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Voltage Drop / Lights Dimming on Cold Start

Old 04-15-2007, 04:09 PM
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06 and on down uses 120 amp relay's (2) , 07 uses only one relay 200 amp and one element, the heater grid on the 07 will cycle while driving down the road at certian times to clean the heater element from any build up from the EGR flow.
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Old 07-28-2007, 06:07 PM
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For what it's worth ~ Parts Catalog, 6BT5.9 Chrysler, 250/350 1993 Pickups. (Bulletin No. 3672006-00 printed 6/92).

Page two ~

Air Intake Heater: Option AH9020 / Group No. 13.06

Part Number 3913348

Heater, air Intake (Pad Type)
Air Heating Element Provided: Yes
Engine Aspiration: T/CAC
Element Type: Grid
M22 Either Boss Included: No
Element Voltage: 12VDC
Element Amperage: 220 AMP
Electrical terminal is oriented toward the rear on 6B and toward the front on 4B engines.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:53 PM
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I wrote about this before,long time ago, but will let you guys know what I have done with the grid heater, did it when I bought the truck new in 2001, you put a oil pressure sending unit into the top of the oil filter housing,screws right in, you need the kind that lets current thru when there is no pressure and cuts off as soon as the oil pressure comes up, its the kind of oil pressure sending unit that is used to send a signal to the so called idiot light in the dash of years ago. Just wire the trigger wires that go o the control solinoids (there the ground wires on the solinoids) pull them off, tie them together along with a wire over to the oil pressure switch, with motor shut down current will flow thru pressure switch when you turn key on,as soon as motor starts oil pressure in the switch cuts off and henceforth shuts the grid heater off, never to come on again til you come to start again, once these diesels are running you do not need any grid heaters running. I have started mine at 25 below zero, not plugged in, once running it will stay running.With this mod everything works as before except the grid heaters will not cycle while engine is running.
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Old 11-10-2007, 11:13 AM
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Dimming lights on a cold start normal. First time I noticed it I was freaked as well.
As mention by the other members when the engine is cold the intake heaters kick in and cycle till normal operating temp.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:12 PM
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I have a 91 w350 and the intake heater wont work the solenoid are good I think it is in the wireing or timer
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:06 PM
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Ya know, mine does this all the time, I thought my batteries were going bad which one was and I replaced them both and still yet it happens. Is it my alternator? I know I need new battery cables they're terrible.

When I'm just randomly sitting idling my voltage will drop and then catch itself back up, all the time? I haven't really looked into it, yet.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:54 PM
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yep, that voltage drop is common place here, and yes when starting in -35 c ic can really drop the voltage 16 or so down to about 12, still better than brothers truck on the same day, when the glowplugs cycle on his 94 6.5 chev it can actually stall (when the voltage drops below 12 v the fuel shutoff solenoid will close) yeah one heater is def better than 8 glow plugs.
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:54 AM
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Thank you that answers a question I have long searched for.
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:26 PM
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thanks, got on here to look and that is one of the things that worried me.
I noticed it just the other day. 2002 it is new to me!
thanks again.
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by KATOOM View Post
Just thought I'd mention that I dont think GM or Ford uses glow plugs. You usually see glow plugs in "indirect injection" diesels as where "direct injection" diesels use heater grids. I believe GM and Ford are the direct injection design. Also for those that have noticed their grids cycling everytime they start up in cold temps, even if the engine is at normal operating temperature, can get a device that overides this feature to save the grids from unecessary cycling when the engine is warm.
YES ford and gm still use glow plugs i promise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:42 PM
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Being new to diesels(my first) this freaked me out as well.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:41 PM
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:04 AM
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Also for those that have noticed their grids cycling every time they start up in cold temps, even if the engine is at normal operating temperature, can get a device that overrides this feature to save the grids from unnecessary cycling when the engine is warm.
Yes!!!! I have been wondering about this cold weather observation. I too thought it was not cycling off as one would expect. They definitely draw the juice. I figured it was the heaters but couldn't understand why it would continue to cycle once running (still don't, but they must have their reasons).

What device?

Thanks, Dave
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Old 05-10-2014, 12:27 PM
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The system they use has been working fine for this long, why mess with success.
After all, we could have glow plugs. (and all the problems that go along with that)
The heaters stop cycling after you drive to ~25 mph.
Also Cummins doesn't recommend extended periods of time idling at cold temps.
A fast idle has been incorporated into the newer model years.
This recommendation in not intended to apply during warm up, but for extended idle while say eating or sleeping in cold weather. I have ALWAYS warmed up any engine (especially desiel) a few minutes (typically 15 or 20) before rolling at all, full warm before working it. Leftover from farming in the 60/70s as well as OTR in the mid 80s with a 350 mack. One always set the idle up to ~1200... to keep from washing the cylinder walls on extended. Is there is no way to up the idle rpm on these 01 Cummins during extended idle? Might have to rig a manual control.

With the Mack actually, once I left out for a CA run (5000 mile RT) I only shut down once in CA for 15 minutes to check fluids (NO slip seat, I knew it didn't take anything, just looking for when it might start too)... otherwise it was running 24/7. Learned to leave it run when his NON maintained battery wouldn't start it in a "wide spot" out in the middle of nowhere... last time that ever happened. If it was running when I went to sleep it likely would be still when I woke up. Did the first three years and 600k this way on a 85 Mack MH 613 350 9spd. Actually, it was turned to 420/2150, and when rolling across the western states it was always throttle locked at 100% WOT against the gov... (except in CA, also no 9th gear in CA). It would run with most 425 Cats...out pull many. I understand this engine went to the million mile mark before its first rebuild. Pulling at 100% anytime it wasn't downhill and even then, depending on conditions, we might work up a "run" for the hill other other side, 90+ mph/2250 2300 at the bottom. Yea, we'd run'em back then... for all they had. "puff limiters" disconnected, 79k+ all the time (100k sometimes, but not where there were scales). And they still run a true million miles before a rebuild so long as one NEVER let em run HOT or too long on a oil change. Tough engines!

For those not acquainted with the way is used to be... Usually sleep time was only 4 hours... rest was rolling... which is how one did 200k miles a year solo. 4.5 day 5000 mile RT CA runs (sometimes back to back), 71 hour C-C runs, etc. Before CDL! I would not do team. No drugs... just mass quantities of caffeine and nicotine. One did age though... roughly 3:1... I aged 10 years in 3. But... there was 30 people ready to take my job if I didn't run hard. Just the way it was in the 80s. I would have liked more sleep time, but I doubt I could run with today's rules and tattle-tales... sat systems etc. Nobody's else's business how I went for point A to point B and what routes. My business when I slept, ate, fueled etc., etc. Wire cutters would come out of the tool box! No doubt! I likely wouldn't be employed long... OK with me.

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Old 07-01-2014, 06:37 PM
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This heating,,,cycle during wintertime seems to blow headlightbulbs. H4 bulbs are cheap to buy, but it pisses me off to change them in the wintertime cause its dark all the time. I live in northern europe.
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