Well... it's not my first tow really. I have towed small trailers many times--little home-made trailers back in the '60's behind my Pop's '53 Chevy Sedan delivery. And in the last 7 years, since I've had my Dodge/Cummins, I've moved some friends locally, as well as from L.A. to New Mexico--towing U-hauls--5X10 enclosed trailers. But I am getting ready to move some furniture and woodworking equipment 1,600 miles. I have the use of a large 2-horse, in-line trailer, (not a 5th wheel) and it looks like everything will fit. I plan on making the trip in May or June from L.A. across I-40 and up I-44 to Springfield, Mo. Tongue weight will be very light, as the trailer is an in-line horse trailer, with wagon-style frame and wheels on each of the 4 corners. It appears to be a very stable trailer design, but what do I know!

Questions: Do I have to stop at weight stations, and if so what do I need to show them?

What does the DOT look like, and will they want to stop me, or ask embarassing questions about my 45 gal, Aero in-the-bed aux. diesel tank?

What do I need to tell my Ins. Company? Is a trailer normally covered automatically? I may own the trailer by the time I move--I like it. It has new brakes, new tires and new wiring, the work was done professionally by a shop I know.

I haven't actually checked out the trailer in person yet--I've only had it offered to me by my buddy, who is the mechanic who did the work, and I've seen pictures of it. Looks good, but again, I've not been around trailers all my life. I have, however been around tractors, trucks, cars all my life.

On the plus side I've restored a couple of old trucks, as well as an old car, I am a builder, and a decent mechanic on my own vehicles. I've rebuilt engines and stick transmissions, and know my way around a shop.

Are there any on-line resources for me to read? I want to educate myself about what not to do, as well as what to do right.

 

Hey Robert,

Questions: Do I have to stop at weight stations, and if so what do I need to show them? No, you are a private carrier so you should be ok.

What does the DOT look like, and will they want to stop me, or ask embarassing questions about my 45 gal, Aero in-the-bed aux. diesel tank? I don't think the DOT would stop you unless you're speeding which is not a good idea pulling a trailer.
What do I need to tell my Ins. Company? Is a trailer normally covered automatically? I may own the trailer by the time I move--I like it. It has new brakes, new tires and new wiring, the work was done professionally by a shop I know. You might call them but I believe most carriers cover the items in the car and if you're pulling a trailer, it should be covered as well.
I haven't actually checked out the trailer in person yet--I've only had it offered to me by my buddy, who is the mechanic who did the work, and I've seen pictures of it. Looks good, but again, I've not been around trailers all my life. I have, however been around tractors, trucks, cars all my life. I would at least check the wheel bearings and brakes.
Good luck on the trip.

 

If I read this right the trailer has a front axle and tongue rather than a trailer that has rear axles only . That certainly doesn't sound like something I'd want to be hauling across the country on the interstate . Braking could be tricky . Does it even have brakes ?

 

Thanks a bunch Kel! I went ahead and bought the trailer. I will pick it up in a few weeks. I've certainly familiar with doing wheel bearings, and auto & truck brakes, but I have never worked on electrical trailer brakes--I guess I'll learn! I grew up on a farm, so we were always hauling hay or bedding in wagons, and I became a good backer-upper.

How do electrical trailer brakes work? My truck came with a Drawtite brake actuator, and the brake wiring is all in with the outlet in the bed. I've never towed anything with brakes before.

 

Rick, yes it has brakes. It has a front axle and tongue at the front of the trailer, and a rear axle at the back of the trailer. It was built so the horses would ride one standing in front of the other. My buddy did haul horses all over the place with it for four years--I have personal knowledge of that. I won't be hauling horses with it. He upgraded to a 4-horse trailer, he said that's the only reason he's selling it. He does do good work on cars--I've seen his work.

 

You will need an electric brake controller, I reckon you mean you have the "actuator", is it in the truck below the dash? Adjust it in a gravel road so that the trailer brakes grab a bit earlier than the truck brakes, and if braking hard the trailer wheels lock on gravel. Then try braking on the road in a safe situation. On moderate braking, trailer should not lock up, if it does release the controller a tad.
You should be allright to go, I would think, just take it easy until you adjust to pulling it.

 

Thanks Paul. I bought my truck in 2000, from a guy who towed a 5th wheel RV, so it is all set up for RV towing. Yes, there is a Drawtite electric brake controller under the dash, and a 6-blade RV type female connector in the side of the bed, as well as a 6-pin round connector under the bumper that I've used for U-haul lights. The info on how to adjust the brakes is EXACTLY what I need to learn--thanks for the tips. I'd rather learn here, than find out the hard way what works and what doesn't!

By the way, I just checked the 6-pin round connector--the one that's under the bumper, and 2-3 of the pins are sorta green and corroded. Any tricks to getting a good connection there? Should I just push and pull the male connector off and on until the pins are shiny?

 

Go to wall mart or where every and buy a 7 pin universal. Most trailers now use those and there are adapters to switch to a 6 pin configuration. Be careful because there are two different ways to set up a 6 pin, stock trailer or utility trailer are what the two differences are called. It is just having the electric brake in one spot or another. 7 Pin connectors are usually better for holding in, they have a little lip on the male end that the cover of the female end holds when you fold it up to connect it. With horse trailers, make sure the floor is ok and since the truck has been trailered you probably will not have to upgrade your flasher relay. If in fact you do your blinker will go to fast for your lights to light up, a simple trip to a parts store and a few dollars later your fixed. Have fun and watch out for idiots on the road, most do not understand turning trailers or blind spots.

Jered

 

Thanks Jered. I just looked at my controller, and I see 3 adjustments on it. +sync- and output and activator. I know what the activator is--pushing it activates the trailer brakes by themselves. I think the +sync- would adjust when the trailer brakes apply, in relation to the truck brakes, and the output I would think would be the amount of braking pressure applied. Is this correct?

 

Lots of the in-line 2-horse traillers around here in New Mexico, see them all the time. The 7-pin to 6-pin adapters work excellently, or you could just change out the plug on your trailer to fit your configuration. The back side of the plug has labeling, may need a magnifier to read it, but it does have lables. As far as your 'green' contact pins, you can put a little dielectric grease in the hole on the female side, that should help to 'make' your electrical connections and the dielectric will dissolve the green stuff off. You have a real good brake controller, should do the job for you and then some. Brake adjustment is simple, you will catch on quickly I'm sure.

CD

 

Thanks CD. I am looking forward to picking this trailer up and getting going with it.

 

Talk to an RV or trailer specialist on adjustment of electric trailer brakes. I just replaced the brakes on all four wheels on my Fiver and then found out after 2 tows that the brakes were gone. RV tech asked my how I adjusted them and I told him like I've done cars and trucks, tighten until you feel or hear a little scrub when wheel is rotated. He said on electric brakes you have to adjust them looser due to the magnet pull and release. Also, the trailer brake actuator is usually adjustable for light load or heavy load. This allows more current to flow from the tow vehicle to the trailer which is controlled by the actuator.