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Lifting old 5ver

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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 02:12 PM
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From: Rice Lake, WI
Lifting old 5ver

I just got an old 1981 Holiday Rambler Monitor trialer. Its not much but it was cheap and for what I need its good enough. Of course all these old trailers are too short for the newer truck. Someone has taken and made the shackle mounts longer, adding about 2-3 inches I think. Well it still sits real noose high on the dually and the tail gate get pretty close to the bottom of the deck in some situations.

How much are people lifting theese old trailer to make them work. I could do an axle over on it and gain quiet a bit. But don't know if that is getting to high, I know it will look a little goffy. Need some taller rubber for it.

Oh and what is a good thing to clean the out side of these with?

Here is a picture, don't laugh


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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 02:23 PM
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You don't want people to laugh at ya for that old thing. You need to buy a new one and sell it cheap to somebody like me that don't care about those people. It's a little new for good huntin shack but I could get over that.
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 03:52 PM
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From: Rice Lake, WI
Originally posted by 99 cummins
You don't want people to laugh at ya for that old thing. You need to buy a new one and sell it cheap to somebody like me that don't care about those people. It's a little new for good huntin shack but I could get over that.
HAHA, I am your kinda people

Basically it gets used when he go a couple of times to play with the off-road trucks out in the mud and a couple of car shows.

I would love to buy a new one, but it just isn't worth it to me to use it 3 or 4 times a year. Now if someone wants to loan me a nice one, well lets talk......
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 05:23 PM
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I looked over several alternatives to raise my 97 Patio Hauler, but ended up doing the flip because it was cheaper, I felt there was less of a chance to mess up the alignment, and it could easily be put back.

You said the shackles have been extended... Are the stock holes still there? Maybe you could have perches welded to the tops of the axles, and put the shackles back to the stock location to get the right lift?

As far as having an old trailer, I'm with you. Those big fancy new ones drop huge value in the first couple of years regardless of how often they are used, and I just don't have the time to use one enough to make it worth it.
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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 08:39 PM
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From: Rice Lake, WI
I looked at it better tonight. The Shakles have been extended down 3". The stock holes are still their, would gust have to be drilled back out. If I did an axle flip I would gain 5-1/2" more so that would be 8-1/2" total. This is about what it would take to make it ride level. Just worries me getting it that high in the air if it is going to be to unstable with a higher center of gravity. I could do the axle flip and put the shakles back to stock that would only get me 2-1/2" over where I am now.

You know I have put alot of lifts in 4x4 trucks. When I guy put a lift in a trailer does that qualify you as true Red Neck or something beyond that




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Old Jun 27, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Why not build a four inch lift for it.. You can get parts you will need from Northern tools, and some 4inch channel Iron from your local steal yard.. Just build a box frame to set her on, weld on new shackle mounts, and your ready to haul....
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 08:27 AM
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From: Rice Lake, WI
I can do an axle flip for free, well either I have enough steel layin around home. I have no question of how to do it. I am wonder how much is too much before it becomes unsafe to pull. How much have people that done this lifted their trailers.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 09:56 AM
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In my experience, nothing is free.. The springs on the trailer are much stronger in their current configuration. I would hate to see you on a mountain, scratchin your head wondering how the hell am I gona fix this? Not only that, the axles are set up for under, and you will need to weld (warp age) new perches over. The only cost for building this frame is the iron. You may check to see if there is a steel salvage yard near by. I got my last eight footer 4x2 channel iron for ten dollars.. You will need four pieces, forty dollars..

This cradle is a much safer and stronger answer.

Oh, if you do a axle flip, better go get a set of springs, set up for over (more payload). Or at least new center pins, and spring bolts. There only good for a one-time use, Pinch threads lock nut.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:14 AM
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It looks like it is sitting pretty high as it is ... you sure that you want the center of gravity any higher going around a corner ??

PISTOL
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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From: Rice Lake, WI
Originally posted by PistolWhipt
It looks like it is sitting pretty high as it is ... you sure that you want the center of gravity any higher going around a corner ??

PISTOL
That is why I am asking for advise from people that have done it. I don't know, I agree that it seems it would be pretty high.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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From: Rice Lake, WI
Originally posted by GOINDOGE
In my experience, nothing is free.. The springs on the trailer are much stronger in their current configuration. I would hate to see you on a mountain, scratchin your head wondering how the hell am I gona fix this? Not only that, the axles are set up for under, and you will need to weld (warp age) new perches over. The only cost for building this frame is the iron. You may check to see if there is a steel salvage yard near by. I got my last eight footer 4x2 channel iron for ten dollars.. You will need four pieces, forty dollars..

This cradle is a much safer and stronger answer.

Oh, if you do a axle flip, better go get a set of springs, set up for over (more payload). Or at least new center pins, and spring bolts. There only good for a one-time use, Pinch threads lock nut.
I can get really in deep in this about why extending shakles and mounts like you say is dangerous also do to the side loading stress when cornering. Any why the spring doesn't care if the axle is on top or bottom.

And yes I can do it for free, I got stuff like that layin around the shop. And moving pring perches, that is nothing more then taking of the old ones with the Plaz cutter and moving them. I would by new u-bolts.

But again I am not really looking for technical help on how to do it. Just how much is too much for safety. I can build a 10" lift with custom 4-link front and back of my street driven off-roader I think I can handle a trailer. What I don't know is where the center of gravity of a trailer sits and how much you can raise it.

Thanks for the input.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 03:50 PM
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Center of gravity......

Big wooden box, with a few items like stove, toilet, refer, etc. Most of the items are sitting in the centerline of the shell. What little frame there is, is not real heavy considering.

If you want to be safe, go with wider axles, that would help keep your new trailer more stable.. But again, if you do that, you’re going to have weaker axle payload. You would then need to widen the frame to handle the load correctly...

As far as your background in this subject, I did not know your qualifications in this subject, so I was only trying to help.


Good luck.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 06:03 PM
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Well, maybe mine isn't as high as yours would have to be, but I didn't notice any change in how it handles.

Then again, I don't push mine close to the limit while cornering, either.

Personally, buying the predone perches made more sense to me. It would be more of a pain for me to make a set of 4 than what I would save, getting the center hole it to locate to the bolt in the center of the spring pack perfect, and all...

And, if you don't cut off the old perches, you could do the flip, and if you didn't like how it handled, in a couple of hours with a jack, some blocking, and a wrench, you could put it back...
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 08:56 PM
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I did some more checking, got a buddy that pulls around travel trailers for a living. he asked one of the manufacturers and they said the highest you want to go is 36" to the bottom of the frame, that seems real high to me.

Right now mine is 21" to the bottom of the frame and will be 26.5 if I do the axle flip. I am going to measure a trailer he has home right now, new one, and see where it is at. But at this point I am going to do it on Saturday and give it a try. Like you I don't corner it hard either. And when you start looking close alot of these new trailers are a long way off the grond.

Thanks for the input.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Mopar I would seriously look at removing the extended shackes trying to get the pivot point of the springs as close to the frame as possible and mount the springs onto the top of the axle. Generally if more clearance is needed a 2,3,4" heavy wall square/rectangular tube steel frame extension 6"before and 6" aft of where the spring eyes mount on the frame. Center of gravity will increase but not as much as you think, good driving and expereince will tell you when you are travelling too fast. Watch the distance between the tires and fenderwells on each corner, when the spring on the high side extends within 1 1/2" of travel before all weight is off the tire you are into "the danger zone" and it could be close to flipping. Most of these trailers are not as bad as they look, all the heavy stuff is less than half the height of the total of the trailer- water tank,sewer tanks, propane, food storage and appliances. From the picture it looks like it has been messed with already but hard to tell without looking at the frame and springs. Hook it to the truck and jack up the back until level and see how much you need to make it level. The older trailers front bedroom is not as high as the newer ones and unless over 12'6" total height I would not worry. Try it if the frame is stressing too much you will see it in the gussets and crossmembers, all you are wasting is a little material and some time just like all the projects us boys do in the back yard. PK
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