Your 2 Cents Manual or Auto ? Performance thoughts!!!!
You have an opportunity to be the only member I know who has tried all three... ATS, Goerand and DTT.
Go for it... not just to be our test bed, but because what you have tried so far has not been satisfactory.
I'd be surprised if you did not finally solve all your problems... other than possible driver abuse like 20+ passes in a row (mentioned above). Beat on anything hard enough... it will break!
RJ
Go for it... not just to be our test bed, but because what you have tried so far has not been satisfactory.
I'd be surprised if you did not finally solve all your problems... other than possible driver abuse like 20+ passes in a row (mentioned above). Beat on anything hard enough... it will break!
RJ
Originally Posted by mcoleman
You do not have the same tranny as DTT builds. Just because it has the same parts doesn't make it the same. My DTT has held over 500hp for over 50,000 miles with no issues and that includes heavy towing and 1.66 60 foot times. If you'll take a look around at what the fast trucks are running most are either using a Suncoast or a DTT for a reason.
though I am satisfied with my conversion, I took a real hit in the racing department. It's now a run down truck instead of a holeshot warrior (maybe if I spend some more $$ for the DD). I was 100% into the decision until we ordered up a billet DTT for the boss. I truly didn't know what an "engineered" trans was capable of. In the end after adding up the dimes and nickles, I spent $4500 on the conversion...though I opted for a lot of new parts. Guess what that would've bought me? Compared to the other brand I ran, Bill's runs circles around it right out of the box with no modifications. No cookie cutters from his camp. All of them application specific, right down to the TC build. It's a big pill to swallow to put 1/3 to 1/2 of what your truck's worth into a trans, but it's the single most agonizing aspect of owning one of these...so get rid of the variable and stop worrying about the next rebuild.
That said, I still only miss the auto on race day. The rest of the time I prefer the manual. It's more fun to drive and feels good behind a powerful engine.
That said, I still only miss the auto on race day. The rest of the time I prefer the manual. It's more fun to drive and feels good behind a powerful engine.
An NV4500 is rated for around 14,000 GVW. The Spicer 3053A that I will be using is rated for around 24,000 GVW. It has a deep reduction 1st gear, and overdrive similar to an NV4500. I haven't seen a HP or torque rating, but it must be quite a bit higher than an NV4500. Through my research, I found that by using the SAE bellhousing and engine adapter for the Spicer trans, I'll have room to use a flywheel and clutch from a medium duty truck. That way a beefy clutch will cost much, much less than a heavy duty aftermarket replacement for a Ram.
Keep in mind, this will be for a daily driver truck that will be used to pull an occasional trailer, and will NOT be raced. I don't care about fast shifts or truck-like shifting.
Jim
Keep in mind, this will be for a daily driver truck that will be used to pull an occasional trailer, and will NOT be raced. I don't care about fast shifts or truck-like shifting.
Jim
When still researching CTDs the biggest thing for me was to find which setup was right, well I've always had a plan to BOMB it pretty big, so I looked at the power/ price for the tranny setup in manual versus auto. The manual transmission trucks were cheaper until about 450rwhp which got into the dual disc realm ($$$$), add on a billet shaft, fix the 5th gear nut, and while you are still cheaper than a built auto at this same power this is only for the first clutch versus a "liftetime" tranny. On top of that as others have mentioned here the manual shifting trucks are a little bit slower so you add some time to your ETs that way anyways, then on top of this the ease of driving in traffic on a daily basis so I decided to get an auto. It is still in the stock (
) form, but not for much longer. I've already talked with Dave at GB about my plans in the near future and he doesn't think it'll be any issue building a tranny up for this power range (I planned around the HX35/BHT3B combo ~500rwhp but told Dave 600rwhp.).
) form, but not for much longer. I've already talked with Dave at GB about my plans in the near future and he doesn't think it'll be any issue building a tranny up for this power range (I planned around the HX35/BHT3B combo ~500rwhp but told Dave 600rwhp.).
Originally Posted by storx
anyone have any manual setups holding the power of twins and other mods?


sry....won't go any farther with this hijack.....mods can delete the images if they intrude on the post.....
Chris
wow i really like the pictures.. those are the reason i kinda wish i could seel the truck and start over on a 12valve.. haha i might still do that .. still debating.. but yeah im thinking of what i want to do the most.. i really would love the easy working of the 12valve vs the 24 Valve.... but the possability of finding a extended cab or quad cab is hard ...
got...DIESEL,
That valve cover setup is a gearheads wet dream. Very sweet. I recently had this warped idea to take a similar setup, and vent the 6 caps through the left side of the hood. What I'm talking about is a "shaker" style manifold for the 6 filter setup you have. Essentially, the hood would be cut out to close over the filter bank mounted somewhere left of center, and connected by braided stainless.
That valve cover setup is a gearheads wet dream. Very sweet. I recently had this warped idea to take a similar setup, and vent the 6 caps through the left side of the hood. What I'm talking about is a "shaker" style manifold for the 6 filter setup you have. Essentially, the hood would be cut out to close over the filter bank mounted somewhere left of center, and connected by braided stainless.
well i have a nv5600 that i swaped into my 97 dually, i spent plenty on different clutches and tranny parts. if i had it to do all over again i would have went with a auto and swaped in a big fuel pump. that is what i am did with my 98 12v, now if the converter will just show up....
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