B&W turnover ball install tips
B&W turnover ball install tips
I searched several threads and didn't find much help. I thought I would summarize some helpful install information into one area.
This information is from my 98 2500 long bed SRW, but some if it will apply to all B&W products.
First off, B&W is a great quality hitch and after having one, I would recommend to anyone. BUT...there are a few things they should add to the installation instructions that would make the job much easier. My experience was much less that the "bolt up and go" others have had.
1) Before installing one piece, drop the spare tire. It's not in the instructions, but do it. It is necessary.
2) Before installing the front cross bar, use one of the bolts or a tap to chase the threads in all the holes. Go in from both sides of the bar. Flake off any loose paint around the holes. Mine had quite a bit of powercoat in the hole which made the bolts difficult to start.
3) I had trouble getting the rear cross bar in place. I found that my bed had settled a little and reduced the space between the frame and bed floor. My solution was to install the bar at an angle between the frame and bed. Make sure to place the drivers side up in the frame first, then swing the passenger up into place. I adjusted a crescent wrench to grip the lower edge and used it to rotate the bar into the proper position. I also had to use a hammer for a litte persuasion. I jacked up the powder coat, but it is way under the truck, so you can't see it.
4) If you have plastic fender guards, remove them. It makes putting on the side plates much easier. You can get the bolts started, but tightening is very difficult to do with them installed.
5) When installing the side plates, I had to use a wood block and hammer to get the cross bars squared up. I had to drive the front bar over to get it to line up. Also modify the instructions. Make the first bolt the one in the threaded hole (front bar), then do the back bar. Do the frame bolts last.
6) I had trouble getting one of the bolts to line up on the driver's side. I ended up placing a wood block (1x4) under the plate and used a bottle jack to raise it up enough to get the bolt in. This ended up raising the bed 1/8" off the frame.
7) If you have wheel liners, you'll have to extend the latch handle. I added a piece of 1/4" bolt, 2.5" long to the handle. (Pic attached). Weld it in and grind smooth. This allowed me to just make a small hole in the wheel liner, about 3/8". The hole was located 5.75" behind and 1-1/8" behind and below the front liner bolt hole. When re-installing the liner, put the handle in first. Place the liner in and lay flat over the top of the tire. Pull out the handle and place through the hole. Hold the tip of the handle and rotate the liner up into place.
This is just my experience, hopefully it helps.
Nathan
This information is from my 98 2500 long bed SRW, but some if it will apply to all B&W products.
First off, B&W is a great quality hitch and after having one, I would recommend to anyone. BUT...there are a few things they should add to the installation instructions that would make the job much easier. My experience was much less that the "bolt up and go" others have had.
1) Before installing one piece, drop the spare tire. It's not in the instructions, but do it. It is necessary.
2) Before installing the front cross bar, use one of the bolts or a tap to chase the threads in all the holes. Go in from both sides of the bar. Flake off any loose paint around the holes. Mine had quite a bit of powercoat in the hole which made the bolts difficult to start.
3) I had trouble getting the rear cross bar in place. I found that my bed had settled a little and reduced the space between the frame and bed floor. My solution was to install the bar at an angle between the frame and bed. Make sure to place the drivers side up in the frame first, then swing the passenger up into place. I adjusted a crescent wrench to grip the lower edge and used it to rotate the bar into the proper position. I also had to use a hammer for a litte persuasion. I jacked up the powder coat, but it is way under the truck, so you can't see it.
4) If you have plastic fender guards, remove them. It makes putting on the side plates much easier. You can get the bolts started, but tightening is very difficult to do with them installed.
5) When installing the side plates, I had to use a wood block and hammer to get the cross bars squared up. I had to drive the front bar over to get it to line up. Also modify the instructions. Make the first bolt the one in the threaded hole (front bar), then do the back bar. Do the frame bolts last.
6) I had trouble getting one of the bolts to line up on the driver's side. I ended up placing a wood block (1x4) under the plate and used a bottle jack to raise it up enough to get the bolt in. This ended up raising the bed 1/8" off the frame.
7) If you have wheel liners, you'll have to extend the latch handle. I added a piece of 1/4" bolt, 2.5" long to the handle. (Pic attached). Weld it in and grind smooth. This allowed me to just make a small hole in the wheel liner, about 3/8". The hole was located 5.75" behind and 1-1/8" behind and below the front liner bolt hole. When re-installing the liner, put the handle in first. Place the liner in and lay flat over the top of the tire. Pull out the handle and place through the hole. Hold the tip of the handle and rotate the liner up into place.
This is just my experience, hopefully it helps.
Nathan
I have installed about 5 of these hitches on fords and dodges. I found the best thing to do for all of them was to take the bed loose and raise it up on blocks for clearance to slide the pieces underneath. Easy one man job. Lift at fender wells and slide in blocks. It was much quicker to do this than to cut the little notch and try to wrestle the bars across.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hotdram
Towing and Hauling / RV
14
Sep 20, 2005 04:14 PM
tobyw
Towing and Hauling / RV
10
Jul 14, 2003 08:17 PM



