cumminsman02

i need expert help here!! i am twinning the ol girl and need to know how to run that oil return line for the bottom charger!! i know where the plug is but need to know how to get it out or drill or whatever, just need help!!! i also need to find out soon since the truck is down until i can get it fixed!! any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! shoot me a PM or whatever if you want me to keep it a secret!!!!!

thanks
big D

gunracer1

i am no expert, but if you hit it with a punch and knocked a hole in it, you could thread a screw in it and pop it out. or punch a hole in it and pry it out with a screw driver.

Mike Holmen

Buddy, there is a hole already there. You just have to push out the plug. Its in the block behind the motor mount. I used a punch and a magnet. Be careful not to drop the plug into the pan. Then you have to lift the motor and drop the pan. The HT3b and the 40 works great, I'm supprised on how well these big turbos spool. Mine works as well as my 35Y did or even better. The EGT's are down from the 35Y. When the 3B starts to fires, man shes a sweet ride. You can feel the in your seat of your pants. At 30lbs of boost, my truck smokes less and has more power than my 35 did.

signature600

Don't mean to hijack, but anyone ever added a second drain to one that didn't have the factory drain...I need to do mine in a short while, and need to know if there is a special way or trick or fitting I can use.

Thanks A Bunch,
Chris

ratsun

Contact Piers he knows (he told me but I forgot, sorry)

joefarmer

Gently tap the plug that's in there partially sideways and use a needle nose pliers to pull it out.

brandon.

Ponci

Use a slide hammer with a seal extracter on the end of it. For ones that dont have a drain you cut a hole in the pan close to the upper rail but not to close. Then you build a weld in bung with a eyebrow to deflect the oil off the crank towards the sump. Weld and cool to prevent a gasket failure. Some people refer to it as stitch welding. Hope this info helps.............Brad

signature600

Thanks Ponci! That helps a bunch!

Chris

cumminsman02

ponci gave great advice signature600. i have built a set for my 12 valver and that is what i had to do. be sure to drain the oil pan a couple times so no metal shavings get in the oil. this time around will be much easier thanks to the extra oil return bung!! thanks everybody!!

signature600

Did you guys drop the pan at all when you did this?? Can you?

Chris

JDGnut

600... you can also take the fractory pipe out.. (out of the block) and weld on another fitting to the existing piece.. and make a Y... This will depend on how low you mount the big charger..
You will need a little more angle than this one.. (don't mind the bubble gum welding, it was a late night..) This was for an early engine without the double bung holes..
Bryan

rharveysr

Drilled,welded and cleaned out the pan for my oil drain return for my twins..

I sure wish mine was a storm block so I didnt have to drill the pan..

Rick

SmokinFive9 4x4

Where are you guys getting the extra feed line? Right off the top of the OF mount? Or just "y'ing" the OE line to two?

JDGnut, won't that Y restrict the flow? I've always heard that the return oil's quite foamy and hence the big line on the bottom to keep flow going.

Ponci

You can do the oil drain install on the engine. Take your time and be carefull. Stitch and cool the pan rail. Have faith you can do it.

joefarmer

The extra feed line is from the extra 1/8" NPT port on the oil filter housing. The stock fitting has a restriction in the oil line (~3/32") so I don't think the line sees the full oil pressure.

I don't think the Y return is a good idea. I don't have anything that proves it, but I suspect the stock return line is just big enough to support a single charger. I do know high restriction in the return line leads to premature turbo seal failure.


brnadon.