My Prodigy took a dive on me. It was my back-up controller for my Brakesmart that has something wrong with it too,,,I think. But it's at home 500 mile's away. Now I'm out on the road with no trailer brake's.

My only option is Camping World. My choice's are the Prodigy, or P3. As far as I can tell from reading, the P3 is just a glorified Prodigy?? Sure it'll do hydrolic,,,but I don't care about that. Does it actually perform any better. Has anyone had both to compare. Does it have better dianostic's??

I've always said I hated my Prodigy,,,especially compared to the Brakesmart. But I sure wish I had those slam on trailer brake's tomorrow going down Monteagle. It's only a 6% grade.

 

Just installed a P3 on Thursday.....my Prodigy was acting up as well. Pulled a 600 km trip. So far, so good. I like the boost feature - just remember to turn it off when empty.

 

I have a p3 it works great just like or better then a prodigy(had prodigy)

 

If you don't have hydraulic than the P3 doesn't do anything extra.. .just get the prodigy.

 

The P-3 offers more colors to match the trucks dash lights.

I would (and did) go with the P-3 never can tell whats in the future..

 

Camping World let me exchange my Prodigy for a new P3. I just had to pay the differance in the price. Put the new controller in, and have the same issue's. I thought it must be the wiring harness. Went back in a bought that. Still a no go,,,or should I say a no stop.

According to my new dianostic screen, all though I'm getting 12 volt's, I'm not getting enough amp's for 6 magnet's. It's supposed to be 18 amp's. I can't remember now what it was, but I'm way short. So does that mean I have a wiring problem on the trailer.

This issue is on the back burner now that my trani crapped out on me today. Guess I don't need much woah, if I ain't got no go.

 

Major bummer.

By not getting enough amps, I wonder if that is on the supply side (truck wiring)?

Maybe you could hook up a fully charged battery and an amp meter directly to the trailer brake plug and see what you get?

If the trailer had an open circuit to a couple magnets, though, I would think the controller wouldn't set an error (IE that it would be within range for a 4 brake trailer)?

 

I'd be looking at the trailer and trailer brake grounds....and the truck to trailer ground.

 

I bought a volt meter. Haven't got a chance to use it yet. Let's just say I have 12 volt's at all the magnet's,,,,does that neccesarily mean I would have the full 18 amp's. Or could I have the 12 volt's and no amp's on one magnet, indicating a bad magnet. I'm haveing a hard time comprehending the amp thing. I should mention everthing is fairly new. Less than 5,000 mile's on everything.

I tried to follow the dexter axle testing procedure, but the amp part lost me. It's talking about taking the blue wire loose, and hooking the meter up in series. But you have to make sure to do it right, or you'll blow the meter.

When I push the truck brake's, it feels like the controller is set real low. Not good braking. When I use the manual brake lever, I can barly feel anything at all. No effective braking from manual at all.

 

No amps means there is no load from the trailer, as in, open circuit. Your trailer brakes are not connected to the truck's wiring harness. Some wire came undone some place. I would look for a broken wires on the axles, and also check the connector plug for pushed-in pins or corroded contacts.

 

It's not that there's no amp's,,,there's just not enough. There is supposed to be 18, and there's only say 12 or 14. I don't remember the exact number.

So does that mean some of the last brake's in line in not connected??

 

Nope,,,no code's. Just no brake's.

 

I would agree with you that one of your brakes is not activating. Is your trailer tandem axle or triple? If triple axle, then more than one is not activating. Your controller manual should tell you how many amps each magnet should pull.

 

It's a triple axle trailer. It should be pulling 18 amp's.