2500 max towing - close to it, but not sure...
2500 max towing - close to it, but not sure...
So - I'd like to purchase a gooseneck horse trailer - with a GVWR of 9990. I have a 2500 cummings with a max towing capacity just shy of 13000#. The trailer is going to carry probably about another 3000#, maybe more. right now I only have a bumper pull - so id have to get the gooseneck hitch installed. Also - I do have the towing package that was offered to me when buying the dodge (its an '07, quad cab 4x4 short bed). I've got the manual in the dash, but i can't see what the advantage is to the tow package - and really i don't remember why we thought it was a good idea at the dealers (salesmen can be very persuasive...). I know the vehicle rating is also for a basically empty truck - so really, i'm having a hard time figuring out how much my truck will tow - two people + tack+gas+2horses probably about 3000# - so I'd be at about my limit...right?
A couple of pointer for ya:
1) Cummins - no 'G' You'll probably hear from more people about this.
2) Is the trailer 9900lb empty or is that max load+trailer? If it is 9900lb, that will put 990-1400lb on the hitch. Your truck (2500 assumed) should be rated for 9900 GVWR. Depending on options (4x or 2x, and so on), your curb weight will be ~7400lb. 9900-7400=1600lb for trailer tongue weigh.
3) What is the actual trailer weight, empty? What is the trailer GVWR?
GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating; max load the manufacturer designed the vehicle for. Vehicle being a truck, trailer, or moped
Tony
1) Cummins - no 'G' You'll probably hear from more people about this.
2) Is the trailer 9900lb empty or is that max load+trailer? If it is 9900lb, that will put 990-1400lb on the hitch. Your truck (2500 assumed) should be rated for 9900 GVWR. Depending on options (4x or 2x, and so on), your curb weight will be ~7400lb. 9900-7400=1600lb for trailer tongue weigh.
3) What is the actual trailer weight, empty? What is the trailer GVWR?
GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating; max load the manufacturer designed the vehicle for. Vehicle being a truck, trailer, or moped

Tony
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
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Never understood the whole 9900 lbs weight limit.. These trucks can handle way more than that safely.
Regardless, the truck will not even know you have anything back there. 23,000 lbs GCVW is about my limit for me. I got about 50,000 miles of safe towing in that range with not a single problem yet.
Regardless, the truck will not even know you have anything back there. 23,000 lbs GCVW is about my limit for me. I got about 50,000 miles of safe towing in that range with not a single problem yet.

As for the GVW,, dont worry about that, look on your door sticker, and it will give you a max Axle rating. I myself have crossed many scales at 4200 pounds front axle and 6200 pounds on back axle, i was checked once and they seen my tires were rated for 3415 pounds each,, so they said unless i am over 6830 pounds on my back axle i would be legal.
That's for Canada...I was assuming the OP was in the US.
That's an understatement!
As for the GVW,, dont worry about that, look on your door sticker, and it will give you a max Axle rating. I myself have crossed many scales at 4200 pounds front axle and 6200 pounds on back axle, i was checked once and they seen my tires were rated for 3415 pounds each,, so they said unless i am over 6830 pounds on my back axle i would be legal.
Tony
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Become "friends" with the scalemaster. When I buy a vehicle, of any sort, I immediately take it to a scale (usually, CAT Scale; locator online) to weigh the vehicle empty (but with full fuel; I buy on the spot) with only the driver aboard.
This gives me the accurate number versus the published shipping number. As options on a vehicle can change the weight (A/C, for one), I have found that an accurate rule-of-thumb for ANY vehicle is (again, with driver and full fuel) 450-lbs above published number (I weigh 190-lbs).
For a tow vehicle, one NEEDS empty weight to make adjustments for the hitch rigging; in other words, is my rig well-balanced once loaded and hitched? One CANNOT know this without a scale ticket.
Look to percentages: FF/RR empty, compare it to the trailer hitched FF/RR (the second ticket: empty truck and empty trailer) and see if weight distribution is correct (whatever hitch type). A bumper pull usually needs adjustments and gooseneck or fifth wheel hitches may also need work. It is also useful to check loading side-to-side once the rig is loaded as usual. A few hundred pounds shifted around can have significance in active handling.
As a truck driver I was used to weighing every load, and it is a habit now that pays dividends as I see it for personal work. If I can confirm I am within limits -- reasonable safety -- then I can move out with confidence. If I am over, then I need to change something; at the least move at a lesser speed and check tires, hubs, etc, more often.
A laser-pointer IR thermometer, premium tire gauge (and, maybe, a hubdometer) round out the package with the scale tickets to keep records. I keep these with a dedicated torque wrench (lugs tightened daily), hitch spares, gloves, flashlight, grease, warning triangles, etc, etc.
Once the trailer axles have been aligned (even a new trailer, IMO), wheels/tires balanced (shock absorbers installed if not standard) and tire pressures perfected (max sidewall pressure is NOT the best way; check with manufacturer; another reason for multiple scale tickets), road-side checks are easy.
It all with numbers and ends with numbers. Anything else is pure bull==.
Below is the number chart I use for bumper pull with a W/D hitch. Use it for any type and make adjustments.
1. TT Length, Hitch Ball Center to TT Rear Bumper:
2. TT Tongue Weight:
3. TT Hitch Center to Rear Axle Center:
4. TV wheelbase:
5. TV Rear Spring Capacity:
6. TV Rear Overhang (axle center to hitch center):
7. Length of W/D bars:
A. TV Steer Axle, Solo:
[1] TV Steer Axle, Loaded:
B. TV Drive Axle, Solo:
[1] TV Steer Axle, Loaded:
C. TV Weight Bias, FF/RR, Solo:
[1] Loaded:
D. TV Weight, Solo, Gross:
E. TV Weight, Loaded, Gross:
F. TT, Tongue Weight:
G. TT, Axle Weight (all axles):
H. TT, Axle Weight (front):
I. TT, Axle Weight (rear):
J. [TT, Axle Weight (center):]
I. TV, FF, height, solo:
II. TV, FF, height, loaded:
III. TV, RR, height, solo:
IV. TV, RR, height, loaded:
V. TT, height (fenderwell), solo:
VI. TT, height (fenderwell), loaded:
Add any others that may be useful.
This gives me the accurate number versus the published shipping number. As options on a vehicle can change the weight (A/C, for one), I have found that an accurate rule-of-thumb for ANY vehicle is (again, with driver and full fuel) 450-lbs above published number (I weigh 190-lbs).
For a tow vehicle, one NEEDS empty weight to make adjustments for the hitch rigging; in other words, is my rig well-balanced once loaded and hitched? One CANNOT know this without a scale ticket.
Look to percentages: FF/RR empty, compare it to the trailer hitched FF/RR (the second ticket: empty truck and empty trailer) and see if weight distribution is correct (whatever hitch type). A bumper pull usually needs adjustments and gooseneck or fifth wheel hitches may also need work. It is also useful to check loading side-to-side once the rig is loaded as usual. A few hundred pounds shifted around can have significance in active handling.
As a truck driver I was used to weighing every load, and it is a habit now that pays dividends as I see it for personal work. If I can confirm I am within limits -- reasonable safety -- then I can move out with confidence. If I am over, then I need to change something; at the least move at a lesser speed and check tires, hubs, etc, more often.
A laser-pointer IR thermometer, premium tire gauge (and, maybe, a hubdometer) round out the package with the scale tickets to keep records. I keep these with a dedicated torque wrench (lugs tightened daily), hitch spares, gloves, flashlight, grease, warning triangles, etc, etc.
Once the trailer axles have been aligned (even a new trailer, IMO), wheels/tires balanced (shock absorbers installed if not standard) and tire pressures perfected (max sidewall pressure is NOT the best way; check with manufacturer; another reason for multiple scale tickets), road-side checks are easy.
It all with numbers and ends with numbers. Anything else is pure bull==.
Below is the number chart I use for bumper pull with a W/D hitch. Use it for any type and make adjustments.
1. TT Length, Hitch Ball Center to TT Rear Bumper:
2. TT Tongue Weight:
3. TT Hitch Center to Rear Axle Center:
4. TV wheelbase:
5. TV Rear Spring Capacity:
6. TV Rear Overhang (axle center to hitch center):
7. Length of W/D bars:
A. TV Steer Axle, Solo:
[1] TV Steer Axle, Loaded:
B. TV Drive Axle, Solo:
[1] TV Steer Axle, Loaded:
C. TV Weight Bias, FF/RR, Solo:
[1] Loaded:
D. TV Weight, Solo, Gross:
E. TV Weight, Loaded, Gross:
F. TT, Tongue Weight:
G. TT, Axle Weight (all axles):
H. TT, Axle Weight (front):
I. TT, Axle Weight (rear):
J. [TT, Axle Weight (center):]
I. TV, FF, height, solo:
II. TV, FF, height, loaded:
III. TV, RR, height, solo:
IV. TV, RR, height, loaded:
V. TT, height (fenderwell), solo:
VI. TT, height (fenderwell), loaded:
Add any others that may be useful.
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