Alright. I should be ordering my new wheels here in the next couple of weeks. I've got it narrowed down to the following wheels:

http://www.americanracing.com/wheels...ated&section=S

http://www.discountwheelwarehouse.co...ShowLarge=True

I'm wanting to get a 16x10 if possible. I'm gonna run a skyjacker 4.5" lift on my truck very shortly. The tires I'm gonna be running are my current Nitto Terra Grappler's in size 315/75/16.

The questions I have for yall are what size bolt pattern do I need to order? What kind of back spacing/offset do I need to get so the tires don't rub. I can deal with minor rubbing. If I can't do 16x10's, then some 16x9's will work. I just want something wider than the factory 16x8's. I also want the wheels to stick out some. Thanks for the help yall.

P.S. The truck is an 01 4x4.

 

Ok. Just talked to 4 wheel parts in Houston. $1583.82 for a Skyjacker 4.5" stage 1 lift with shocks, and 4 of the Atlas wheels in size 16x10. I can get the Mickey's and lift for $1561.67. I'm doing the install myself. So what do yall think? Good deal?

 

Blue,

Just my opinion, but I like the eagles better. I have had problems with American racing wheels being out of round in the past. Your bolt pattern is 8 X 6.5"

 

Thanks Mcmopar. I was actually looking at these but everyone I showed them to said they were to shiny and bling blingy (is that even a word?).

 

I like those?!?!? That's scarry, I'm an old school guy, I like the mickey thompson Challenger wheels.

 

Why not just lower it and put spinners on it?

That deal from 4WPW sounds pretty good. That's not much more than what I paid for mine 4 years ago.

Look again at your stock wheels. My stockers were 16X6.5. I'm running an 8" wheel with my 37's. Just remember that the more offset you have, the more crap gets splattered all over the sides of your truck. Unless you put on those goofy mudflap thingies.

Look in my photo album, you'll see how much the tires stick out with 8" rims.

 

BB,

FWIW, Ebay normally lists sets of those AE 0589 style wheels for $320-425. There's a guy in Texas that normally sells them, not sure if he'd let you pick them up without paying shipping on them.

brandon.

 

These ebay auctions might interst you. I have also been on a wheel search, so I knew exactly what to type into ebay's search engine.

This is just like the AR atlas, but is made by Eagle....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7915014099

This is the other Eagle you were looking at. It's not the right width, but you might be able to contact the guy and see if he has it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=43957

I'm not affiliated, just trying to help.

 

You didn't happen to use the search parameter, "Gay Freakin' Truck", did you? LOL

 

Out of your first two wheel choices, I'd go with the Eagles if you plan on going offroad at all.

The American Racing are a bit blingy for an offroad truck.
The Helomax's are just on the bling meter (IMHO)
Both would be fine for a pavement pounder, but once you get offroad, they will lose their shinyness very, very quickly.

My Welds didn't make it through one winter with their finish intact.
Offroading puts little scratches in them which is then attacked by the salt during the winter, and now look like poopoo up close.
I know, no winter in Texas, but you still would get the scratches offroad.

If you could get them with a 5.5 inch backspace, that would be optimum, and kill most rub problems.
More than likely, they're only available with 4.5" as the biggest option.

Yes, our bolt pattern is 8 X 6.5"

That looks like a pretty god price for the lift and rims.


phox

 

IMHO - the Eagle's are a pretty cheap wheel as far as finish and durability are concerned.

I bought a set for my Toyota a couple of years ago as a tire/wheel combo from 4 Wheel Parts - and 2 mild TN winters later the clear coat was already looking less than nice.

And I agree with the other comments - 10" is awful wide, I would suggest 8".

 

Well, I don't off road much at all. Only to tow people out(got tired of beating the crap out of mine and washing it). I'm going with the 10" wheel. Saw a truck today with an 8" and it wasn't big enough. I still don't know which wheel I'm going with. I'll let yall know by the end of the week (get paid friday ) what I'm going with. Thanks for the help yall.

 

For Sale item removed i will put them in the classifieds here when i borrow a digital camera from a friend.

 

BB:

As other stated, you need a 8-on-6.5" bolt circle wheel.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN SELECTING WHEELS!!

It's NOT just about something that will bolt up! It has to be the RIGHT wheel.

The OEM Dodge wheel is an offbeat size. If you have the OEM 16x8s, then they have +20mm offset and 4.5" of backspace.

Offset determine how the load of the wheel (indeed, the whole vehicle) is distributed over the wheelbearings. It is the distance from the exact center of the wheel's width to the the back of the mounting flange (that goes against the hub).

The POSITIVE offset means that the flange of the wheel is outboard of the wheel's centerline. So a +20mm means that there are 20mm between the center of the wheel and the the hub.

A negative value means the hub is inboard of the wheels cernterline. It's counterintuitive, but positive offset wheels look"sucked in" under the vehicle (and appear to have a shallow dish to them), while NEGATIVE offset wheels tend to stick out from the vehicle and appear to have a deeper dish when you look at them.

BACKSPACING is determined by the offset and wheel width. Ideally, the offset stays the same if you go to a wider wheel, and only the backspace changes. If you change wheel widths, backspace OR offset MUST change.

You should try to keep offset the same, because your bearings and everything are designed to support the weight of the truck based on that offset. Radically changing the offset will change how the bearings are loaded-- thus, you'll chew through bearings if you load your truck or use it hard.

The other thing is this: it's hard to get a 10" wide wheel NOT to rub with the proper offset. In order to get it to not rub on the control arms, you need to use the "wrong" wheel (with respect to your wheel bearings) with more negative offset. But you might end up just rubbing on the wheelwell liner now instead of the control arms!

Please read this about wheels:

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...1&postcount=15


I'd personally keep the lift mild, and stick with 9" or narrower wheels of the proper (or close) offset. It's just less headaches and more friendly on a daily basis.

Justin

 

Off set will not hurt your bearings. Been running 7000 and 8000 pounds on a 3/4 ton rear for a couple of years. the whole outside wheel is hung outside of the bearing with a dual conversion kit.