GSP

Just got a 25' 5th wheel trailer. Hooked to my 4x4, the trailer sets high in the front. Its not too bad , clearance at the rear truck bed rails is OK ,

I cant reverse the axles because they are already on the bottom side of the springs by design.

Will the trailer setting "not" level while towing put more wieght on the rear axle? ?? The spring shakle pivot sits angled to take up unlevelness of the trailer frame and appears to be distributing the wieght evenly...

I wish the trailer set more level though.

Thought about putting some spacer blocks between the springs and axle , like on a 4x4 lift kit. Not sure if thats a good Idea though ,as it might put more leverage/stress on the spring pearches when turning sharp.

Cutting the spring pearches off and welding in a sub frame maybe 3",maybe a cross brace, then welding back on the spring pearches would be a lot of work.

What else ??? Higher ark springs? ??

BlueRam01

I always read that its not a good idea to put spacers between the spring and axle on the trailer but there are a few members over at rv.net that have done it successfully. I think the secret is to use a solid chunk of steel or heavy wall box tubing to make the spacer. All have advised against using the cheap aluminum lifting blocks. I've contmplated this myself and if I do it I will bolt the spacer thru the spring pack to hold it securly. Of course new, longer U bolts are needed.
The best way, like you said, is to make the sub frame. For that, instead of cutting off the old spring perches, I'd just bolt the new sub frame inside them. The new frame would have new perches welded on to line up directly under the originals. The minimum lift would be the height of the old spring perches which might be 3". With either method, the trailer could be returned to stock in needed for resale.
I have a 22' Dutchmen 5er with flipped axles and the back corner of the bed has only 5" clearance on the 3500. It can get tight trying to unhook at some sloped campsites.

GSP

Thats a interesting idea , bolting a frame into the spring hole pearches. Then use some short peaches on the new sub frame. I would make some cross members on the new sub frame that bolt to the trailer frame also. Mine isnt that bad off level . I have it in my back yard and the ground isnt evenly level , I have about 8" differents from the front of the frame to the ground and the back of the frame. Might be less on a level street.

I measured the spring compression front and back and its the same with the center pivot tilted as it is.

If I tryed some steel spacer blocks id only go about 2". That might not be too bad

Rick

y22man

My 5er sits a little nose high. I will be upgrading my 15 x 225 x 75 tires to 16 x 235 x 85 tires and adjust the hitch to make it level. I think this will also have better towing char. while towing.

Whoops had the wrong number on the 3rd demention.

BlueRam01

Rick,
I forgot to mention that if the trailer is "too unlevel" (nose high) the the equalizer link can't do its job over uneven terrain such as parking lot to street and things like that when it binds up against the frame. While it is only a temporary load spike I guess it could overload the bearings, tires or rear axle. Could also bend something in the spring mounting. Its best to try to get the equalizer in the middle of its travel and still have enough clearance between the 5er and top of the bed. Most recommend 6" minimum. I have less right at the back as stated above but the rake on my 3500 is quite a bit so I've got a lot of clearance at the front part of the trailer overhang.
Below is a pic of my trailer hooked up to my 1500 which is actually 1" higher at the tailgate than my 3500 but the stance is much more level.
SteveB