I've tranny swapped from a manual to an auto on another truck I have and it was involved. Looking back I dont think I'd bother doing it again unless there was no other option. But in saying that, with these trucks there are more variables to be concerned with than just the swap and all it entails. The manual trucks were equipped with the Dana 80 instead of the Dana 70, and usually the manuals came with the HD transfer cases. This means that if you install a manual where an auto was you could essentially place more shock load stress on the automatic drivetrain. The differences are not always this simple too as some trucks are equipped considerably different as an auto and a manual. This is of course just my opinion but if you have an auto then I'd just have it built or buy a fully built custom version. Yes they can be expensive ($3-5k) but they can handle just about anything. Manuals aren't bullet proof either and need their own level of attention to assure they hold up to the weight and HP.

 

I moved a 16x80 Mobil home with mine. I was going down a gravel road and started out in 4L but when I saw how good it was pulling I put it back in 2H. Granted I never got over 30mph, but the truck did great!

 

Used my Dad's 2001(see sig) to pull an 18k GN from Utah to Alberta. Dually with 3.55s. Even with the tranny mods it was pushing the limits. I think I even slipped the lockup clutch once. Had to keep the power at almost stock otherwise the EGTs would climb and the tranny would start to act up. I only did it the once, wouldn't do it again if I had the choice.

By comparison by 2003 with 4.10s and 6spd manual pulls it like a freight train. Gearing is your friend.

 

I had to go a long way to find this one.. That thread by far was one of the best on DTR. https://www.google.com/search?q=Dies...ml%3B600%3B450

 

^^^^ and it didn't even involve the death of a shrew.

 

I stepped on a few dead ones and tripped over a concrete bedliner while watching a plane try and take of from a conveyor but I finally found it.

 

Other than telling you that you can tow more, maybe 15k on a regular basis, they have not discussed the essetial needed upgrades.
1. Fuel presuure gauge between FF & VP44. Other gauges, boost & exhast optional, but needed with hp mods.
2. Improved shocks- Bilsteins
3. LP- stock is a POS Carter lots of reading on that. These things have destroyed 10's of thousands of VP. Airtex builds a relatively inexpensive repacement, which should be used with a simple 70-90 micron prefilter from Summit. There is lots of reading on LP repacements with filter combo's, some very expensive. My $.02 is the Airtex works OK. You can buy a spare for what the others charge. Check Google. The big line kit moves the LP from the engine to the frame by the fuel tank, a good move. Makes it easier to chnage the LP. All of these eventuaally fail, regardless of what they say. so that is why you need to monitor FP, because if the LP fails, it will eventually weaken and/or take out the VP 44. $1000 to $1600, depending on th rebuilder.
4. Torque Converter lockup, if you did not get one.
5. Exhast Brake, if you tow mountains.
6. Good AT tires for farm/road use, mud, etc. Hopefully you rear end has limited slip.

These trucks have enough power to tow what you want. More power is nice, but keep it minimum to keep your tranny together. It is dabatable as to whehter mods will shorten the life of the VP. There is a lot of reading on that.
These are very nice trucks, very capable. Maintenance can be expensive, so start a war chest for reapirs. The truck is 13 years old.
Enjoy your truck!