Hot water heater
Hot water heater
I just winterized our 03 Outback 26RS TT this weekend. Question is on the hot water heater. We havn't used the TT for over a month, it's been plugged in AC to keep the last of the goodies in the fridge good. Back to the question, when I drained the water heater the water was still really warm. Water heater has been off from the wall switch for over a month. Is there a warmer or something in the heater while plugged in? I couldn't imagine the water staying hot for so long. It wasn't really hot but really warm, good for washing your hands warm. It's a 6 gal tank very well insulated, the propaine was left on but hard to tell if it had been used or not. Shut off the heater on the tank under the bed for the winter.
Thanks
Bill.
Thanks
Bill.
Hey Bill,
Are you sure there isn't a switch behind the cover on the heater that controls an electric heating element? My Keystone Cougar has this option.
My switch is kind of hard to see. I keep mine turned off when not in use. The fridge and water heater running on AC tends to run up the electric bill.
Are you sure there isn't a switch behind the cover on the heater that controls an electric heating element? My Keystone Cougar has this option.
My switch is kind of hard to see. I keep mine turned off when not in use. The fridge and water heater running on AC tends to run up the electric bill.
Originally Posted by RATTLINRAM
Hey Bill,
Are you sure there isn't a switch behind the cover on the heater that controls an electric heating element? My Keystone Cougar has this option.
My switch is kind of hard to see. I keep mine turned off when not in use. The fridge and water heater running on AC tends to run up the electric bill.
Are you sure there isn't a switch behind the cover on the heater that controls an electric heating element? My Keystone Cougar has this option.
My switch is kind of hard to see. I keep mine turned off when not in use. The fridge and water heater running on AC tends to run up the electric bill.
Thinking out loud now, the switch has been on all year, first year owning the camper. It's been running mainly on AC and the generator. So when plugged in the heating element is running but can't maintain the temp so the propaine kicks in?
Originally Posted by 2500Ram
That's the switch I just shut off I think, but mine's on top of the heater. Sounds like that's what it was. So shouldn't the water have been much hotter then?
Thinking out loud now, the switch has been on all year, first year owning the camper. It's been running mainly on AC and the generator. So when plugged in the heating element is running but can't maintain the temp so the propaine kicks in?
Thinking out loud now, the switch has been on all year, first year owning the camper. It's been running mainly on AC and the generator. So when plugged in the heating element is running but can't maintain the temp so the propaine kicks in?
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
You can tell real quick if you have an electric element in your water heater, and these days most of them do. As stated, look for the switch on the inside of the cover of the heater. Look in your panel for a breaker marked water heater. Lots of people do not know when their heater is on and will burn up the element. You must make sure you have water pressure and water in the tank when the electric is turned on - - it will destroy the element.
A really good idea when winterizing is remove the sacrificial anode (if it has one) and leave it out for the winter. Then, replace it next spring. It will help slow down deterioration of the heater guts. Many people have never replaced theirs - - pull it out and there is nothing left except the center wire.
A really good idea when winterizing is remove the sacrificial anode (if it has one) and leave it out for the winter. Then, replace it next spring. It will help slow down deterioration of the heater guts. Many people have never replaced theirs - - pull it out and there is nothing left except the center wire.
Originally Posted by FiverBob
A really good idea when winterizing is remove the sacrificial anode (if it has one) and leave it out for the winter. Then, replace it next spring. It will help slow down deterioration of the heater guts. Many people have never replaced theirs - - pull it out and there is nothing left except the center wire.
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
Originally Posted by 2500Ram
thanks FB, I don't have anode but was wondering what that was. I pulled one from my bother in laws pupup this weekend and was wondering what that thing was, looked like it had a bad case of chicken pox. He is going to replace it but shouldn't you plug the drain for the year instead of waiting for spring?
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If the anode rod looks all blistered, it is fine and doing it's job. It's when it gets down to the bare wire rod in the middle that they are shot.
Regarding whether or not to leave the plug out over the winter, I think that comes down to personal preference. I generally put it back in after flushing and draining thoroughly, not wanting insects or what not to get inside. With my luck, if I left it open in the fall, I'd end up with a wasp nest clogging things up in the spring...
While I have the plug out, I usually stick the 'fresh water tank filler' attachment on my garden hose inside, and flush out the scale and grit that can accumulate on the bottom of the tank.
I also use a mity-vac to suck out the last of the water before putting the plug back in, but that's probably overkill...
Regarding whether or not to leave the plug out over the winter, I think that comes down to personal preference. I generally put it back in after flushing and draining thoroughly, not wanting insects or what not to get inside. With my luck, if I left it open in the fall, I'd end up with a wasp nest clogging things up in the spring...
While I have the plug out, I usually stick the 'fresh water tank filler' attachment on my garden hose inside, and flush out the scale and grit that can accumulate on the bottom of the tank.
I also use a mity-vac to suck out the last of the water before putting the plug back in, but that's probably overkill...
No doubt you are right and my cabinet doors are held on with spiral fasteners and right angle straight pin hinges. Any more questions on thermal hydro temperature increasing devices????? PK
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
Originally Posted by P Kennedy
No doubt you are right and my cabinet doors are held on with spiral fasteners and right angle straight pin hinges. Any more questions on thermal hydro temperature increasing devices????? PK
Mr. Kennedy - - you are all right in my book.

ps: there is a neat little plastic thingy (go ahead, Kennedy, jump on that one - - LOL) that will go inside your tank and flush it pretty good. Available at most RV supplies for about $5 - - (way too much - - grrrr).
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 22
From: Sarasota, Florida
Originally Posted by P Kennedy
No problem Bob I just felt it was fitting as it fits in with our hydro carbon turbo kinetic propulsion device common to these forums.
PK
PK
Yeh, you are right - - one of those. (HUH, what did he say???)
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