My stepson is looking at a 1999 dually with 154k miles. looks pretty clean and runs good with no blowby. i heard this might be one of the years with weak blocks, is this true?

 

It usually stamped 53 on the block. 1998 to 2001 model year

or go here: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t296814.html

 

Yeah, and I believe it was on the pass. side.

 

I believe it was actually from 98.5 thru '01. I believe the number is found on the driver side under the injection pump. Not all of the blocks were "53" blocks but most were. Do a search on it. There's a couple good links out there.

 

It is actually on both sides of the block.

Driver side

I don't seem to have a picture of the passener side though. I remember painting it red as well though.

 

186K miles and running strong on a 53 block.

Keep it well maintained
Keep it stock
Keep it daily driven
....all this equals years and years of maintenance free driving.

Although my 2000 is a "53", had it for 12 years and it has never failed to start. Although I am **** about replacing items before they are due.

 

The search and Google are your friends.
http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins...NewInformation

 

[QUOTE=New2Diesel;3081359]186K miles and running strong on a 53 block.

Same here 215k miles on a non-stock motor....knock knock knock on wood.
Not all 53 blocks are bad, just those thin wall blocks cast in Brazil.

 

Stock doesn't really affect it. Mine has been to 700hp and its still kicking.

All 53's are cast in Brazil.

 

Finding a non 53 block for an late 98 12V block or 24V VP block is pretty rare. Most of the non 53 blocks I've seen are in 02 trucks.

Chances are if the block hasn't cracked by now, chances are it probably wont.

Seen a few CR blocks with hairline cracks in the cylinder but no one talks about that issue 6.7L blocks also have issues cracking.

 

Not all 53 blocks are bad. If you go to the web site for loc n stitch they have a lot of info on the 53 block. The cracking happens in blocks that the sand core shifts in the mold when they are poured full of metal. Not all of them shift but it happened enough to be a problem. When the core would shift it would make the block thiner than it should have been along the water jacket wall under the exhaust manifold. For those who are peranoid about it loc n stitch makes a bracket to strengthen that area of the block that you can install even if you do not have any cracks yet. I have a late1997 12 valve that has a 53 block but I have had no problems so far but my milage is only at 142k.

 

Drive it. If it cracks, it isn't the end of the world, nor is it any immediate danger. Throw in some stop leak and get a lockstitch kit coming. Install it. Change your coolant. Fer sure don't lose any sleep.

 

You must not go anywhere.
What is a 53 block?

 

Just for grins and giggles, why don't you actually read the thread.