cLAYH

I'm looking to buy a GN trailer to convert into a poor man's Toy Hauler. I will be hauling it into the backcountry and off road, nothing crazy just a bit off the beaten path so I want to keep as much ground clearance as possible, especially at the rear overhang.

I always thought that a beaver tail would reduce the rear ground clearance but was following a regular trailer down the road and now I'm not so sure.

Anyone familiar with trailer construction care to educate me?

Thanks!

blackdiesel

I could try to explain it, but this describes it better

.boB

The answer is - it depends. If you take a standard trailer and then drop the tail, you'll lose ground clearance. But, if the trailer starts at standard height, and the bed is higher than standard, it won't.

rich

yes the tail will be lower some and will drag depending on the lenght of the trailer

CD in NM

As compared to the 'over the wheels' bed height - YES.

As compared to the 'between the wheels bed height' - even a bigger YES.

As compared to the normal level of a bumper pull 'flat' between the wheels bed height- SAME.

If you are worried about the possibility of DRAG in uneven terrain - put a set of rollers like the RV's use at the back so you don't get any damage just in case. My 20' - 12K gross BP will drag when I turn onto a steeper incline, I did the rollers just in case. My 24' GN beavertail will also drag when turning onto an incline, it got the rollers too. The rollers have literally saved my butt end several times, also less bent up license plates.

CD

Need95-00CTD

Go to Harbor Freight, and get the heaviest casters they have... Then Duct Tape them to the back of the trailer. Sorry... I broke my finger and have nothing better to do...

CTD NUT

As you may remember, I'm working on the same thing as you. A large beaver tail with the overhang that a 30 footer will have will be trouble for a trailer that size on a trail - even if it is a deck over. I know the trails I will be towing my trailer on are rough enough that all the rollers in the world won't stop the fact that I would be smashing the holy heck out of the trailer repeatedly if I don't have the appropriate clearance. My 32' 5ver has a small, subtle beaver tail which was all I could manage in order to maintain the minimum clearance I was after.

RAMRODD

If you build or order a new trailer consider moving the axils farther back this will keep the tail from draging and will put more weight on you truck which will give you a lot more traction when you go offroad.

This is also where triple axils trailers shine. It gives you a tire far enough forward to keep from getting overcentered in the front and gives you a tire far enough to the back to keep the tail from dragging.

CTD NUT

Weight, cost and loss of manuverability all steered me away from a tri axle set up....but yes, I agree with the analogy....there was just more cons than pros for using a tri-axle for my application.

Bluedually4x4

I thought it was called a dove tail lol That's besides the point, it really depends on the trailer. I have seen some that have good clearance and some that do not. As mentioned the trailer's axles will play a big part.
If you are worried about ground clearance for a toy hauler I am going to guess the toys have pretty good ground clearance. Get a trailer with out the beaver or dove tail and get a longer set of ramps to load and unload the toys. The longer ramps would give you less of an angle to drive up like the beaver tail but you will have the better ground clearance of a standard trailer.

cLAYH

We don't have doves in Canada so we call it a beaver tail up here.

I like the trailer you are building, looks like it will be nice and light.

Cann't really move the axles too far forward as then there will be too much pin weight on the truck with the camper on the trailer. Especially if the JEEP isn't on the back.

Casters on the back would just sink into soft ground and add more drag/things to catch on.

Ground clearance on the jeep isn't an issue(36" tires and 8" lift).

PChouinard

If you're not planning on getting to heavy, there's always the spring-over setup to consider. i did this on my Terry so I could get it to my ranch without leaving the bumper behind.
Moving the axles back is a good idea but it might make maneuvering in an unimproved campsite and turning in in tight spaces a bit harder...

CTD NUT

Thanks, but I'm not so sure about the nice and light part! The 32' beams are 8" channel with short 4" channel junior beams ahead of the axles. The rear flat deck is 1/8" diamond plate....all in all, there is about 3500 lbs of steel alone. Add the two 7K axles and suspension with wheels, camper (which has been extended) and all the camping junk and I'll probably be in the 9500 lb range - without the 5k jeep on the back. Target gross trailer weight is 14,500 lbs with a target tongue weight of 3500 lbs. Knowing the intended usage, the trailer frame was built with durability in mind.

Busboy

I would go with 2 7k axles with 285/75/16 tires and put the deck between the wheels. This results in 102 inches trailer width at the wheels (the max allowed). I would have the fenders removable in case you want to load something wider. I would NOT use a beaver tail and instead use longer ramps stored so they slide out from the back of the trailer, not the side like a lot of car haulers. This makes them much easier to move around as you just have to slide them in and out, and you can go very long. I went with 8 feet and they are VERY heavy but will easily take a farm tractor or a diesel truck. I would also go with a removable pin, that way you can use either a ball or a 5ver pin. Happy trailering.

rich

instead of casters or wheels on the taile use a pipe as wide as the trailer and make it a roller