Thinking about getting a 5th wheel toy hauler and was wondering if it would back up my sloped driveway to park beside house.

Driveway is around 15 degree slope and is only about
30 -40 feet long.

My concern is at the bottom of the drive when backing and the trailer is at an angle on the drive to the truck. Not sure how much give a fiver has. Never used one before.

I have put small trailers 8'-10' up this drive with no problem.
Did drag slightly one time with a plate on the bottom of the hitch jack.

I am wanting around a 30' hauler and would prefer to park it at home rather than rent a storage space.

 

15 degrees is quite a bit of slope, nearly 27%. Are you sure its that steep? Does it flatter out up top or remain inclined?

I think the rear will hit with that kind of slope, and I wouldn't keep a 5th parked on it unless there was a relatively flat section on top.

 

Just guessing on the slope, it might be a little less.

I would be backing it into the yard beside the house and it is flat.

After looking at pictures of some of the rigs attached to trucks I think
the rear of the trailer would most likely bottom out before the truck got started up the drive.

 

Don't know your trailer axle placement (IE: how much rear overhang between the aft trailer axle and the rear bumper of the trailer) - that would be my focus. You should be able to determine if the rear will hit before the aft trailer axle commences the incline - some folks put dolly wheels under the aft trailer to roll a limited distance. At least with the fifth wheel the connection is higher on the truck than a receiver connection, so that shouldn't be an issue. I would also look at the bridge (distance between forward trailer axle and truck rear axle) - that measurement may also provide info.

 

You also need to look at the truck bed to trailer clearance. If you back up that steep of a hill, the 5er will almost definitely smack the bed rails of the truck when starting up the slope. Just something to look out for.

Hay

 

I back our 30 ft 5th wheel up our driveway, and it's 200 feet long, about 10% grade. The back jacks on the trailer touch very slightly and the rear wheels of the truck tend to want to slip just when the truck starts up the hill, but I just gas it a little and up it'll go. The driveway flattens out at the top where the trailer sits, but the truck will be on a little angle when uncoupling, it doesn't bother the truck, just gives me a "pucker factor" because I have to jack knife down on the road to get the trailer pointed right and keep the truck front end out of the ditch.

 

I think the rail clearance would be the thing that would stop me.

I can always give it a shot when I purchase ,watch carefully, and stop if it looks like it is going to hit.

I bet that driveway would put the pucker factor in high gear pump daddy.

 

If I member correctly, I have about 3-4" of clearance, if not a shade more. But the trailer does make the hitch moan and groan when it's backing up the hill, and YES, there are "pinch" marks in the seat If the driveway is wet, there is NO WAY the truck will push it up there, in that case, the trailer gets dropped at the shop in the back lot and taken home later.

 

On that kind of slope and once you get straight, in front of your trailer, without to much front wheel turn, slip your transfere case into low range. It will push it up hill better, and a lot less stress on your auto trans. There is a lot of heat genereted in that auto trans when backed up a slope like yours. I know there will be a some dissagreement on this and some will not recommend it but in your case you might give it a try.
nivram

 

Thanks for the suggestion Nivram but as short as my driveway is I really don't have any distance to straighten up. I will be cutting the wheel almost as soon as I start in the drive to angle the trailer to the spot beside the house.
I don't think slipping will be a problem unless it would be wet. Have the 4:10 gears and anti spin diff. along with a set of Toyo tires that grip great compared to the stock Michelins

 

I was not refereing to the trailer slipping, as the Quote says the transere case. It will easy the strain on the transmission and its slipping so much and generating a lot of heat. This is just a suggestion.
I have mine rigged to lock out the front axel and use the low range, works very good. DC did not do you guy a favor when they did away with the cad system.
nivram

 

What he said - if you have a tranny temp gauge I'd keep an eye on it. It's amazing how quickly the auto's can heat when in reverse with a heavy load, especially going uphill.

One of my friends asks me to back his trailer up his driveway when it's loaded - he has a temp gauge and an auto and it freaks him out how fast it heats up. Since I have the 6 spd...

 

I've run my 5th wheel into some really steep and nasty spots. 3-4" bed rail space isn't enough, in my opinion.

I've used low range, too, but usually in dirt. If it was a short straight run, I wouldn't hesitate to use it briefly on pavement, but not if I were turning the truck.

Having a hitch that pivots 4 ways is really helpful, especially if you are going to be hitching and unhitching in uneven situations.

After considering various options for raising the 5th wheel, I eventually relocated the axles from above to below the springs. Though taller than it needs to be, it handles great and it doesn't bottom out on anything.

The Ramp to the garage ends up being steeper but still fine, and I use a couple chunks of 4x4 under the rear stabalizer jacks, but otherwise I'm really happy with the results. I think it only cost me like $60 or so for new perches from the auto parts store, and for a professional welder. I pulled the axles and located the perches myself, and left the stock perches in place...

 

This is where the 2x4 switch to use low range comes in real handy!

 

I have between 8 and 9 inches clearance in my box, and I use low range often, for those exact reasons, so much easier on everything, and as long as you arent turn sharpely it wont hurt anything to be locked up either.

Kevin