatures. Probably not a concern going up the AlCan.
2)Rocks and gravel, however, are a dire concern. Whatever you can do to protect the radiator will be worth the effort. A full brush guard with screeen would not be out of the question. If I ever take my Scout or my CTD up the AlCan (a dream of mine) it will be with a very good rock shield up front.
3) Not sure exactly which film you are talking about but anything to protect the lenses is good. The peel-off film they use on NASCAR and military helo windshields in the sandbox should be good enough.
4) After towing hard let the engine idle in NEUTRAL for at least 5 minutes to let the turbo/exhaust cool down to under 300*F pre-turbo. This also lets the transmission (if it is an auto) shed some heat.
Fill in your signature so we know what yaer/drivetrain combo you have.
PS - I more than a little envy you going up the AlCan.
Answers:
1) The radiator is overkill - hardware cloth will not affect the cooling except under extreme temperatures. Probably not a concern going up the AlCan.
2)Rocks and gravel, however, are a dire concern. Whatever you can do to protect the radiator will be worth the effort. A full brush guard with screeen would not be out of the question. If I ever take my Scout or my CTD up the AlCan (a dream of mine) it will be with a very good rock shield up front.
3) Not sure exactly which film you are talking about but anything to protect the lenses is good. The peel-off film they use on NASCAR and military helo windshields in the sandbox should be good enough.
4) After towing hard let the engine idle in NEUTRAL for at least 5 minutes to let the turbo/exhaust cool down to under 300*F pre-turbo. This also lets the transmission (if it is an auto) shed some heat.
Fill in your signature so we know what yaer/drivetrain combo you have.
PS - I more than a little envy you going up the AlCan.
JimA....Usually if I'm not towing I shut it down right away. If it's a hot summer day and I've been highway driving I give it about 3 or 4 minutes at idle.
If I'm towing when I stop I give it at least 5 minutes at idle before shutting down.
The idea is you want to move the hot oil away from the Turbo bearing and prevent damaging it. I think there's information on this in the owners manual.
Hope this helps.
If I'm towing when I stop I give it at least 5 minutes at idle before shutting down.
The idea is you want to move the hot oil away from the Turbo bearing and prevent damaging it. I think there's information on this in the owners manual.
Hope this helps.
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
Jim,
The first thing you want to do before going is to install an exhaust gas temp gauge (EGT's). You do not want to be towing up a long hill and not know that temp.
I just returned from 5 months trip in Alaska. If you are on the Alaska highway (no longer called the Alcan), you will probably not have to worry if you just slow down in the few non-paved areas. I did put in a hardware screen behind my grille. Some people make elaborate PVC pipe framed thingies with hardware cloth they put over the front of the truck. Unless you are going on Cassier or up thru Chicken, probably no longer necessary. Be sure to spray that wire black before you install it.
Bugs and gravel - - you just "deal" with it. Carry window cleaner and towels in the truck. When you get there, go into a pay-as-you-use car wash with the power wand and spray out under the fenders, etc.
I put the 3M Scotchcal on the front of my dually fenders and painted running boards. It definitely helps, but don't do it if your truck is white - - every seam shows. It will probably clean up - - haven't had time to try. It is expensive. I did not do the headlights - - I do not think it would help. I did get on rock into my fender just above the headlight. This was from a truck going the other way on a wonderful paved highway.
Idling - - get the EGT gauge - - when the temp drops below 300 degrees, turn it off.
You will want to consider the front of the trailer - - good stiff mud flaps and something across the front of the trailer. I put a bra on the front of my fiver - - really helps. The little grass skirt hanging off the back of the truck is useless.
Bob
The first thing you want to do before going is to install an exhaust gas temp gauge (EGT's). You do not want to be towing up a long hill and not know that temp.
I just returned from 5 months trip in Alaska. If you are on the Alaska highway (no longer called the Alcan), you will probably not have to worry if you just slow down in the few non-paved areas. I did put in a hardware screen behind my grille. Some people make elaborate PVC pipe framed thingies with hardware cloth they put over the front of the truck. Unless you are going on Cassier or up thru Chicken, probably no longer necessary. Be sure to spray that wire black before you install it.
Bugs and gravel - - you just "deal" with it. Carry window cleaner and towels in the truck. When you get there, go into a pay-as-you-use car wash with the power wand and spray out under the fenders, etc.
I put the 3M Scotchcal on the front of my dually fenders and painted running boards. It definitely helps, but don't do it if your truck is white - - every seam shows. It will probably clean up - - haven't had time to try. It is expensive. I did not do the headlights - - I do not think it would help. I did get on rock into my fender just above the headlight. This was from a truck going the other way on a wonderful paved highway.
Idling - - get the EGT gauge - - when the temp drops below 300 degrees, turn it off.
You will want to consider the front of the trailer - - good stiff mud flaps and something across the front of the trailer. I put a bra on the front of my fiver - - really helps. The little grass skirt hanging off the back of the truck is useless.
Bob
Welcome to the site Jim, here's my 2 cents on your questions....when I bought my truck in AK a couple years ago, the first thing I did to it after removing the silencer ring and muffler was cut a piece of nylon screen and zip tie it to the round tube frame behind the grill. Since 2003 I've only replaced it once, and it has worked perfect to protect the rad.
When we drove down in April from Palmer, AK I really had no problems with rocks...that is until somwhere just north of Billings, MT a big rig threw a rock and blew out the front window on my truck camper. At least there was a plexiglass inside window a couple inces behind the glass so it kept the snow out. Anyway I wouldn't worry about doing too much other than a piece of screen....be more concerned about your windshield
Just try slowing down a little and give the big rigs as much room as possible.
I've seen some people use clear packing tape to hold a square of bubble wrap over their headlights...that way, they're somewhat protected, but light still goes through.
Redramnc covered the idle question.
Enjoy your trip
When we drove down in April from Palmer, AK I really had no problems with rocks...that is until somwhere just north of Billings, MT a big rig threw a rock and blew out the front window on my truck camper. At least there was a plexiglass inside window a couple inces behind the glass so it kept the snow out. Anyway I wouldn't worry about doing too much other than a piece of screen....be more concerned about your windshield
Just try slowing down a little and give the big rigs as much room as possible.I've seen some people use clear packing tape to hold a square of bubble wrap over their headlights...that way, they're somewhat protected, but light still goes through.
Redramnc covered the idle question.
Enjoy your trip
Jim - I agree with what the other guys have said here. DEFINITELY get the appropriate gauges for your truck. I just installed mine a few weeks ago FINALLY and I really appreciate the information they provide. I did find that I was probably idling the truck longer than I had to for cooldown purposes, but hey, I'm not using as much fuel now :-) Take a look at my pics for the gauges.
As far as the protection goes - here are a couple of links that might be helpful:
1) Grill guard - you can get one from Geno's for the 03 and 04 trucks - I'm not sure if a different one is required for the 05 and up trucks - call Geno's and ask them: http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=1475&DID=30
2) Headlight protection - here are some lens covers - though again, I'm not sure if they have them for the 05 and up trucks yet: http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...D=1511&CATID=1
As far as the protection goes - here are a couple of links that might be helpful:
1) Grill guard - you can get one from Geno's for the 03 and 04 trucks - I'm not sure if a different one is required for the 05 and up trucks - call Geno's and ask them: http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=1475&DID=30
2) Headlight protection - here are some lens covers - though again, I'm not sure if they have them for the 05 and up trucks yet: http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...D=1511&CATID=1
I have the 3M clear on my entire grille, the rocker panels, the front lip of the hood and the dually fenders.
The radiator idea that SunnybuglessBob mentioned is what I did. I used some vinyl window screen and attached it to the back side of the grill. Whenever it gets overwhelmed with bugs and its not going to come completely clean, I discard and put a new one on.
As for the bugs. I have seen many different ways to beat them.
One friend of mine sprays PAM on the front of his truck for long highway trips.
I use Spray 9 before I go to the pressure washer and again when I get there on all the bugs. They are literally melting off the truck. You will need a good glass cleaner whether you use Spray 9 or not.
I think Spray 9 is available only in Canada eh. Safe on all the trucks I have owned too.
It works better then Simple Green for the bugs.
Scotty
The radiator idea that SunnybuglessBob mentioned is what I did. I used some vinyl window screen and attached it to the back side of the grill. Whenever it gets overwhelmed with bugs and its not going to come completely clean, I discard and put a new one on.
As for the bugs. I have seen many different ways to beat them.
One friend of mine sprays PAM on the front of his truck for long highway trips.
I use Spray 9 before I go to the pressure washer and again when I get there on all the bugs. They are literally melting off the truck. You will need a good glass cleaner whether you use Spray 9 or not.
I think Spray 9 is available only in Canada eh. Safe on all the trucks I have owned too.
It works better then Simple Green for the bugs.
Scotty
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Like others have mentioned I have just used window screen in front of my rad. I zip tied it on the front of the rad so that when I open the hood it is there in front of the rad. When I wash the truck I just pop the hood and spray the screen off as well. I used some type of nylon/fabric window screen. Been using the same one for 160k now. It is need of replacement now though.
I did the Kilby guard like Geno's has, but I got it direct from kilby's since it was cheaper there at the time (looks to be priced the same now). I think there is a photo with a link in my gallery.
Window screen will probably accomplish the same thing (except for a really big rock), a lot cheaper.
I also put the 3M film on my fog lights after loosing one to a rock. Never damaged one since, so it does work...
Window screen will probably accomplish the same thing (except for a really big rock), a lot cheaper.
I also put the 3M film on my fog lights after loosing one to a rock. Never damaged one since, so it does work...
Follow-up Questions
Thanks to everyone for jumping in and giving me this great info! My truck is a standard transmission which I actually enjoy. I do notice I drive a lot slower--must be the gear ratio I think.
1. Great advice about ETG. Do I need to have dealer put it on to keep my warranty intact? FiverBob refers to knowing the temp when going up a long hill. I need help understanding that. After a certain temperature, do I pull over and let it idle until it cools??
2. Is the concensus that house window screen will work or should I go with the larger air spaces on 1/4" wire? And the amount of air getting through is adequate with either? What about the reference to high temperature. Here in LA, with the global warming these days, we are getting summers hitting 100 degrees! Do I need to take off either screen or wire on hot days??
3. How long do you warm up your truck before driving? Do I look at the ETG to give me the "go time"?
Thanks. What a relief to find a place with straight answers. I was getting non-information from dealer.
1. Great advice about ETG. Do I need to have dealer put it on to keep my warranty intact? FiverBob refers to knowing the temp when going up a long hill. I need help understanding that. After a certain temperature, do I pull over and let it idle until it cools??
2. Is the concensus that house window screen will work or should I go with the larger air spaces on 1/4" wire? And the amount of air getting through is adequate with either? What about the reference to high temperature. Here in LA, with the global warming these days, we are getting summers hitting 100 degrees! Do I need to take off either screen or wire on hot days??
3. How long do you warm up your truck before driving? Do I look at the ETG to give me the "go time"?
Thanks. What a relief to find a place with straight answers. I was getting non-information from dealer.
Originally Posted by JimA
Thanks to everyone for jumping in and giving me this great info! My truck is a standard transmission which I actually enjoy. I do notice I drive a lot slower--must be the gear ratio I think.
1. Great advice about ETG. Do I need to have dealer put it on to keep my warranty intact? FiverBob refers to knowing the temp when going up a long hill. I need help understanding that. After a certain temperature, do I pull over and let it idle until it cools??
2. Is the concensus that house window screen will work or should I go with the larger air spaces on 1/4" wire? And the amount of air getting through is adequate with either? What about the reference to high temperature. Here in LA, with the global warming these days, we are getting summers hitting 100 degrees! Do I need to take off either screen or wire on hot days??
3. How long do you warm up your truck before driving? Do I look at the ETG to give me the "go time"?
Thanks. What a relief to find a place with straight answers. I was getting non-information from dealer.
1. Great advice about ETG. Do I need to have dealer put it on to keep my warranty intact? FiverBob refers to knowing the temp when going up a long hill. I need help understanding that. After a certain temperature, do I pull over and let it idle until it cools??
2. Is the concensus that house window screen will work or should I go with the larger air spaces on 1/4" wire? And the amount of air getting through is adequate with either? What about the reference to high temperature. Here in LA, with the global warming these days, we are getting summers hitting 100 degrees! Do I need to take off either screen or wire on hot days??
3. How long do you warm up your truck before driving? Do I look at the ETG to give me the "go time"?
Thanks. What a relief to find a place with straight answers. I was getting non-information from dealer.
I can help out here, towing in the Rocky Mtn's a lot.
1. You can install it yourself, PRE turbo for best readings. When pulling a hill when the EGT's get up above 1250* (2nd gen) you just let up a bit on the fuel pedal to keep the EGT's in check- no need to pull over.
2. I tow in 100* temps all summer with window screen as a bug guard- no problems at all. Your biggest overheat problem will be the crankcase vent bottle on the front of the block covering the backside of the radiator with crud.
Move/replace the 'puke' bottle so it doesn't bugger up the radiator.
3. No warm up time necessary. Start it up and drive it moderately until operating temps are reached. Shut downs, however, you should wait/idle until EGT's drop to 300*.
Hope this helps...
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
RoadRanger covered EGT temps while towing well. I have been on a couple long grades while towing a 16,000# fiver that letting up a bit didn't cure the high temps - - the engine has so much torque it just keeps pulling. I had to drop back a gear so I wasn't pushing it quite so hard to keep the temps down. I use 1200 as my threshold - - I know, I'm a chicken.
There are some good threads on this forum on installing your temp guage. The probe is the hardest part of the job. Do a search and you will probably find all you need to know. If not, come back to us. There are pics posted under several guys albums that show the install. Again, holler if you need help. Scotty can give you some good info on this.
Bob
There are some good threads on this forum on installing your temp guage. The probe is the hardest part of the job. Do a search and you will probably find all you need to know. If not, come back to us. There are pics posted under several guys albums that show the install. Again, holler if you need help. Scotty can give you some good info on this.
Bob
Wow, I'm really impressed at how helpful this forum is. All of you have been extremely helpful. If I use the window screen, I can easily replace it, but then again, the 1/4" hardward wire might hold up better with the gravel.
Is there any advantage other than cost of putting the protection behind the grill/hood or installing it behind a pipe grille guard?
Do I have to take it off before I get service? Or will the dealer say my warranty is void???
Again, THANK YOU!!!!! It's nice to know I have some knowledgeable people here. Thanks. ;
PS--to avoid some of the heating up/cooling down issues, I've decided to not use the truck for grocery hops (1/4 mile), etc. I'll save it for longer (10 mile) jaunts so it can warm up properly.
Is there any advantage other than cost of putting the protection behind the grill/hood or installing it behind a pipe grille guard?
Do I have to take it off before I get service? Or will the dealer say my warranty is void???
Again, THANK YOU!!!!! It's nice to know I have some knowledgeable people here. Thanks. ;
PS--to avoid some of the heating up/cooling down issues, I've decided to not use the truck for grocery hops (1/4 mile), etc. I'll save it for longer (10 mile) jaunts so it can warm up properly.
At least with my stock motor, I haven't seen EGT's much above 12k, even when floored up a long 8% grade fully loaded, but the gauge does take the guesswork out of how long to idle before shutdown.
Warranty wise, I think if you cracked the exhaust manifold or got metal chips in the turbo when you put in the probe, there might be an issue.
Regarding overheating with protection on the radator, I'd guess the Kilby probably blocks as much air flow as any screen. It didn't make any difference in my coolant temp readings even when towing the 5er up a mountain pass on a 107 degree day... If the service department thought having it on was an issue, they have never mentioned it.
Regarding warm up, as someone pointed out, drive mellow until temps get into operating range. You actually should avoid idling longer than 4 or 5 minutes in winter temps, as the exhaust valves won't be hot enough and will build up deposits... The directions with my truck suggest running the engine up to 1000 RPM briefly right after starting in cold weather. I usually do that, then turn on the jake after oil pressure has been stable for a bit.
I wouldn't worry about the occasional short trip. I do make a point of getting it up to full temp for a bit at least once a week, though.
If you have a truck 03 or newer, you don't have a blow-by bottle to worry about.
These motors do seem to be pretty tough. Take reasonable care of it, and don't lug it down below 1600 with a load on the motor, and it will likely outlive the rest of the rig.
Warranty wise, I think if you cracked the exhaust manifold or got metal chips in the turbo when you put in the probe, there might be an issue.
Regarding overheating with protection on the radator, I'd guess the Kilby probably blocks as much air flow as any screen. It didn't make any difference in my coolant temp readings even when towing the 5er up a mountain pass on a 107 degree day... If the service department thought having it on was an issue, they have never mentioned it.
Regarding warm up, as someone pointed out, drive mellow until temps get into operating range. You actually should avoid idling longer than 4 or 5 minutes in winter temps, as the exhaust valves won't be hot enough and will build up deposits... The directions with my truck suggest running the engine up to 1000 RPM briefly right after starting in cold weather. I usually do that, then turn on the jake after oil pressure has been stable for a bit.
I wouldn't worry about the occasional short trip. I do make a point of getting it up to full temp for a bit at least once a week, though.
If you have a truck 03 or newer, you don't have a blow-by bottle to worry about.
These motors do seem to be pretty tough. Take reasonable care of it, and don't lug it down below 1600 with a load on the motor, and it will likely outlive the rest of the rig.
When I went to fire school a few years back, we were told that window screen reduces air flow as much 60%!! If you think about it, worst case scenario, you're only allowing 40% of available air into your radiator/intercooler. If it were me, I'd find something else besides windowscreen. There are plenty of products out there that are designed for this. Just something to ponder.



