Looking to get a new enclosed trailer this summer. Want to use it for quads... Do not expect to have more than 7-8k of cargo on it, so probably under 15k total at all times. I am mainly looking for large size so i can build living quarters in the front 15 feet of it. Is 40' too big for a 2500 or would 36' be better? length is including 8' of neck, so 40 ft would be 32 ft of box and 8 ft of neck...

 

I pulled a 38 footer behind a 4dr powerjoke F250 about 1000 miles......wasn't too bad. I think a 2500 would be ok.

 

Youll pull it just fine

make sure u get a good brake controller tho.. gettin goin aint the problem, its stopping that can pose it...

Rick

 

I pull a 42' tripple axle GN flat topper with my 2500. I would recommend the tripple axle if its a 40 footer. Much better braking and lower pin weight.
JIM

 

My 44' gooseneck enclosed transfers 33% to pin (it is a three axle), and its curb weight is a hefty 12,000# - has RV section, generator, roof A/C. The number and placement of trailer axles will determine your pin weight. If you check your curb weight of the 2500 (full fuel, passengers, gear), and deduct that from your GVWR, you'll see what remains available. Also check your rear axle rating (I have found to be less than my tire ratings, but on a SRW, check them as well). I would think that a DRW provides a better more stable platform, but if you are within your ratings when all is said-and-done.....

 

With such a light trailer, cross wind will be your biggest enemy. I'd add a sway bar and go from there.

 

This is a 40' toyhauler, 14,500lbs of trailer, 3000lbs of pin weight (over specs 500lbs). And a GCWR of 22,500lbs (under specs 500lb)
I won't go one bit more with my 3500 SRW. So far it's a great ride, under powered a little being completely stock.
Plans for a 3500 dually by years end. You'll be maxed out no doubt.

 

I did our 40 with our old 2500 a couple of trips and you see what I have now. Way more stable. After a trip to the scales I'm glad I upgraded! 26k and some change fully loaded...

 

It has more to do with the weights and being within specification. There is no doubt it will pull it. A 3500 DRW would be a much better choice for weight & stability.
You need to get the weight ratings of the trailer and match them against your truck.
You can go over spec, but there are major liability issues if anything goes wrong.

 

Realistically, that will be too much trailer for a 2500. Especially After you build in a living quarters.

 

your truck is plenty.Like above said its Stopping power rather than Towing power.Just see how much your truck squats when you get her loaded.

 

I built a trailer just like you are posting about. You are gonna have a ton of pin weight. Unless you have the trailer custom built for your intended purpose the axles will be too far back etc...
Once you add all the tanks ,a/c/ , genset, and all the other stuff its gonna be heavy in the front. Add the fact that your quads dont weigh hardly anything and they will occupy the back half of the trailer.
If it were me I would start looking for a dually. The motor will pull it no problem. What happens once youre moving will be impossible to tell untill its too late.

 

i pull my 45' enclosed trailer with my 2500. it has the power to pull it n everything but i have already torched the transmission and cost me $7,000 n also shelled the rearend n cost me $2,000.

but yet then again i bought a 3500 n only made it 350 miles before the trans went in that also n cost me another $2,000 for that one.

make sure the truck is ready to handle all the wieght trust me i should know. i paid this all with cash no loans here.

 

You may be over posted and legal weights for the truck. The truck will pull it without any problems but if you get into an accident you will get hung for being over weight. Get a smaller trailer or get a higher GVWR truck.

 

Thats why i cant figure out why you can go to the court house and get your gvwr changed. you hear people getting it them lisenced for more and more. dunno seems dangerous