Dry Ship Weight: 7,065 lbs and GVWR: 11,110 lbs. I am going to buy my first camper and the question that I have is what is the difference in the dry ship weight and GVWR? I think that the answer is the trailer can hold the difference 4,045? I know all of the tanks should be empty when towing, to save on fuel, or do you fill up with potable water prior to leaving so that you dont have to worry about finding it on the trip and the hassle the next question is my truck should pull this camper with no problems correct, keeping in mind that I monitor my gages? This is the model that I am purchasing. Thank you in advance. Bill
http://www.doddrv.com/searchengine/D...r%20Toyhauler#

 

You are correct on all accounts.

 

You're pretty well correct but you want most of your weight in the front of the trailer so the weight is on the hitch . I'm assuming the water tank is in the front . If you run with the tanks empty and too much stowed toward the rear of the trailer it will cause it to sway . Keep in mind you have to consider weight of passengers , fuel , and supplies in your truck when figuring your gcwr .
Pick up a copy of RV Trader to check sale prices on similar models . Buying a travel trailer is like buying a car . You should never pay full MSRP .

 

Biggest thing about toyhaulers is if you have no toys in the back to balance the weight they tow tongue heavy and can ride rough. The dry weight is also what the base model weighs, option like a generator will take away from the capacity.

 

I'm confused . When I click the link the model that comes up is a 28' bumper pull , not a toy hauler . That would make a difference .

 

There are a few bumper hitch toy haulers out there now.

 

This is not Toy Hauler, it is a 28'camper.

 

just a tip. If you have kids/wife with you on the trip. Put about a 1/3-1/2 tank of water, so they can use the pot. No stopping at a crummy gas station to pop a squat.

 

I always fill up with water(not a 110gal tank like some toyhaulers have though) so I can use the bathroom, wash dishes, etc while on the road. If you want to get technical you need to weigh the trailer and subract that from the GVWR to get your actual load capacity. The biggest thing to watch for is overloading the trailer tires, some trailers are shipped with tires that dont have enough capacity to safely carry the full GVWR of the trailer.

 

Sorry, don't know were I got toy hauler from. Guess thats the problem of surfing the forum @ 60mph towing a 37ft 5er.

 

I have tons of questions thanks for all of the replies to date. First dumb question, and I have read all of the threads, my comprehension is a little low. I know that I am limited in towing by EGT, Transmission temp, and RPM. EGT's 12/1300, Tran 200 and RPM 26/2800? I drove with O/D off at 2300 for a short distance and I thought I was going to destroy the engine. Tow/Haul will defintely be used. 1600 trough 2k RPM is the power range from what I have digested. So the question is how much for how long above 2k RPM, I know watch the gages correct. I do plan on putting magtec transmission pan, and magtec rear diff on before I tow 8-11k 28' travel trailer. My main route will be fo Norfolk Va to Morgantow WV. There are some petty good grades Thank you in advance.
Bill

 

You won't notice a couple of hundred lbs of water in your fuel milage. And it is nice to have water on the road. As someone posted, just be sure you load in the trailer does not put it over what the tires and axles are rated to carry.

 

The rpms you were running are NOTHING to a Cummins. In some applications,the Cummins is running at 3000 rpms all day,every day. The 5.9 in my truck is rated at 325hp at 2900 rpms. In talking with a Tech at Cummins NW,he said he'd rather see someone pulling at 2900 than 1600. He made a point that alot of guys forget. He said its a common assumption that the Cummins pulls best at peak torque (1500-1600). He said the torque curve for the Cummins is so flat that you can still be making close to peak torque at peak HP (2900),but at 2900 you have the engines 325 HP to go with all the torque. My truck pulls 11,000lbs far better at 2100+ than it does at 1600.

Towing at low rpms is a good way to get the EGTs high. If you're running down a flat highway,running at 1600+ is ok. If you try pulling through hills at 1600,you'll likely find the EGTs getting too high.

Keeping some airflow through the exhaust/turbo will help keep the EGTs down.

 

It's my understanding that these engines can run all day long at redline without any ill effects. I try to keep mine in the 1800-2K range unless I'm in hills and then it will run 2400 and pull like a freight train. Just watch your gauges and you'll know when it's time to either back out of it or get in it.

 

WOW, I guess that I have nothing to worry about then just watch the gages and dont let the wife drive. Well I could but for sure I would be stuck on a hill some where, wth either a blown up engine or a fat lip tellng her how to drive I tried tell her that is why 18wheelers creep up hills because of engine limitations she says we need another truck then. I told her it wont matter. She has the fuel and go mentality