Max tow limit without weight distributing bars
I have a 16k rated hitch. I have not installed it yet but have hauled 15k on my factory hitch for 120k now. I never really thought that dodge would put a 10k hitch on a dually. I guess I was lucky to never have an issue. I tow a 24' flat with beaver tail that weighs 5k empty, and a NH 985 skid steer with a few attachments. I have never felt unsafe but I will install the heavier hitch so that I won't be liable if the stocker gave out. Thanks for the info guys.
I like being dialed in. The whole rig will handle much better with a good WD set up.The hitch is stressed more with the weight just sitting on the ball. With a Wd set up the weight is pulling down on the hitch mounts more evenly instead of just at the farest rear mounts. It just tows much better. I am suggesting this on anything over 6,000lbs.
I just got a 2004 3500 Heavy Duty and the bumper clearly states that the bumper capacity is 5000/500. However, it also has a receiver hitch. How do I determine what class it is? I can't see a sticker anywhere....
Thanks
Thanks
It's a class IV receiver....rated at 1200/12000lbs. It's barely enough for our trucks. I replaced mine with a Putnam XDR class V hitch.
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I just finished installing my Reese Titan class V hitch this morning. It took no time at all and for the peace of mind it gives it's worth it. I compared it to the factory one and there really is NO comparison, it is about one third longer and much beefier I can see why it is rated for 1200lbs/12,000lbs without a WD.
I'll look at replacing it further down the road. Right now, its good enough for what I need. The trailer I am getting in a few weeks has a capacity of 7700 pounds. Which I'll never reach...Thanks for clarifying...
The local place I bought my hitch told me that the hitch manufacturers have had to reclassify their hitch weights. After doing a little research I see the Putman XDR class V was rated for 1500/15,000 with a 2 inch receiver and it seems the are no longer in business. The Reese Titan class V is now rated for 1200/12,000 with a 2 1/2 inch receiver without WD and 1400/14,000 with the WD.
The Factory hitch I removed was rated for 500/5000 without WD and 1000/10,000 with WD.
The Factory hitch I removed was rated for 500/5000 without WD and 1000/10,000 with WD.
I would guess that I have had over 3k in tongue weight on mine and it hasn't fallen off yet. The 3rd gen hitch is very well built and thought out imo. The round tubing my not be as heavy or look as strong as the heavier box tubing style hitches, but it is less likely to twist then box tubing of the same or even a little heavier weight would. But, the wd hitches do make certain loads pull better and a little safer, just don't ever think that they are a cure all. There is no substitute for a gooseneck of fifth wheel.
A WDH, when properly set up (90% aren't it is said) distributes that tongue weight BACK onto the trailer axles and FORWARD onto the Steer Axle. ONLY way to set one up involves a truck scale. With a tongue weight of from 350# on up.
http://www.reese-hitches.com/categor...ay_Control,110
A lightened Steer Axle is asking for trouble. Saw one yesterday in Houston. Landscaper with a crew cab, 4-5 men, [2] zero turn mowers on the trailer and the truck bed full of lawn/leaf bags. Front tires were bowed inwards at the road surface. Speeds on FM 1960 were 50 mph with a lot of traffic. Good thing it wasn't raining. I don't give a #$*& what they do in Sinaloa or Michoacan, this is America where we have respect for the rules of the road and our fellow drivers. (Willing to bet the brakes weren't in adjustment either; rule on that is one year or 3,000 miles, maximum).
http://directory.rvtradedigest.com/p...Electric_Brake
The forces exuded on the hitch receiver when moving -- up and down -- can be MANY thousands of pounds. It isn't a static situation. Side forces are also a problem.
There are adaptors for pole trailers to use a WDH that this truck/trailer needed. About all that was necessary was to bring the front end back to it's unhitched height (or as close as possible) for effective braking and steering.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-3280.htm
I have the factory hitch. I do not believe it will resist the side torque of a WDH as well as an aftermarket receiver.
Stoutest one I've seen is this:
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/i...d=574&Itemid=2
Maximum tow limit without a WDH is a trailer of about 2,500-lbs per DODGE Owners Manual (350# TW).
http://www.reese-hitches.com/categor...ay_Control,110
A lightened Steer Axle is asking for trouble. Saw one yesterday in Houston. Landscaper with a crew cab, 4-5 men, [2] zero turn mowers on the trailer and the truck bed full of lawn/leaf bags. Front tires were bowed inwards at the road surface. Speeds on FM 1960 were 50 mph with a lot of traffic. Good thing it wasn't raining. I don't give a #$*& what they do in Sinaloa or Michoacan, this is America where we have respect for the rules of the road and our fellow drivers. (Willing to bet the brakes weren't in adjustment either; rule on that is one year or 3,000 miles, maximum).
http://directory.rvtradedigest.com/p...Electric_Brake
The forces exuded on the hitch receiver when moving -- up and down -- can be MANY thousands of pounds. It isn't a static situation. Side forces are also a problem.
There are adaptors for pole trailers to use a WDH that this truck/trailer needed. About all that was necessary was to bring the front end back to it's unhitched height (or as close as possible) for effective braking and steering.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-3280.htm
I have the factory hitch. I do not believe it will resist the side torque of a WDH as well as an aftermarket receiver.
Stoutest one I've seen is this:
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/i...d=574&Itemid=2
Maximum tow limit without a WDH is a trailer of about 2,500-lbs per DODGE Owners Manual (350# TW).
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