Is my hitch a Class 5?
Is my hitch a Class 5?
I would assume based on the ratings and the "V5" that it's a class 5, but, I never want to assume.
Here's a pic of the tag:

That means that with just a regular ball and no equalizing whatever, that it's only good to 5000 lbs? How much past that can one really go? How does that work...?
Here's a pic of the tag:

That means that with just a regular ball and no equalizing whatever, that it's only good to 5000 lbs? How much past that can one really go? How does that work...?
That hitch rating is a class 4.....I have seen many guys (including myself) pull well over 5000 lbs without a WD hitch and use the factory class 4 receiver. I'm not saying it's right.......just saying they routinely hold up to well over 5000 lbs without the WD hitch. It is the tongue weight that kills them.....1000 - 1200 lbs of tongue weight without a WD hitch WILL bend the receiver......been there, done that!
Don't go past it at all. That's the safest thing to do for all concerned--other people on the road and yourself.
You can carry up to 500 pounds tongue weight and tow up to 5000 pounds without using a weight distribution hitch. Even up to those weights, you probably won't like the way the truck handles. If you exceed these limits, it's best to stay off the major highways, limit your speed to something well below the speed limit and travel only for short distances.
You can carry up to 500 pounds tongue weight and tow up to 5000 pounds without using a weight distribution hitch. Even up to those weights, you probably won't like the way the truck handles. If you exceed these limits, it's best to stay off the major highways, limit your speed to something well below the speed limit and travel only for short distances.
I have towed a about 8K several time with the same hitch (same sicker too).
No problems so far. As CTD Nut said, I have seen guys overload the tounge though.
My drop hitch is only rated for 6K too, but with a 1" shank ball, I don't really see it snapping of.........
User beware I guess. Common sense goes a long way when towing. (I guess someone will say it's not too "senseable" to tow what I tow with the factory hitch)?
No problems so far. As CTD Nut said, I have seen guys overload the tounge though.
My drop hitch is only rated for 6K too, but with a 1" shank ball, I don't really see it snapping of.........
User beware I guess. Common sense goes a long way when towing. (I guess someone will say it's not too "senseable" to tow what I tow with the factory hitch)?
My truck handles WELL with a 5000lb tractor, 900 lb. Bush Hog & 2700 lbs. of trailer and chains.
Not saying that it is cool to do it, but I have seen much worse.
Lee, what were you towing that caused your truck to not handle well?
Not saying that it is cool to do it, but I have seen much worse.
Lee, what were you towing that caused your truck to not handle well?
Okay.
My truck handles everything I put to it well. I use weight distribution hitches and I'm under the maxium weights with everything I tow and haul. But I have towed with other vehicles that did not handle well. There's nothing like a good fishtailing trailer to convert you to lighter loads, trailer brakes and sway controls.
I simply cannot believe the posts I see every time I come to an RV or towing site where people want to exceed the limits of their equipment. It doesn't make any sense to me and it scares the bejesus out of me to think there are people out there on the same road as the rest of us, thinking they are fine with what they are doing, going along their merry way usually exceeding the speed limit, talking on the cell and checking the map all at the same time.
They're not fine. They are overstressing their equipment. And, if that's not a big deal then consider they run a pretty solid risk of legal liability in the event they are involved in an accident. When the state trooper investigates an accident, he's looking for the causes and an overloaded vehicle will stand out like a red flag on an accident report. Bingo!
People sue people in this country over anything. Shysters advertise on TV dozens of times a day, baiting people into believing that if they have an accident, they can collect thousands of dollars. And people do believe them and people do collect and lawyers get rich and insurance rates escalate, etc., etc., all because the court system is screwed and insurance companies have no backbone and people continue in not believing they're beyond their limits. (End of rant.)
My truck handles everything I put to it well. I use weight distribution hitches and I'm under the maxium weights with everything I tow and haul. But I have towed with other vehicles that did not handle well. There's nothing like a good fishtailing trailer to convert you to lighter loads, trailer brakes and sway controls.
I simply cannot believe the posts I see every time I come to an RV or towing site where people want to exceed the limits of their equipment. It doesn't make any sense to me and it scares the bejesus out of me to think there are people out there on the same road as the rest of us, thinking they are fine with what they are doing, going along their merry way usually exceeding the speed limit, talking on the cell and checking the map all at the same time.
They're not fine. They are overstressing their equipment. And, if that's not a big deal then consider they run a pretty solid risk of legal liability in the event they are involved in an accident. When the state trooper investigates an accident, he's looking for the causes and an overloaded vehicle will stand out like a red flag on an accident report. Bingo!
People sue people in this country over anything. Shysters advertise on TV dozens of times a day, baiting people into believing that if they have an accident, they can collect thousands of dollars. And people do believe them and people do collect and lawyers get rich and insurance rates escalate, etc., etc., all because the court system is screwed and insurance companies have no backbone and people continue in not believing they're beyond their limits. (End of rant.)
Oh, so it's only a class 4 then? Where does it say it? I'm assuming by the weight rating then?
I'm looking to pull about 7.5-8K. (The truck in my sig). I got a ball that is rated for 12K (2 5/16", 1.25" shank), and the hitch/tongue thing there is solid steel, rated for 10K. I'm replacing the coupler on my trailer with a bulldog I just picked up yesterday. I'm getting new wheels/tires (Chrome Modulars, Load range E tires), as well as to put some new springs on that will match the weight I need. I'm 99% sure my axles are 3.5K axles. Will there be a way to tell by looking at them, or anything I can measure to tell for sure? How much "under-rating" is on these 3.5K axles? I'm only going to haul 7.5-8K on it one time only, rest of the time it's hauling 3.5-4K on it.
As far as my reciever hitch, would I be better to get a Class 5 reciever (and who makes one?), or, should I get a weight distributing hitch? What's all involved in that?
Are these ones any good? I'm going to check locally too. What all should I look for in a good hitch, if I need to replace it (If it's better than going with weight-distribution)...
Not trying to be dangerous, otherwise I wouldn't have spent $100 on a darn ball/tongue/lock for it...
I'm looking to pull about 7.5-8K. (The truck in my sig). I got a ball that is rated for 12K (2 5/16", 1.25" shank), and the hitch/tongue thing there is solid steel, rated for 10K. I'm replacing the coupler on my trailer with a bulldog I just picked up yesterday. I'm getting new wheels/tires (Chrome Modulars, Load range E tires), as well as to put some new springs on that will match the weight I need. I'm 99% sure my axles are 3.5K axles. Will there be a way to tell by looking at them, or anything I can measure to tell for sure? How much "under-rating" is on these 3.5K axles? I'm only going to haul 7.5-8K on it one time only, rest of the time it's hauling 3.5-4K on it.
As far as my reciever hitch, would I be better to get a Class 5 reciever (and who makes one?), or, should I get a weight distributing hitch? What's all involved in that?
Are these ones any good? I'm going to check locally too. What all should I look for in a good hitch, if I need to replace it (If it's better than going with weight-distribution)...
Not trying to be dangerous, otherwise I wouldn't have spent $100 on a darn ball/tongue/lock for it...
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Here's a couple shots of the trailer. I sandblasted the welds down, and I'm taking it to a welder to reinspect all the welds front-to-back, and touch up any welds that might not have been done right.


Here I had to get my truck fixed, so I pulled the wheels off so nobody would drive off with my trailer.

Here is the coupler that I'm replacing with a Bulldog...talk about a ghetto fix, but I guess it works haha. It's got to go though. They welded the crack, then put re-bar around it and welded that on too.



Here I had to get my truck fixed, so I pulled the wheels off so nobody would drive off with my trailer.


Here is the coupler that I'm replacing with a Bulldog...talk about a ghetto fix, but I guess it works haha. It's got to go though. They welded the crack, then put re-bar around it and welded that on too.

Oh...
Draw-Tite vs. Reese vs. Valley vs. Hidden Hitch?
I can get a Valley Class V locally for $180, plus about $30 to install it, probably do that myself though.
My ball mount is a Valley, an it appears pretty darn beefy. If the Valley hitch is good quality, I'll probably just go get that one here in town...
Another trailer shot:

Draw-Tite vs. Reese vs. Valley vs. Hidden Hitch?
I can get a Valley Class V locally for $180, plus about $30 to install it, probably do that myself though.
My ball mount is a Valley, an it appears pretty darn beefy. If the Valley hitch is good quality, I'll probably just go get that one here in town...
Another trailer shot:

how bout a full replacement rear bumper?
with the reciever tube already in it? I have had no experience with those hitches, I do hear that valley is a great brand... Try quality trailers in san antonio, or southwest tire and wheel.... they will know whats right for ur needs..
Tx
with the reciever tube already in it? I have had no experience with those hitches, I do hear that valley is a great brand... Try quality trailers in san antonio, or southwest tire and wheel.... they will know whats right for ur needs..
Tx
Dollar for dollar, you are ahead of the game to get yourself the class 5 receiver and keep your existing hitch and ball. Your truck certainly does not need a WD hitch to handle the tongue weight of a 8000 lb load if you have the appropriate receiver. A good WD hitch will cost at least double that of the class 5 receiver and it doesn't sound like you will be towing the kind of weight that would justify the WD hitch. Now, if you start towing stuff up and over 10,000 lbs where the tongue weight is 1000 lbs +, you will probably appreciate the way the truck handles with the WD hitch.
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