Ok, this is my first time towing a large trailer with a vehicle on it. I need to know if the positioning of the pickup on the trailer looks good. I know that you want the load to be more toward the tongue but in this case, how far toward the tongue? I figured that since it's a lot heavier in the front the truck wouldn't need to be too far in front of the axles of the trailer. Is this too much tongue weight? Not enough?

I know this is a very newbie question but I will be towing this truck a lot in the future and I want to make sure that I am doing it correctly from the start.

Thanks in advance.



I just like this one.

 

Looks about right to me..

 

Looks like its probably ok there, I defiantly wouldn't go back anymore. Next time try it 6" farther forward and see how you like it. If you come a cross a weigh scale try weighing it and see what the hitch weight is like.

 

Other than what the attached has said I can only offer this, you really should use chains in place of the straps. Straps can be cut or stretched very easily in and emergency stop or turn, yes chains can break but not as readily. If you do get chains look at the working load before purchasing and get yourself a cheater bar 4’ or longer or use the ratchet type of boomers

Not trying to flame you ,you did say you were new to towing and the advice is from many years of hauling anything that would fit on the trailer, plus a few things that should not have been there.

 

Both good points but if you want to save a little money you can use only 2 binders Just use chain on the front or back and roll it back or front til there tight then use 2 binders. I must admit i usualy use chain on the back and then use 2 big yellow ratchet straps on the front that way you still have the chains for stoping. But big foot is deff the rite way to do it but i know buying 4 new binders and chains istn always what you want to spend money on.
Smart men ask questions Fools learn by trial and error

 

As long as you don't exceed the weight limits and it doesn't wander on the road, you'll be fine......Ben

 

You're goal is to have the chassis of the tow vehicle to have a slight foreward slope. Not nearly as much as when it's empty, of course.

If the chassis is level or slightly tipped back, you lose steering, headlight aim, and some braking. In an emergency situation, avoidance manouvers can get hairy.

Lift the weight out of the bed, and put a level on the frame. Put the weight back and see what you get.

 

Load looks about right, you want a slight bit of weight on the truck but not to much. Alot of guys will put all of the load forward of the axles on the trailer,which puts most of the weight on the truck, ( my dad was good for this ) What good is the trailer if it dosen't carry most of the load. My opinion only, get rid of the straps, get 4 chains and boomers, put one on each corner. Straps are good for cargo but not for iron......

 

Also , it looks like your tied to the diffs. OK for a short haul, not for long distances. When you hit a bad section of highway , the trailer and the load will start bouncing and the truck suspention (load) will start hammering the trailer. Tie to the frame of the truck (load) and depress the suspention on the truck (load) so the load and trailer are tied together. It will make for a smoother ride.....

 

All good comments. Here are some more tips.

I always scaled my loads, especially if going any distance. With the gooseneck it is really easy to determine the weight on the ball since the ball is so close to the axle centerline of the tow vehicle.

Weigh the front and back of the truck empty to get your front and rear axle weights. Measure the height to the top of the rear fenderwell empty.

Weigh the loaded rig and position your rig on the scale so you have a separate read for truck front, truck rear, and trailer axles. The additional weight on the rear axle of the truck from the load on the hitch should be 12 - 15% of the total tralier weight. The total trailer weight is the trailer axle + the truck rear - the truck rear empty. The front may change a few hunderd pounds depending upon how far in front of the rear axle the hitch is located. The more weight on the hitch the more stable and the better the ride for all concerned. So for light loads you may have more in the front of the trailer up to the limit that is allowed in the bed of the truck.

Also, after weighing your loaded rig measure the squat on the rear to the top of the fenderwell and make a note that so much squat = so much load on the hitch. If you ever max out your load in the bed and measure the squat then you will easily always be able to quickly see if any load is too much on the hitch by measuring the squat. Assuming you do not have a leveling suspension like air bags!

Once you go through the scaling and squat measurement you can quickly position any load by measuring the squat.


Your load as pictured looks like it will tow well.

 

I towed it 400 miles yesterday just like it is pictured and it seemed to tow well (though I don't have much of a reference). It sounds like I have a lot to think about, and a lot to learn. I guess I will be trying some different techniques and I'll take it to a scale and see what I can derive from those numbers.

I knew this was the right place to go to learn about towing . Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions.

 

Move it forward and back a bit and find the sweet spot. Every truck and trailer is different and a few inches can make a difference. Once you know the spot, you'll feel it, whatever your load is, by the handling.

 

isn't it 10-15% for tag a longs and 20-25% weight on axles for goosenecks?

 

4' or longer cheater?? You don't like readjusting chains, do you?

 

Spend the extra coin and get ratchet boomers. Cheater pipes will eventually take out a nose, eye or a couple of teeth. I learned you should always chain to the axles so the suspension of the hauled vehicle takes care of itself.
JM.02