Without a doubt, the Dodge Cummins has been he best diesl on the market.
The ford diesel has been horrible after the 7.3. the Chevy had gotten better, but is not as trouble free as the Cummins.
For your budget, you should be able to get an 03-05. Long bed, most definitely. If you can get a 3500 for the money, do it. You can never have too much truck. As fas as 4x4, I would pass if you do not go off road much.
A limited slip and AT tires work ell with 2 WD, plus 400lbs lighter. the choice is yours.
The manuals are better for control and logevity.

 

I'll throw my 2 cents in on this because I just upgraded for towing.

I started off with an '03 Dodge 3500 QCSB CTD (SO 250 hp) with automatic and figured it would tow what I needed when I needed it to. It had the power but the tranny just wasn't going to handle a 26 foot Keystone RV/toyhauler, even though empty weight was 6700 pounds. Needless to say it got traded in last year for my '08.

Here's what I found out:

- Don't tow with a short bed on rough roads with a Class IV hitched trailer. You get a see-saw effect that makes the front end float, even with stabilizer bars.

- Don't tow with an auto if you don't have to. I topped out at 52 MPH @ 2800 RPM and going up small hills was even worse.

- Get an air spring/bag suspension upgrade for your rear axle. This makes driving both empty and loaded a much more enjoyable experience. My '08 3500 rides better than my '06 2500.




Kris

 

Interesting; I don't have any problems towing an 11,000 trailer with my short bed. Never had sway or see-saw issues or front end float, even on some very special stretches of highway that have seams spaced specifically to irritate me and my wife (we call that stretch the boob shaker). Just have to have WD bars of the right capacity and properly adjusted.
Manual for towing and any kind of minimal off-roading beats the auto hands down. Far cheaper to repair too.

 

I agree...somethings not set up right. I used my wife's '03 the other day to pull our 30' TT with the RZR behind it and was able to run 62-65mph with no problem. There was one long grade that I had it on the floor but it maintained my speed (3rd locked up) but I think if I would have been in OD it wouldn't have been a chore.

 

lots of great responses... note most are in agreement with what to get.

yes... it's not unusual for cummins to go 500k+ miles. but the rest of vehicle will need maintenance like anything else.

try to find a low mileage cummins truck. reason is you don't know how that truck has been maintained. HUGE difference between buying a cummins truck with 235k miles vs putting those miles on yourself.

if one can verify the maintenance history... 200k miles is just getting started.

it's pretty much agreed... get a 12v or 2003- common rail cummins with manual tranny. note it's real hard to find 12v 2500 with 5sp. almost all 12v 2500 had auto vs it's easy to find 5sp in 3500 12v.

if you are lucky enough to find a super low mileage 12v.. like under 70k miles. plan on paying the same $$$ as a late model CR cummins.

if you go 12v... fix the killer dowel pin immediately after buying.

 

In your budget range of $15K, you should be able to get an 05. I would figure out what size 5th wheel you think you might upgrade to, and buy the truck for that. Any 5th wheel larger than 32ft, and I'd look for a 1 ton dually. The need for 4 wheel drive depends on your location, and your preferences. I live in S.E. Texas, and don't feel the need for it. If I were in the north I wouldn't be with out it. Like was posted before, you can never have too much truck.

 

I have posted this one before but a good one is never too old:

Of course the reporter put a bigger engine in (bigger always sounds more powerful!). I hope all of our trucks get to live that long!

 

I Third this.

Our travel trailer is within 92% of the max rated tow weight for our p/u. Its a late model extended cab 6.5' bed with auto and a 3.42 rear end. We use an Equal-i-zer WD hitch. Zero problems pulling with the auto trans and only moderate effort on hilly roads. We just towed our trailer over the mountains between Nashville and Atlanta. Dropped it into 3rd to get up to Monteagle and charged up the 5% grade at 60 MPH no sweat.

Porpoising is usually caused by not using or poorly adjusting weight distribution and/or exceeding 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue which can be easily accomplished by towing an empty toy hauler.

 

ROTFLMAO!!! Maybe more? I have personally met five Dodge CTD owners with over 1 million miles on their pickups. In a few weeks I'll turn over 700k. Somewhere around 295k I had a minor coolant leak and had to replace the head gasket. The cylinder walls still had the crosshatch showing.

 

Glad I could provide some comic relief. We need some of that in these times, right? I am guessing my neighbor was being a bit conservative. Nonetheless, this is very encouraging as long as I can obtain a Dodge CTD that hasn't been abused and thrashed in it's first 100K miles. Can this be determined by a competent mechanic or can it be hidden somehow?

 

I'd say, feel the owner out and and as long as it has been kept stock, no leaks and front end is tight, you should be good. Just remember that mild upgrades can be heck on a stock drivetrain...depending on how the owner used/abused the truck.

 

I pull about 9000 pound gooseneck with my 99 DRW. I got for this and it has the 4.10 rear end. I get 15.8 towing 60 mph without a problem. The only adder I have is a Smarty which I run on #3 towing and #1 daily driving. I get 20 mpg daily driving too so don't let the 4.10 chase you away. It really works great towing.

Plan on a VP in the 2nd gen 24 valves just as a maintenance item> It should go well over 100k now with all the upgrades. i already have 80k on mine.

I'd get a 5 or 6 speed and plan on a clutch which if far less expensive than an automatic. More fun too.

The truck has 230k and runs great.

 

I would get a long bed so you don't have any issues pulling a 5th wheel later. If you want less maintenance get a 2wd if you don't off road or travel up north.


I'd get a 03+ with as low of miles and best shape possible for your price point. I'd prefer an 04.5+.