KATOOM

I'm curious to know more about that. Not that I have plans to tow 20,000+ pounds off the bumper, I'm not sure how adding weight the bed would help in towing extreme weights on a tongue trailer. Knowing that the proper way is to keep 10%-15% of the trailer weight on the ball, with a setup like ramruff has pictured, that would calculate to something around 3000-3500 resting on the hitch. Unless there's a WD hitch in that photo. Or unless adding weight to the bed is a replacement of the hitch percentage. If not, I dont understand what would keep the hitch from ripping away from the truck frame.

1-2-3

Since your new here...it's from a thread that just won't die. You can read it for yourself.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ck-t42441.html

P.S. Doing this won't add any capacity to your truck

KATOOM

You're kidding right????? First off, I dont really consider myself "new" around these forums, but in defense of that, I'm not lurking around in the off-topic sections much either. And threads like the one you just linked prove why. SERIOUSLY.....I read the first 5 pages or so and clicked out while laughing. Anyone who tows anything heavier than a landscape trailer will find such thread ideas comical and dangerous. Lets just say that I answered my own question. Thanks.

1-2-3

Doh. I was reading some other threads and was thinking you were a new guy. ooops.

1-2-3

The original poster is the new guy.

KATOOM

No sweat. I just appreciate you linking that thread for me.

jhenson

A guy that use to hot-shot with me a few years ago had an '01 that had ZERO problems hauling our 26k lb loads....but he also had a 6 speed. I think you'll be fine with whatever you decide to haul.....just get gauges to monitor the engine vitals.

sean.marble

I have a 2001 dodge ram 2500 5.9 24 valve.I have stripped my motor down to the short block and rebuilt it all performance and i make just over a thousand horse now.I dont have a dual rear, i have a 5 inch lift with 410 and 35's,and i have a enclosed 40 ft. that fully loaded runs about 26K,and my flat bed that i have had two mini dozers that ran about 12K a piece ,and then about 6k for my trailer ,that ended up everything running about 30K together,My truck pulls like a champ,the only thing i really had to upgrade was my stopping capabilities on my trailer brakes,and oversized rotors and calipers on my pickup

rpausewang

http://www.dodgeram.org This site will help with questions and tech information. I appologize, but this site has changed it used to have all Dodge Ram truck diesel specifications listed. You may still find some usefull information. Ron

Ronco95

Towing heavy isn't as much as what's under the hood as what's in between your ears!

Really, adding power is the easy part. You need to consider proper tires with stiff sidewalls so you can maintain control. Adding taller tires with flexure in the sidewalls does not equate to a towing rig. Taller tires REDUCE brake torque. That's not smart either.
Then, you need a suspension that will keep all four tires on the ground and in contact with the pavement. Start with good shocks and replace them at regular intervals.
Common sense will get you further than power chips and cool tires and wheels.

jhenson

Are all of those Aerotabs really doing their job on that load Carl???? Just messing with you man. Good to see these trucks doing what they were MEANT to do. Mine is in retirement right now. Better part of a hard 300k miles of hauling and she never let me down on the job!!!!!! She's a DD now.

DodgeCowboy

Regularly hauling swathers and 6-7 tons of hay.

drdigger11

It's a 3rd gen, I have done similar pulls probably 5 other times. Truck has been a work in progress for the last 10 years, but has never stranded me in the bush, drive 1800Km to and from work every 3 weeks, cost me $225 to get to work last trip and that was not doing the speed limit. Tires have 55000Km's on them too. Pushing 400k Km's and still runs like a champ, love this truck and will never drive anything but a Cummins. Good luck with yours.

ridofpwrstroke

If you want a manual, ditch the truck and get a manual. If I were you, I would run the trans until its looking like its tired. Then rebuild it right and hold on.

When I did my 98 12v, the trans was rated for a 30k load.

On my 2002 2500, I pulled a 43k load from nebraska to alaska. About 3500 miles. Somewhere on here there is a thread about it. That truck had a six speed, g rated tires, jake brake, and twin turbos with 3.55 gears and was a work horse. Just have to take your time. now before everyone comes on here and flames me, you need to know what you are doing and how to drive. Give yourself lots of room. I would limit your towing to 20k. Thats about the limit of your stock tranny. Shoot, my new truck is rated at 30k and its a SRW, just on steroids. Good luck.

BillyJo

Man, its amazing how much some of you guys pull! I agree its about common sense, and doing it right though.

Well, my auto trans did go out a few months ago. I had to wait while I got money for it, and I was about to put a manual in, but I really dont have the time to do the work, or the cash to pay someone to do it. So I found a really good transmission expert, and he rebuilt the auto right, with a lot of upgrades and billet converter.

The manuals are probably more durable and better with engine braking, but one advantage with autos is the TQ. I have an old 78 Honda CB400 motorcycle with an automatic, it only has 2 actual gears [high and low], and relies on a TQ as the trans. It isn't a rocket, but it actually has pretty good pickup, and has no problem cruising 75 MPH or going up hills, and has good smooth torque. So a TQ does give a few more ratios if its a good one. I know the 5 speeds do have shorter 1-3 gears to make up for it though. But I think this auto will be just fine. Theres a lot of locals here that pull all sorts of things at the barns and they're satisfied with his work.

The guy told me the swap is doable, but the mechanic told me it'd be a lot more hastle than its worth, unless you have to have the stick, or maybe you have to pull those extreme loads all the time. But a built auto should be fine, and hold up as well, maybe just not last quite as long. But I got a great deal.

And he said the problem was a line came off and air was getting in and heating it, so not bad for 215K of hauling. But with these upgrades it performs SO much better! I had to get some front end work done, but now it drives like a new truck!

But I'm so glad to have this truck back, and am planning some horse riding around here soon, and need to pull 4-5 horse trailers from time to time, and in the future a lot more and when I move to the farm. I'm pretty satisfied with this truck as it is now.