Valve Spring Upgrade
Just wondering what it takes to replace the valve springs and upgrade them to something that has holding strength above 60 lbs. Since I just downloaded the new beta software for the smarty it pulls and revs all the way to 4000rpm if I let it. Of course I don't plan on doing it but I thought if I upgraded those springs I'd be alright any thoughts or help??
Contact member RowJ, he may be able to help you. He did his own with the head on the truck.
I wouldn't tach past 3100 without the stronger valve springs. You may float a valve.
I have Don M's Sportsmans Springs, but I had a performance head built for me. They really seemed to pull all of my mods together, especially seemed to get the most out of my cam.
I wouldn't tach past 3100 without the stronger valve springs. You may float a valve.
I have Don M's Sportsmans Springs, but I had a performance head built for me. They really seemed to pull all of my mods together, especially seemed to get the most out of my cam.
Just wondering what it takes to replace the valve springs and upgrade them to something that has holding strength above 60 lbs. Since I just downloaded the new beta software for the smarty it pulls and revs all the way to 4000rpm if I let it. Of course I don't plan on doing it but I thought if I upgraded those springs I'd be alright any thoughts or help??
. But if it is there you will. Get the springs bring each cylinder to the top as you go. Compress the springs take out the keepers and drop the valve on top of the piston. change out the spring put the keepers in , go to the next cylinder when you bring it to the top. On a side note I never plan on boosting above 20 lbs
until I pass the moron in the fast lane. Really I did not mean to boost 34 lbs
Of course you don't plan on going above 4g
. But if it is there you will. Get the springs bring each cylinder to the top as you go. Compress the springs take out the keepers and drop the valve on top of the piston. change out the spring put the keepers in , go to the next cylinder when you bring it to the top. On a side note I never plan on boosting above 20 lbs
until I pass the moron in the fast lane. Really I did not mean to boost 34 lbs
. But if it is there you will. Get the springs bring each cylinder to the top as you go. Compress the springs take out the keepers and drop the valve on top of the piston. change out the spring put the keepers in , go to the next cylinder when you bring it to the top. On a side note I never plan on boosting above 20 lbs
until I pass the moron in the fast lane. Really I did not mean to boost 34 lbs
Shoot, LIFE BEGINS AT 50 PSI AND ABOVE 4000 RPMS.
There is a tool you will want- it compresses four springs at once and will make the job a lot simpler.
Does anyone know of a use for 24v springs? Would they be an upgrade for a 12v or anything?
Yeah my f-1's springs are keeping things together at 3500+ rpms so far. I did the cam at the same time so can't comment on performance of the springs by themselves.
Does anyone know of a use for 24v springs? Would they be an upgrade for a 12v or anything?
Yeah my f-1's springs are keeping things together at 3500+ rpms so far. I did the cam at the same time so can't comment on performance of the springs by themselves.
Anyone know the specs on the stock springs? I'd like to find an alternative to the insane prices of the stuff labeled "Diesel". I have heard of some people on CompetitionDiesel that have used these Crower springs with some good luck. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+
Eric
Eric
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