I'm trying to figure out a good solution to the following problem. I normally pull a heavy 40' 4 horse w/LQ trailer on my truck, but it's impractical (and often a pain) for our frequent day rides with friends in out of the way places.

Anyway, my neighbor has exactly what I need for such rides and wants to trade this trailer for an old car that we have. I hooked it up and immediately realized I'd have a bit of an issue with it. The truck doesn't even feel it and so the trailer sits at an angle (not enough pin weight) that is precariously close to the tailgate & bed walls. See attached pictures. It would be fine on level ground, but we are usually not blessed with such and it could easily dig into the bed on unlevel ground.

I use a B&W turnover ball and they make what they call a high rise ball, but even that would only give me another 1-1 1/2" clearance I think. Also, it would just increase the sloping angle of the trailer and I'm not sure I'd like that either (although that's not a major issue).

Any ideas of something else short of a lift kit on the trailer or 25 bags of concrete in the truck?

 

You need to raise the trailer axles. Hopefully you willl get lucky and you can "flip the axles". Meaning you can put the springs on top of the axles if they are on the bottom of them now. This would raise the trailer quite a bit. Otherwise a lift kit is in order.

 

Wouldn't it level out some if there was a load in the trailer?

 

According to this, you need to weld a new spring "perch" onto the axle. I don't know why you couldn't/wouldn't simply rotate the axle 180 degrees. That's why it's called flipping the axle!!!

 

On the tongue there are two bolts. Jack the trailer up enough to get the weight off it, loosen the two bolts, jack the trailer up some more. One pipe will slid out of the other pipe, jack to desired heith then retighten bolts to 100 ft lbs.

 

You did not specify what kind of axles is on the trailer (spring or torsion flex)

If they are are spring do as jaxom stated and flip them by installing this kit (Pg 7 of the doc- over / under kit):

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/parts...Components.pdf

You can not rotate the axles 180 as the tubes are arched..

The EZ flex kit on the same page is a nice addition to the spring set up.

If your trailer has torsion flex type axles they will have to be lowered by fabricating a frame work to place in between them and the trailer frame itself..

Nice looking trailer BTW

 

mite not hurt to get some larger tires to help level it some those look like 15 inch tires

 

you can adjust the coupler barrel on the gn trailer reciever,but that only gives you bed clearance and tilts the trailer even more. the only real solution is somehow raise the height of the trailer, taking the tailgate out is also a good idea,but don;t help with the bed rails.

 

He is not alone for what ever reason older stock trailer do not fit under our truck mine has the springs swaped bigger tires blocks and I have destroyed my bed rails. But now since the bed rails are bent pretty good the trailer fits better I am going to a flat bed soon so that I can drop the reciver part down and level the trailer out again.

 

i adjust mr gn for my trucks thru the hitch but the arent as short as that trailer so to even it out is why i said to put taller tires will helpn with the angle on the bed

 

put some leveling pucks up front on the truck.....

 

Thanks for the input everyone, I really appreciate it. I did try adjusting the GN, but it seemed pretty clear that I was going to lose what little clearance I had left in the back of the trailer, so it wasn't really an option.

I think Colo_River_Ram is right that a spring over conversion could work and would be the least expensive thing to do. (thanks for that link too CRR) and indeed as you can see, the trailer is currently sprung under the axle. After looking at it though, and maybe I'm wrong, it seems like changing the leaf springs over would be an awfully high lift (like maybe 8 inches or so?).




Also, I'm not sure how I'd handle this cantilever between the axles with a conversion. Would I have to redrill the mount and move it up closer to the frame?



You can also see that this thing has a 4 inch dropped axle , so I'm wondering if maybe putting a couple of straight axles and leaving the springs as they are would be the way to go. This would be a pricier endeavor though.

My neighbor agreed with me that it couldn't stay this way with my truck as is (he pulls it with a western hauler bed) and that they certainly didn't have these modern trucks in mind when they built these old trailers in the 80's.

My truck is used to pulling this one and it rides just right, but the GF is scared to death of it and needs to learn on something a lot smaller. I still want her to drive a gooseneck though.



Thanks again for the input everyone.

 

gomulego,

Depending on the shape of the axles brakes ect upgrading the axles might be an option.. Flipping the axles will give you the tube diam + the spring thickness worth of lift..

The quickest and cheapest would be to swap the perches you can do that via the kit I showed you or get some perches and weld them into place..looks like the u-bolts are a bit rusty be sure to order some new ones when you order your other items..

southwestwheel is a sponsor on DTR just click on their logo to get to their website they should have everything you need and give a DTR discount as well..

 

You shouldn't need to worry about the cantilever. Swap the springs to the top of the axles and new ubolts. You'll need to buy new spring perches. Just leave the old ones on there and git R dun.

The straight axle swap would be nice if you have bad bearings and worn out brakes.

Don't forget, the horses will have to step a little higher to get in.

 

It's attached to the frame... so it will move up with the frame and leafs and will be fine. Your only relocating how the lefts clamp to the axle... everything else stays the same.