Howdy to the board!

I've got a '98.5 RAM CTD 4x4 with a quad cab and a short bed. The bed sits 36 inches above the ground, and I've got tubular bed rails on each side that raise the bed sides about 3 inches. In addition, I've got a molded (plastic) factory bed liner.

In short, I'm interested in buying a used 24 foot BIG TEX gooseneck trailer (flat deck inside the wheel wells) that looks like this:http://www.bigtextrailers.com/spec/14gp.html

The problem is I don't know a thing about trailers this size, and even less about goosenecks. In fact, the trailers I've pulled with my RAM didn't even have electric brakes. So I need some help to get started on this project (getting my truck ready to hook up to the trailer). Due to the storm in my area (New Orleans), we're forced to move in a big hurry, so I'm already on a tight budget as well. I currently have a 10,000 pound receiver hitch mounted to the rear of the truck which is equipped with a 6 PIN receptacle and a 7 BLADE receptacle. I've never used the 7 blade receptacle, so I can't tell you what it's wired to.

I know that's a lot to assimilate, but I was hoping someone could get me started. I will have to do the work myself due to our $$$ crunch, but, if I can change my own injection pump and modify my entire fuel system, I should be able to handle it (I hope). Please keep in mind that my truck has never been used in conjunction with electric brakes.

Have a great night,
Bill

 

First off that 10,000 pound reciever hitch you have is useless if you are talking about getting a gooseneck. But once you pull a gooseneck you will have a hard time going back to the bumperpull trailers, there is no comparison when pulling a load, goosenecks are where it's at.
Second, if you want electric brakes you have to have an electronic brake controller. As far as installation they are a piece of cake.

 

Perhaps I wasn't clear enough previously. I only mentioned the rear hitch because I thought someone might be able to guide me as to whether or not I could temporarily use the 7-blade receptacle that is already wired into that particular hitch. I do realize that a gooseneck hitch and a frame kit are in order for a gooseneck trailer, so I'm all set there. I just thought someone out there may have been in a similar situation and, more importantly, could point me in the right direction. For instance, I know that electronic brakes require an electronic brake controller. I don't, however, know what's required to hook up a reputable/safe controller. I would also like some advice on which brand/type of gooseneck hitch to use. As I stated before, I have a short bed CTD 4x4 with a factory bedliner in it (and I'd like to use my bed by itself on a regular basis. So if anyone has been in this situation, I'd really appreciate the help.

Have a great one,
Bill

 

As far as the brakes I cant help you much there I always have a buddy of do mine for me, however as far as the hitch goes IMO B&W is the best. They aint cheap, last I checked they where around 350-375 and can be tough to install but on my last truck I didnt put the chain hooks in the bed so all I had was one hole once the ball was flipped over. go to B&W.com or somethin like that and look at em. I know what you mean about not havin brakes non of our trailers do either, I just get the brake controller for the lights and incase I have to pull someone elses trailer.
Good luck
Will

 

I run the B&W turnoverball hitch rated at 30,000 lbs. and love it.
Alot of people say the jordan brake controller is the only way to go, however I have no experiance with them. The brake controller I use is a draw-tite brand and have had zero problems with it. It is way simple to hook up. Some trucks even come with a wire harness to hook it directly to, therefore no wire splicing is required. If not they are still pretty easy to hook up, all you need is; a ground, a power source, and a brake light wire to hook into it. then there is just 1 wire that you have to run back to your existing receptacle. Most trailers of that size nowdays have the 7 round with flat pins plug on them. The wire harness coming off the trailer might be long enough to run back to your existing receptacle, if not you will have to drill a hole in your bed and put one in the bed.
I pull a gooseneck simmilar to the one you are looking at but mine is a 20,000 dual tandem. If you want to see my truck/trailer set-up check out my photo gallery.
Hollar if you need assistance.

 

I run the b&m turnover in my truck also. it doesnt look to hard to install, because you dont have to drill any holes in your frame. also i had a 7 pin harness put inside my bed, which in my mind is very useful.

 

I can tell you that you need to search around real quick and find yourself a decent brake controller. You will not be able to get a brakesmart, one, they arent available right now, and two, they are expensive and you say you are on a limited budget..... Next choice would be a Jordan Ultima 2020... If you can find one of those, get that.... If you cant get that, get a Tekonsha Prodigy. The Prodigy is widely available at trailer dealers. They are also reasonably priced and will be a lifesaver when pulling your trailer. It will be a ton better than the Draw Tite or similar controllers. Jordan Ultima 2020 or Tekonsha Prodigy. Nothing less.
Get an instalation cable for your truck at the trailer dealer. It hooks into the brake controller and plugs into the 4 pin plug under the dash. this is prewired to the 7blade connector on your bumper.... Prodigy takes about 15 minutes to install; jordan can be done in a half hour or so. may take a bit longer if it is your first time, but is still easy enough to do.

You can use the 7blade plug on the bumper for the GN trailer as long as they make the cable long enough on the trailer (they usually are)... It is not as convenient and you may want to add one in bed at a time that it is more convenient for you.

GN Hitches: Turnover is nice and convenient, but a plate with a thread in gooseneck ball will do nicely, is priced a lot less, but it is not as convenient to remove and install on a regular basis. Either will handle the weight and tow well. BW's turnover is 5th wheel adaptable, the others are not, but you pay a premium for this capability.... just some things to think about there....

-Trey

 

Thanks for all the posts, fellas!

Trey, that was a great post. Very, very helpful and I really appreciate your sensitivity to my $$$ situation. I now see that you PM'd so I'll take a look at that also.

Bill

 

I am a die hard beleiver in B&W also, but in the case of the short bed somewhere down the road you will need the slider hitch to keep a trailer from hitting the back of your cab. Not with this trailer, but in the long run, and B&W doesn't offer them right now.

 

I would go with a B&W hitch and a Jordan brake controller. Both are readily available and easy to install and great products. You might have to trace some wires to see where/how they wired the 7 blade plug.

 

Bill
I would go with the B&W a prodigy controller (with the prewired pigtail) That is all you need! You did mention a budgetand in a hurry.......you can run your trailer electrical hookup to the existing bumper receptical just wire in the correct plug for your truck. That is how I did it and I'm not on a budget..You didn't mention how much you are going to use it....If you are just trying to get out of Dodge .....that will work fine! But if you are going to haul a lot then maybe the better or more expensive brake controllers....But they arn't any safer just a bit smoother!

 

Thanks xyzer,

Great input, and I appreciate the straight talk. Is the Jordan generally a lot more expensive?

--Bill

 

Bill.....Yes the Jordan is more expensive...Prodigy+pigtail=$89-$135 + shipping(Waldmart probably sells them). Maybe someone will chime in on the Jordan price...(just a guess over 200???? and harder to find). Jordans work nice because they are tied to the brake peddal so it gets a direct imput of the brakes applied. The Prodigy or inertia type controller senses the deceleration of the tow vehicle....can be a bit off...but works ok. Lots of them out there...Good Luck!

 

I was wondering how the Jordan's worked with the adjustable pedals option?
Anybody running one this way?

 

I'm sure I'm just the exception here so all you guy's that love'em don't get your panties in a bunch, but I hate mine. Makes the brake pedal noisy when hooked up, I've tried lubing the cable and still does it. Was hard to get the cable set right and by the time I finally did I must have weakened the cable cause it snapped a few weeks later. Just moved the mounting location closer to the pedal and re-adjusted it on the pedal again. Whith heavy trailers I just don't feel like it is giving me the stopping ability as other controllers. If it wasn't so expensive I would replace it, but with that much money wrapped up in it, it's gonna get used.