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From: Lethbridge, AB
Although a misnomer, this is commonly referred to as "flipping the axles". You don't really flip the axles, just move them under the springs. You may need to weld new spring perches to the axle housings and maybe new U-bolts. Some axle manufacturers (Dexter) have conversion kits.
Jim
Jim
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From: California
Dp
When I bought my FW I didn't have enough clearence either. It only cost me $175.00 to have the ( I call it spring over ) done by someone whose done it many times before and I wanted it done right! You can either try it your self or check around and see how much you could get it done for.
Good luck
Gary
When I bought my FW I didn't have enough clearence either. It only cost me $175.00 to have the ( I call it spring over ) done by someone whose done it many times before and I wanted it done right! You can either try it your self or check around and see how much you could get it done for.
Good luck
Gary
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From: Where hell freezes over.
After raising the camper that first step up becomes a big one. either buy 9" drop steps or build yourself a platform to stand on in front of the steps, kind of like a fourth step thats not attached.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,528
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From: Oregon
I spent a lot of time looking at alterntatives (started a thread on an RV forum) but in the end I did the "flip" thing because it was cheapest, and easiest to put back if it didn't work out.
I would order new spring perches in whatever brand built your axles. Some people fabricate their own, but they are cheap enough that I don't think it is worthwhile. There is a hole in the middle that locates on the bolt in the middle of the spring pack, so making your own and getting that perfect would be a pain.
Other people cut off the factory perches, but I left them on so the trailer could easily be put back... and you can use the facory perches as a point of reference (with a ruler and square) to get the new perches located properly.
Myself, I bought a "farm load" of junk (weathered/warped) 4x12's cheap at the lumber yard, chain sawed them into 2' lengths, and it worked great as blocking. I kept the truck hitched and landing jacks down on the front for extra security, and had 4' square stacks of blocking behind the axles on each side.
Though the welding wouldn't be all that difficult, I just clipped the brake wires and took the axles to a certified welder, who charged me $40 to do the welding.
Trailer tows great, though it is a bit taller than it needed to be.
I would order new spring perches in whatever brand built your axles. Some people fabricate their own, but they are cheap enough that I don't think it is worthwhile. There is a hole in the middle that locates on the bolt in the middle of the spring pack, so making your own and getting that perfect would be a pain.
Other people cut off the factory perches, but I left them on so the trailer could easily be put back... and you can use the facory perches as a point of reference (with a ruler and square) to get the new perches located properly.
Myself, I bought a "farm load" of junk (weathered/warped) 4x12's cheap at the lumber yard, chain sawed them into 2' lengths, and it worked great as blocking. I kept the truck hitched and landing jacks down on the front for extra security, and had 4' square stacks of blocking behind the axles on each side.
Though the welding wouldn't be all that difficult, I just clipped the brake wires and took the axles to a certified welder, who charged me $40 to do the welding.
Trailer tows great, though it is a bit taller than it needed to be.
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